Coolant Cavitation Question.
Thread Starter
|
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 5,372
Likes: 108
From: Northern Indiana
Another piece of the puzzle was found out today. I looked underneath and the driversside front boy mount is toast. Amazes me how these things fall apart. That does make sense now as to why the driverside of the radiator started looking.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 343
Likes: 0
From: Houston, TX
I just had all the body mount bushings on mine replaced(I assume that's what you're referring to). I started having all kinds of clanking/banging under the truck going over bumps before I had it done. You'll know when it's time. The OEM rubber bushings ride good...they just don't last...AND they cost $$$ from Ford. While you'll lose some overall ride comfort, not having to change them ever again is a good feeling(Daystar aftermarket kit).
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 14,266
Likes: 2,187
Yeah, that may have had something to do with it...it surely didn't help. I thought the radiator itself had it's own supports on the frame?
I just had all the body mount bushings on mine replaced(I assume that's what you're referring to). I started having all kinds of clanking/banging under the truck going over bumps before I had it done. You'll know when it's time. The OEM rubber bushings ride good...they just don't last...AND they cost $$$ from Ford. While you'll lose some overall ride comfort, not having to change them ever again is a good feeling(Daystar aftermarket kit).
I just had all the body mount bushings on mine replaced(I assume that's what you're referring to). I started having all kinds of clanking/banging under the truck going over bumps before I had it done. You'll know when it's time. The OEM rubber bushings ride good...they just don't last...AND they cost $$$ from Ford. While you'll lose some overall ride comfort, not having to change them ever again is a good feeling(Daystar aftermarket kit).
plus 1 on the daystar kit
pkus 2 if you got the daystar Kevlar kit.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 343
Likes: 0
From: Houston, TX
I went with the black kit after speaking with the shop that installed them. They basically said that the black kit would ride a bit better and last every bit as long. It definitely doesn't ride as smoothly as OEM. You can feel more of the pavement under you. They are harder...and pass more of the road to the cab. I've heard the Kevlar kit is even worse.
Thread Starter
|
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 5,372
Likes: 108
From: Northern Indiana
Alright, I stopped by the ford dealer today to get clarification on the coolant hose recall possibility. I was told that it was only a TSB, was not a recall. Was told unless I had an esp plan it would be replace at my cost. Was kinda bummed but wasn’t really expecting anything else.
Went to parts counter to figure out the belt/tensioner situation. Parts guy gave me a print out diagram and all the part numbers which was super nice. All Motorcraft pulleys and tensioners are about $40 more then buying the acdelco stuff so I am gonna go ahead and do it. I was gonna buy Gates Fleetrunner belts, the green ones. Does anybody have any experience with them?
Have thought about just buying the two front OEM body bushings for now? Am I being stupid? Daystar set is about $140 where the OEM bushings for the from is about $60. I really like the way it rides currently.
Is the OEM water pump worth the extra $85? I had good luck with an airtex pump on my 7.3, what are your guys thoughts?
Also when you guys have done your radiators have you used the vacuum fill kit that they say to use so they don’t air pockets in the system or do you just fill and run?
Went to parts counter to figure out the belt/tensioner situation. Parts guy gave me a print out diagram and all the part numbers which was super nice. All Motorcraft pulleys and tensioners are about $40 more then buying the acdelco stuff so I am gonna go ahead and do it. I was gonna buy Gates Fleetrunner belts, the green ones. Does anybody have any experience with them?
Have thought about just buying the two front OEM body bushings for now? Am I being stupid? Daystar set is about $140 where the OEM bushings for the from is about $60. I really like the way it rides currently.
Is the OEM water pump worth the extra $85? I had good luck with an airtex pump on my 7.3, what are your guys thoughts?
Also when you guys have done your radiators have you used the vacuum fill kit that they say to use so they don’t air pockets in the system or do you just fill and run?
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 1,284
Likes: 2
From: Bozeman MT
I’ve used Gates on previous trucks, the other components I buy from my dealer as over time my parts counter knows me by name and gives me excellent discounts when they can. That relationship goes a long ways when it comes time to replace high dollar items like calipers or an alternator.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 14,266
Likes: 2,187
FiLl it and run around the block
Fill it and run around the block
Fill it and run around the block
Fill it and run around the block
About 10 times
its going to suck in another gallon due to air in engine
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,766
Likes: 56
From: East Tawas, MI
I filled mine like old school. Watched the level after letting it get to op temp and added as needed below the full cool line.
