I think my truck is finally starting to show her age. Got in today and the fuel gauge is erratic the speedometer doesn't work, trip and odometer don't work, the coolant temp gage stays on cold, and the tach doesn't work.

 

Cool... Join the crowd 😁....

Has it been raining it must rained?

 

No rain here but I've had the dash apart a few times. Though it was something I may have done. I used the pinpoint test for the coolant temp gauge that I found on here, and it led to "replace cluster" put it all back together and now it works. I guess a cluster replacement is in my near future

 

I bought my replacement off eBay, just try and stay close to your year. I adjusted the mileage but only the far left 2 numbers, didn't want to risk breaking that PITA little worm gear.

 

i am going to buy a remanufactured one. I figured if mine is broken after 18 years, then any other 18 year old cluster could have the same problems. I would rather have one with all new motors, lights, circuitry, and have the mileage matching.

 

This may be your problem (s)

NO GAUGE ACTIVITY 7.3L:

Trucks with the 4R100 Automatic Transmissions (1999.5 -2003 MY) which present with a "No Gauge Activity". Circuits: "N250, C212, 20140, 2135, 281a, and 220c" and Fuse #45 in the Under Dash Fuse Panel.

Most Probable Cause: Wire chafing in the steering column coast clutch on/off switch (Overdrive).

Repair: Remove Steering Shaft Decorative Coverings and inspect the wiring for chafing. Covering any exposed wiring with a suitable insulating product to prevent a reoccurrence.

 

I checked the wiring there, and all was good. there were no bare spots in the wire, and the overdrive light had full function. There were no blown fuses. I am going to replace the shift lever anyways because it is taped together and it is irritating, but I couldn't find any electrical problems in that area. My tachometer doesn't work either, and I think that there are bigger problems with the gauges than just being old. When I got the truck it had a rebuilt title because a tree fell on it. the only damage the tree did was a small dent on drivers fender, broken windshield, and a small crack in the dash where the tree landed. The needle for the tach was laying in the cluster when I got it and I put it back together, but you can still hear something rattling in the cluster when you take it out. The tach worked intermittently for a while, and now it doesn't work at all. I didn't drive it after I put it back together last night, so i am not sure if the speedo works now, but I know the coolant temperature was working .

 

Agree...these things are getting old.
My truck won't hold the RKE program for more than a couple of days. Getting a bit frustrated. 3 of the 4 door locks solenoids are so weak they don't do any good. I have a replacement set of solenoids....I guess it's time to replace those things.
I was hoping to make it to 400k miles before issue like this would crop up....missed it by a few thousand....

Starting to see a oil drip from my oil cooler now that the weather cooling down. I think I am going to have to rebuild that thing before the winter comes. Hate to say it but it might be time for a new truck......will try and keep this one on the road for a bit longer, just hope it doesn't need too much more work.

 

Sounds like my truck. My e99 has a remote key fob, but no number pad on the door. It will always lock the doors, from pretty much any distance if I can see the truck, but will only unlock if the door has been opened recently, and only from about 20 feet away. Haven't looked into it at all, but I've been thinking about it recently as the driver's door solenoid will lock the door, but won't unlock it. I figure it something simply slipping on the control rod.

 

My solenoids are bad too. Won't lock or unlock. I'm stuck with locking the doors with a key like a barbarian! Haha. I want to put a million miles on her...we will see what happens

 

I replaced my door actuators when I first bought the truck with some from Amazon, they work great and no more being a barbarian.

 

Was this fairly easy to do? Any idea what the part number might be? Mine are shot. My locks will go halfway up, but not lock at all. I am guessing this means solenoids? I have been avoiding this because I hate taking off door panels! LOL

 

First one was a bit of a pain in the ***, but second one was half the time. It took a couple of hours if I remember correctly, but I could do both in about 45 minutes if I had to do them again. Not solenoids, your actuators are tired and worn.

Part numbers and videos on 1A Auto at the link below.

https://www.1aauto.com/door-lock-act...waAkwAEALw_wcB

It is very nice to have working power door locks again. When I replaced mine, I learned of a very low cost trick where you can take apart the OEM actuators and modify them a bit to work. I said to hell with it and spent the small amount of money it cost for new/aftermarket ones and they have been great for 3 years.

 

Replaced mine a couple of years ago... wasn't hard after you learned how to do it. Still need to do driver's door, now that I found the key fob again.

Need to remove my dash and check it out.... can barely see anything its become so dim at night. Maybe I'll just send off to get it done right.

These old trucks are as bad as us old men.... something always wearing out with age...

 

Yes. Have always recommended this to everyone.

You can get a set of 4 chinese actuators for less than $20, and install them in an easy to get to location. Leave the factory one there.

Did this on old green 12 years ago.