2008 F250 electrical problems.
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2008 F250 electrical problems.
Just as a background. Before last night everything was working fine and I've never had any electrical problems besides the alternator which I changed a few years ago. I put a new battery in it not that long ago too. Anyway, when I crank up to go home last night, I noticed that my truck started a little sluggishly, but it did start. When I was about 5 miles from home my AC, interior lights, radio and maybe something else just shut off. I made it home fine but this morning nothing works electrically. I cant start it, I cant shift gears, no lights, radio etc... I disconnected both battery terminals and thoroughly cleaned them and there are 3 ground wires connected to the body, that I can see under the hood, that I disconnected, cleaned and reconnected. I checked for any blown fuses but I haven't found any YET. Still looking for/at them.
Anybody have any ideas about what else I might check? I was wondering if I found all the fuse locations.
Thanks.
Anybody have any ideas about what else I might check? I was wondering if I found all the fuse locations.
Thanks.
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Some more info.
I tried another ignition key I have and I got the ignition to turn on and I am able to shift the gear now out of park. I don't know why the other key wouldnt do it but anyway...When I turn the key to the 3rd position I can hear a faint click behind the dash somewhere on the passenger side. No beeping or engine turnover. The overhead light will come on and the manual overhead light will come on but no AC or radio. The power windows will work but they're very VERY slow so I stopped messing with them hoping to conserve whatever battery power I have left. The blinker lights wont work but I can hear the clicking inside the dash. that's all I know right now.
I tried another ignition key I have and I got the ignition to turn on and I am able to shift the gear now out of park. I don't know why the other key wouldnt do it but anyway...When I turn the key to the 3rd position I can hear a faint click behind the dash somewhere on the passenger side. No beeping or engine turnover. The overhead light will come on and the manual overhead light will come on but no AC or radio. The power windows will work but they're very VERY slow so I stopped messing with them hoping to conserve whatever battery power I have left. The blinker lights wont work but I can hear the clicking inside the dash. that's all I know right now.
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OK, that sounds like a good place to focus on. I'll make sure the battery is live and charged, if it is, I'll have the alternator checked, then the cables, then I don't know.... Hoping for a bad battery though since this one has a lifetime warranty. Thanks so much.
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I put a battery charger on my battery for a few minutes and it took a charge, not enough to start it but the lights were brighter and other stuff...It's probably a bad battery.. hopefully. I know it still could be a bad Alt or cable though. I'll know more after I get the battery tested later today. The fact that the key wouldn't turn the ignition threw me off a bit. We'll see.
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Post Fiend
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Battery diagnostics are more accurate with a fully charged battery, even when conductance type testers are employed. Juice it up to 100%
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I charged my battery and drove it to my local auto parts store late yesterday. The "check charging system" warning was on all the way and my battery was drained when I got there. They charged and tested my battery and said the battery was fine and they told me my problem was most likely my alternator which sounded good enough to me that I bought one and installed it last night. This morning after I've charged my battery 100% the "check charging system" warning is still on. I've let it idle for a while but I haven't driven it.
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Check the voltage at the battery with the truck off (should be about 12.6 volts), and then with the truck running (should be about 14 v, +/- .2 v) If the charging voltage isn't in that range then the battery is not being properly charged.
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Thanks.
Post Fiend
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Even better load up the alternator by turning on the heater blower fan to HI, turn the headlights on, radio, blinkers etc, and spool up the engine RPM to about 2000 or so. Voltage will sag some under load but should be in the range of 13.8 to 14.2 volts. Remember the main purpose of the battery is to start the engine. The alternator provides all the juice for lights, ignition and accessories. Normally the battery is recharged in a minute or so, but if there is a defect it will get smoked quick. So keep charging it back up till things get sorted out.
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Thanks Jim. I've got a good voltage meter, it's just not with me, not that I know how to use it or anything. But anyway, A friend of mine works for a mechanic shop, not that far away, that specializes in ford vehicles and I'm on the way now to let him check out my charging system. If I make it. He can test the voltage when it's running and not and with a load on it etc... and hopefully he can tell me wtf is going on.
Thanks for all the help guys seriously. I'll post what I find out in case anyone else has this problem and searches the forum for answers to it. Thanks again.
Thanks for all the help guys seriously. I'll post what I find out in case anyone else has this problem and searches the forum for answers to it. Thanks again.
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