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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Alternator Squeal

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Old Oct 16, 2017 | 12:27 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by svrex
To run the ignition I pulled from the bat with a fused wire to a relay. To trip the relay I poked around the wiring till I found a hot with the ignition in the accessory/on position. The wire I tapped into holds a charge for about 10-15 seconds after I turn the ignition switch off.
Anybody got an 11-foot pole handy?

You may want to consider a different circuit to energize that relay coil. I'm scratching my head, trying to think what circuit stays energized, but only for 15 seconds, after turning off the key. Maybe some sort of timer for an emissions-related vent, or something like that? Maybe some weird feedback at shutdown (radio memory?) that's just strong enough to briefly continue holding the relay coil?

Whatever the unknown source is, your ignition power is supplied downstream of this unusual behavior. I'd suggest looking around a little more for a circuit that's a direct on/off. Also, you don't need the ignition energized in the ACC position. As currently wired, it's possible the failure of some mystery component could shut off your ignition.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2017 | 12:35 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by FuzzFace2
I know what it is and have used it on autos, with out much luck, but lever on industrial belt drives & sheaves.
If it started to squeal tighten it up or replace the belts and yes belts some up to 5 belts.
Thing was you had to get a matched set or better yet a belt mat with the number of belts needed for then AHU/fan.


We also went to cogged belts & drives to cut down on slippage as it was wasted energy. Some of the bigger AHU had variable speed drives to cut back the RPM of the motor/fan to save energy.
This was in a hospital.
Dave ----
You can't always crank up the tension, especially in conveyor systems and there is price top pay with high tensions in reduced bearing life. Especially in today's elec motors where they seem to use the smallest bearings they can get away with.
Sometimes you just need more stick.

Cog belts are great I love em for those applications no power loss increased efficiency longer sheave and belt life, but if they are in units where noise is a consideration (IE air handling units in an arena) they are not the quietest unfortunately..
The VFD's are good for mitigating starting torque but don't help if you have varying loads during operation.

Belt dressings still have a place and it never hurts to give it try. It is usually a last resort before replacing the belt. As no one likes to garbage a perfectly good belt.
I have a can that has to be every day of 40 years old, so gives you an idea how much it get's used but every so often you encounter that one belt where belt dressing it just what the doctor ordered. So never hurts to give it a shot.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2017 | 12:59 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by matthewq4b
every so often you encounter that one belt where belt dressing it just what the doctor ordered. So never hurts to give it a shot.
Unless while spraying, you get your finger caught between a running belt and pulley. Then it does hurt. Quite literally...
 
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Old Oct 16, 2017 | 01:02 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by kr98664
Unless while spraying, you get your finger caught between a running belt and pulley. Then it does hurt. Quite literally...
Or the bare knuckle twang off the rad fan
 
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Old Oct 16, 2017 | 08:01 PM
  #20  
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In a pinch I have used that 3M spray adhesive on a belt as it was turning, and it seemed to work like the belt dressing.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2017 | 12:47 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
In a pinch I have used that 3M spray adhesive on a belt as it was turning, and it seemed to work like the belt dressing.


That's a great tip if you do not have a can of belt dressing around.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2017 | 05:48 AM
  #22  
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People, the water spritz is a diagnostic tool. I know it is strange to some, but when applied the belt stops the noise (if it is indeed the belt and not component), although momentarily, it indicates a system failure which needs to be corrected/repaired not covered up.

With your logic it would just be more simple to turn the radio up and smack the old lady and listen to her b!tch.

Belt dressing...
 
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Old Oct 17, 2017 | 08:28 AM
  #23  
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Thanks so much everyone!

I tried the belt dressing but no dice
I bought a goodyear belt that was about an inch shorter and that did the trick.
Lesson learned! No more cheap autozone belts!
Now to find a new water pump/fan pulley.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2017 | 03:57 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by KULTULZ
People, the water spritz is a diagnostic tool. I know it is strange to some, but when applied the belt stops the noise (if it is indeed the belt and not component), although momentarily, it indicates a system failure which needs to be corrected/repaired not covered up.

With your logic it would just be more simple to turn the radio up and smack the old lady and listen to her b!tch.

Belt dressing...
And there ya go showing first hand you have zero knowledge of what belts dressings actually do. They do not just cover the issue up.


Belt dressing do exactly what they say do, they dress the surface of the belt, and do so by cleaning the mating surface and helping to keep the belts supple to prevent dry out and slip..


All belts slip to a certain degree unless they have positive engagement.
Atmospheric contaminants get deposited on all drive belts and get packed on to the friction surface of the belt, this builds up a barrier between the belt and sheave reducing the frictional torque capacity between the sheave and the belt and increases slip. This is a very common issue on conveyor systems.
Belt dressings dissolve this build up and keep the belts supple, helping to restore the frictional torque capacity between the belt and the sheave.
With canvas drive belts the application of belt dressings is part of the regular scheduled maintenance to prevent that exact problem.

They DO NOT just cover up the issue.

If adjusting the tension or a belt dressing will not fix the problem then either the belt is faulty and needs to be replaced or the sheaves are worn not allowing for full engagement of the mating surfaces.
Sheave inspection should be done when ever tension is adjusted.

Flat serpentine belts help mitigate these issues by having a larger contact area between the belt and sheaves over standard V belts.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2018 | 11:24 PM
  #25  
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Has this been resolved? After reading in another thread, I unplugged my alternator and for the first time in 5+ years my van started without even a chirp. Seems my upgraded alternator is set to kick in at full power upon startup, so even with super tight brand new premium belts it squeals for the first 20 second after starting up, even when warmed up. I'm working on either a delay or kill switch solution to the alternator so my neighbors dont have to hear the screech each time I start it up, but if you have this problem and can't figure out what it is (like me- 2 new alternators, new pulley, AND 3 new premium belts...) just unplug the alternator and start it up and see what happens.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2018 | 08:35 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by WalterRoad
Has this been resolved? After reading in another thread, I unplugged my alternator and for the first time in 5+ years my van started without even a chirp. Seems my upgraded alternator is set to kick in at full power upon startup, so even with super tight brand new premium belts it squeals for the first 20 second after starting up, even when warmed up. I'm working on either a delay or kill switch solution to the alternator so my neighbors dont have to hear the screech each time I start it up, but if you have this problem and can't figure out what it is (like me- 2 new alternators, new pulley, AND 3 new premium belts...) just unplug the alternator and start it up and see what happens.
What ALT are you running?
If the 3G look into the soft start regulator for it. Other say it has worked for them.
You can do a search in here for it too. I also seen a post over in one of the older truck area as they were having the same thing.
One guy did set up a delay timer the part was $35 or so and he had how he wired it up also.
Dave ----
 
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