After the night passed and everything settled out, I filled it to the cool line and it hasn't moved since.
As I said before, prior to putting the expensive juice in, after what your doing, fill it with 1 dollar a gallon distilled and let her rip.
If you have a compromise, you lose little cash and when you are satisfied with your work, drain it completely/don't reuse and then do what you want to put in it.
I separated the lower hose to make sure it was completely dry to avoid any settling from the flush. Right or wrong, that was what I did. All is good in the world thus far.
Denny
After the night passed and everything settled out, I filled it to the cool line and it hasn't moved since.
As I said before, prior to putting the expensive juice in, after what your doing, fill it with 1 dollar a gallon distilled and let her rip.
If you have a compromise, you lose little cash and when you are satisfied with your work, drain it completely/don't reuse and then do what you want to put in it.
I separated the lower hose to make sure it was completely dry to avoid any settling from the flush. Right or wrong, that was what I did. All is good in the world thus far.
Denny
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 343
Likes: 0
From: Houston, TX
I'll comment on what I can.
All I can say is...I paid Houston Performance Diesel $100 to flush mine and install with the Zerex Red ELC that I brought them. The shop foreman ended up charging me 1 shop hour. His boss was going to charge me 2 hours at $200.00. I started talking to the foreman and once he realized I actually knew something about the truck I guess he was just nice. Ultimately...I don't know what process they used. I just hope it was a good one.
Alright, I stopped by the ford dealer today to get clarification on the coolant hose recall possibility. I was told that it was only a TSB, was not a recall. Was told unless I had an esp plan it would be replace at my cost. Was kinda bummed but wasn’t really expecting anything else.
Yeah...that's what I figured. Sorry about that.
Have thought about just buying the two front OEM body bushings for now? Am I being stupid? Daystar set is about $140 where the OEM bushings for the from is about $60. I really like the way it rides currently.
I just had that Daystar job done. $976.96 out the door at the 4 Wheel Parts down the road. If your front ones are bad, chances are the rest are not far behind. And if you haven't experienced the bangs/clatter yet...you will. The front 2 bushings are also the hardest to swap out. Some bright star engineer from Ford thought out their placement like a genius. The front 2 usually are the ones that require cutting to remove.
Also when you guys have done your radiators have you used the vacuum fill kit that they say to use so they don’t air pockets in the system or do you just fill and run?
Yeah...that's what I figured. Sorry about that.
Have thought about just buying the two front OEM body bushings for now? Am I being stupid? Daystar set is about $140 where the OEM bushings for the from is about $60. I really like the way it rides currently.
I just had that Daystar job done. $976.96 out the door at the 4 Wheel Parts down the road. If your front ones are bad, chances are the rest are not far behind. And if you haven't experienced the bangs/clatter yet...you will. The front 2 bushings are also the hardest to swap out. Some bright star engineer from Ford thought out their placement like a genius. The front 2 usually are the ones that require cutting to remove.
Also when you guys have done your radiators have you used the vacuum fill kit that they say to use so they don’t air pockets in the system or do you just fill and run?
Thread Starter
|
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 5,372
Likes: 108
From: Northern Indiana
So correct me if I am wrong. But if I go ahead and get the radiator all fixed up I can do the body mounts after correct? Or would it be easier to do it while the radiator is out of the way?
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 14,266
Likes: 2,187
You can can do the mounts at any time
dont use an impact on the bolts
use a tourch on the bolt heads to break the lock tight.
use a large breaker bar
if the nut plate spins, wire flux or stick weld the nut plate to the frame. Weld it closest to the frame so the weld gets squeezed as it rotates .
dont forget to remove the steering link bolt , else you’ll damage the steering box and don’t forget to put it back in when your done.
Thread Starter
|
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 5,372
Likes: 108
From: Northern Indiana
Alright,
Parts are on there way. I went Motorcraft for the tensioners and pulleys. Airtex waterpump, Gates Fleetrunner green belts, and motorcraft thermostats, silicone hose kit. $950 in parts currently. All I have yet to order are the body mounts. Have to take a look at all of them.
Parts are on there way. I went Motorcraft for the tensioners and pulleys. Airtex waterpump, Gates Fleetrunner green belts, and motorcraft thermostats, silicone hose kit. $950 in parts currently. All I have yet to order are the body mounts. Have to take a look at all of them.