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My engine sounds like when you turn it over, it sounds normal but then quickly gets quiter and faster like it losses compression. I was only listing thru the phone since I am outta town and havent got home yet to investigate. But it sounds like when you turn it over it starts out with compression but then loses it. Any thought?????
I should have mentioned to ask a seller who their engine supplier is and research their (engine re-builder) reputation. Might be good, might be not so good.
My engine sounds like when you turn it over, it sounds normal but then quickly gets quiter and faster like it losses compression. I was only listing thru the phone since I am outta town and havent got home yet to investigate.
But it sounds like when you turn it over it starts out with compression but then loses it. Any thought?????
That one is kind of hard to pull out.
Maybe when you get back to the house, describe what you find.
Appears as though timing chain broke, no spark and when I turn engine over rotor does not turn. I did attempt to turn rotor manually just to ensure the shaft on distributor isn't broken.
I do want to replace the GM distributor someone has put on it, any recommendations? I do not want to go with the old points type so it needs to be electronic ignition. Not sure what the best options are.
What you have is an HEI distributor. Requires one wire @12VDC to run. People like 'em 'cause they eliminate a spaghetti amount of wiring in the engine bay.
If you're going to switch to a DSII, you'll need a coil and associated wiring, an ICM and associated wiring and a wiring change-over to run a ballast resistor wire or a MoPar type ballast resistor from the ignition switch to the coil. Running 12VDC to an OEM coil will fry the little puppy as it requires ~ 9VDC in RUN.
Presupposing the PO didn't hack all the DSII wiring/ICM wiring/coil/ballast resistor wiring to bits, consider yerself lucky.
As far as a broken timing chain - highly unlikely as you'd hear a bunch of clatter whist turning her over.
Mebbe the distributor gear is toast....not sure if the HEI gear has a shear pin in the gear but the DSI, DSII, etc, does.
As far as a broken timing chain - highly unlikely as you'd hear a bunch of clatter whist turning her over.
Mebbe the distributor gear is toast....not sure if the HEI gear has a shear pin in the gear but the DSI, DSII, etc, does.[/QUOTE]
I tried to turn the rotor to see if the distributor was broke and it doesn't free spin, feels normal. I took it to shop this morning as I don't have time to do it. I did not hear anything abnormal when turning it over. Cam could be broke as well I guess but that would highly unlikely. As soon as distributor gets pulled out we will know if it's okay. There is no clatter when turning it over but I suppose it possible to be broke and laying outta the way. Also, wonder if maybe lock pin for timing gears could have sheared off.
That's called a Woodruff key.....and it would take quite a bit of poop to shear that guy in two on the crank snout.....but, stranger things have happened. If the OEM cam gear was still in play, it could have gone south as the teeth on it are plastic...
Regarding the distributor, I recently purchased a 74 F100 with the same type of “HEI” distributor. As the others said, it is a GM style distributor. I think they are popular because they only require a single wire 12 Volt supply that is switched with the key. Everything else (coil, ignition module, etc.) is contained in the distributor and cap. I found that there are quite a few manufacturers with a wide range of prices. I never determined which brand mine was, but it failed after just a few thousand miles. I’m guessing that some are of better quality than others. With some help from the forum, I went back to the original system. FWIW, I used a new Spectra distributor, Standard Motor coil, and Airtexwells module. Everything works well now, and I have the stock look.
Wow. The GM hei is a freaking marvel of simplicity. Get yourself an adjustable vac advance and a mechanical advance kit, follow the instructions, and never look back.
Dura spark? Really? Go ahead and search dura spark or duraspark @ the top right corner of this page, do some reading, and then make your decision.
I've got IH Dodge Chevy Ford and an AMC Jeep in my yard with plates and insurance. Just because it says Ford on it, it isn't necessarily better. There is a reason guys put these distributors on Fords, and 9" diffs under Chevy's.