Damn dude! Couldn't wait till the weekend?! Or was it that you were going somewhere this weekend...that's right. You had to. Well done!

 

Alright, here we go. I tried to take a lot of pictures and document the process as best as I can for future use. I started around 2:40pm Wednesday afternoon and finished at 2:30am Thursday morning. Yes I know I am crazy for working that late but I needed the truck for work today and I have to heard to Chicago early Friday morning so time was a factor in this. I started by pulling in the truck, and starting the draining process as I set up shop lights and tools.

Due to time getting late really fast I took most pictures on disassembly and fell off a little with reassembly. Will snap a couple more of things now that it’s all back together. I wanted to say thank you for all who has posted on this thread and given pointers and advice on this job. Also appreciate a couple phone calls I had received talking the process over as well.

Here is a good site for a lot of torque specs also. http://www.backglass.org/duncan/ps64...que_charts.pdf

Common tools needed

3/8” and 1/2” breaker bar
Flat head screwdriver
1/2” and 1/4” sockets: 7mm, 8mm, 10mm, 13mm, 14mm, 15mm in both short and deep well
Hammer
Fan clutch tool (just buy one)
Air ratchet
Pick
Brake clean
Lots of rags
5 gallon bucket
Multiple pliers

These are complete basics, just wanted to give a idea what your looking at. I had a LOT of tools out by the time it was all done.




Here is what I started with. I went and took detailed pictures of the cooler arrangement from both sides of the truck so if there was an issue that came up they could be used for reference. (Passenger side)



(Passenger side). As I would take bolts off I would put them back in the part they came out or keep them with the part so you don’t have a huge pile of bolts you are working out of, because there are a LOT of them.



Just a couple shots of how it worked in the garage. I have a nice garage but unfortunately a little short to get this long beast in





First shot with the intercooler out. The intercooler clamps used 7/16” deep well socket. Becareful for the two clamps on the bottom intercooler boot as they are subject to road grime and garbage so they can easily be a pain to get off. Ask me how I know.



Driver side with the intercooler out.



Passenger side with the intercooler out.



This right here is the nemesis of me during this project. I had a very hard time getting the fan clutch nut loose off the water pump. It is a 47mm sized nut. Your box parts stores will have that but Ford decided to have the waterpump pulley have round holes drilled alll the way around. Which made it hard to hold it place. Now if you have the special tool(guess who didn’t) this is not a big deal. So keep that in mind. I ordered the tool afterward for $31. Might want to order ahead of time.



Skipped a couple coolers with pics but here is the front end of the truck with the radiator removed all coolers disconnected or rotated out of the way. Except the A/C which has to pretty much stay in your way the whole time.



Here is a couple pics of the fan clutch and blade finally off along with the round fan shroud.



Ready to go farther? 5-10mm bolts hold the water pump on. Used brake clean and a toothbrush to clean off mating surfaces. All bolts are the same size, no odd ones in random places.



Here is the spot I was worried about at the front cover is $500 by itself. I have a very slight amount of cavitation right where the lower hose come in. I didn’t see any pin holes or bad damage.



Here is a little better picture.



Overall I would say the cover is in great shape.



Here is the part number for the thermostats.



Thermostat housing with new thermostats installed and ready to go. Becareful as the gasket for this has notches go fit in the housing a specific way.



Cleaned up this mating service with brake clean as well.



Retorqued down the thermostat housing to 114 lbf/in or 13Nm. All four bolts are the same size. Also the metal hold down plate does have a specific way. It is marked “top” and “front”.



Here is the new A/C tensioner and belt. I went with Motorcraft for the tensioner and was happy that they came with new mounting bolts as well. Tensioner part #7C3Z*6B209*E. I used the Gates Fleetrunner Green belt, part #K060393HD.



Two new Motorcraft idler pulleys, #7C3Z*8678*B and #3C2Z*8678*AA. New Tensioner for assessory drive #7C3Z*6B209*B. New belt was Gates Fleetrunner Green Belt, part #K080865HD. Airtex waterpump #AW6157. Very please with all the quality of these parts.



Ready for reassemble. The shroud is held on by 2 13mm nuts on top and 2 13mm bolts on the bottom. Will need a deep well socket as well as a 6” extension.



I attempted to replace the two cab rubber bushings on the front while the radiator was out but it didn’t go as planned so that will have to be for a different day. I did however find if you notched about the top nut on the long bushing mounts you can fit a socket through and hold the top from spinning. I think it was a 15/16” socket, but don’t quote me on that.



Part number for the insulator for the bottom of the radiator. You will need 2 of them.



