So when I first got the truck fired up after sitting for 7 years, it ran fine sort of. After adjusting timing, fixing vacuum leaks, adjusting the carb with tac and vac gauge and putting a new throttle spring on. The fuel bowl over fills and covers the top of the intake. Are the floats adjustable on these 2bbl carbs that I believe is original or old anyways. Or can someone tell me what I may have done? Thanks.

 

yes, the floats are adjustable by bending the tang. Your needle may be junked up and not seating properly too.

Pull the top of the carb and have a look em

 

Might be fuel bowl inlet needle & seat with crud in it, or who knows. Could be float has failed. Best course is pull the carb and disassemble, inspect and get in the manual, clean it out well, blow out all the air bleeds and orifice with shop air.

Could try the lazy way, bang on the carb body with the handle of a wooden scewdriver, or another trick that sometimes works is to pinch off rubber fuel line and release while engine is running, the sudden inrush of fuel will sometimes wash away a piece of grit or rust, if that's what happens to be keeping the needle seat from shutting off the fuel flow. 7 years is a long time, that's why a rebuild is probably advisable; the carb maybe full of crud and goo.

 

Hi Levi. If it has been sitting that long you really want to overhaul that carb. Buy a $20-25 kit and do it yourself - it really isn't that daunting. I use this document as a guide - looks intimidating but just follow it step by step.

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech..._2150_carb.pdf

Also, you may have crap in your tank - have you cleaned or replaced it?

 

Whenever working on fuel systems esp. older carbureted engines that have been "asleep" it is important to have a fire extinguisher ready and available to include when out on the road on test drives &c.

 

Chances are 9 to 10 there is some junk in the needle and seat. No need to rebuild the carbs unless it won't run or tune properly. the 2100 Series of carbs will digest piles of crud with out issue.

Remove the top plate remove the float, needle and seat. Disable the ignition system (so it is not powered) crank the engine over a couple times to clear the inlet with fuel or blow out if carb is removed then reinstall the needle and seat then the float adjust float height and turn over again to make sure it is sealing. If is your good to go. If not rebuild the carb.

Many of these 2100's get rebuilt when all they need is a float adjustment as they do go out of spec over time.

Also since you got crud in the inlet it is probably time to change your rubber fuel lines.
I'd bet money it is a chunk of degraded rubber blocking it open.

 

I took the top off and adjusted my float. It's no longer spitting fuel out. When I put it in gear the truck has no power and wants to die now. Not to sure what the problem is now.

 

7 Years .... ? Yeah it won't hurt a thing to clean it out.

 

I would say it has a perished accelerator pump and/or power valve.

- boingk

 

It actually wasn't dirty at all when I took the top off. Luckily the tanks were empty when it was parked. What's the accelerator pump and power valve? Are those items on the carb as well?

 

Yes. Both come as part of the rebuild kit. You can see them in the pdf file I linked to above.

 

Yes, they are both on the carb.

Take a look at the link that CelticOne posted in post #4, it will walk you through all of the parts and systems of the carb.

The power valve is on the bottom, under the float, so you will have to remove the carb to change. The accelerator pump is under that square cover, on the face of the carb, with the lever hooked to the throttle.

The power valve gives you more gas when you need it, like punching the gas to pass or climbing a hill. The acelerator pump gives you a squirt more gas right off of idle, like when you are taking off from stop or a stop light, stop sign etc.

Check your vacuum again, you may have a vacuum leak due to bumping something or something has failed after sitting for 7 years.
The Ported Vacuum Switches have a tendency to get brittle and break, maybe a hairline crack at the base of a hose. You may or may not have a PVS. Some refer to them as Thermal Vacuum Switches, TVS.

One time, I had removed the top of my carb to double check that I had clipped the needle back on the seat correctly because it was running horribly after setting the float. Ultimately I found that an insect wing had found it's way into the bowl when I had the top off and settled right on top of the jet, basically metering the fuel. A 2-3 hour headache because I never would think to look for that.

 

TWO different 2V carburetors...What year is the truck?

1973/74 use the Motorcraft 2100 series 2V; 1975/79 use the Motorcraft 2150 series 2V.

The carb kits are different as are many other parts.

 

ND, is there emissions and non emissions variations of the 2100 and 2150 also?

 

Yes, but the 2100 series 2V carb (car & truck) uses the same carb kit from 1962 thru 1974.

2150 2V carb: There are 5 different carb kits just for 1975/79 F100/350's.