Part number for the insulator on the top of the radiator. You will need two of these also.



I found it easier to flip the new radiator over and start to mount the lower shroud on it. Easier to see and line up.



Again I apologize for skipping the reassembly mostly but I was dead and ran way longer then I wanted quickly. Reassemble in reverse order.





Just a couple pics of the new hoses installed. <br/><br/>Upper driver side



Where the hoses meet. The stock clamps broke we I tried to remove them. So in installed them but put a couple zip ties to help hold it in place.






Top off with fluid and start your trips around the block. It was suggested to me to fill with just water first and give it a go to check for leaks. I bought all the water for doing this, however I realized about 3/4 do the way through that I didn’t drain the block from the plugs. So due to time I rolled the dice and it seemed to work out for me.

 

And to try and give an idea of price involved I will try to list where I got everything and what I have in it.


Radiator was from Primechoice auto Parts out of New York. Lifetime warranty for $233.00 (http://www.primechoice.com/custitem_cat_facet/Radiators)

Coolant hoses I went with Rudys Diesel on ebay. All three hoses out of silicone, your choice of color, fittings, hose clamps and OEM Motorcraft thermostats $230.00. (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Radiator-Co...tYlO5T&vxp=mtr)

Radiator insulators top and bottom, water pump, 2 idler pulleys, 2 tensioners, 2 belts around $365 through rock auto.

Daystar black bushing kit through Amazon Prime for $132. ( )

Fan Clutch tool through Amazon Prime $31 after coupons. ( )

3 gallons of concentrate Final Charge Coolant through NAPA $72. (https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/FCR00836)

3 gallons of distilled water $2.60 at Walmart (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Great-Val...1-Gal/10315382)

A crap ton of patience........................priceless.




For a grand total of what I can remember at $1,065.60. Man that hurt the wallet just saying it. But hopefully no more concern about the radiator imploding at any given moment or the leaking air could cause more cavitation in the cooling system. Also hopefully no failure of anything in the belt drive area as all is new. If I wouldn’t have spent so much already I would have through a new alternator in since it was wide open just to have that out of the way too.

I hope this is useful information to some that have these issues.

 

Next issue it getting the body bushings off and replaced. Attempted the fronts but it didn't go well.

 

Thanks for the pictures and part numbers

 

 

Well my awesome feeling of self confidence has been crushed this morning. Was fueled up and packed up getting ready to head to Chicago. Figured I would pop the hood one last time before hitting the highway, check for leaks as well as check the oil. I saw a couple red dots on the top of the frame on the passenger side. Started checking more and found a clamp that was missed on the trans cooler. Installed the clamp and went to wipe up the fluid. Started looking more, ran my hand under the radiator and it was wet. Climbed underneath and all the way of the bottom of the radiator where the plastic meets the metal it is dripping. Totally pissed and frustrated I cancelled the trip and went to bed. Figured I would come out and inspect more when I was able to get some sleep. Went out a started to investigate. I checked all the Hoses, fittings, water pump, and have come to the conclusion that I must have gotten a bum radiator. I can not find a leak anywhere else. So I am gonna contact the company and see how to get a replacement.








Totally bummed, but I guess it's life right!!!
I am beginning to really dislike Ford engineers.

 

So just a small update I have contacted the company and finished the claim paperwork. I am hoping to hear something back tomorrow. From what I understand the company is good to deal with so I hope to have a new radiator this week.

 

Where ya at on this Seth?

Denny

 

Called Primechoice today. Was on hold for about 24 mins but they processed the claim and are shipping me a new one. Hopefully it gets here this week.

 

Man. Great work here Seth. I'd be scared to try all of this on my own. The front cover looks good...the cavitation is soo minor.

 

Thank you. The work wasn't terribly hard. Just more time consuming then anything.

 

I received the new radiator last week. Box was as shredded as the last one. Hopefully this one works out and doesn't leak.

 

My second is in the truck. Pressure tested all ports before install. The first did pass but the lower was kinda shredded a bit. That's why I opted for another. They are resilient to take the beating but It's a lil work to replace as you know. My first is boxed on standby in the rafters of the garage.

They are quality units. Just don't know why they don't package better.

Throw number one up like I did and buy a pressure tester (dirt cheap) and test the ports.

Can't tell you seth but, due diligence.

They do stand behind themselves in making it right. If 2 is beat up, do the same and stock up!

Denny

 

So basically just plug one side and pressure the other? I do have a mity vac that does pressure. Or did you use a air compressor and put 16 psi in it?

I thought about taking the old one to a radiator shop and see if it can get repaired so I can keep it for a spare.