1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

55 Y block tear down

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Old 09-23-2017, 08:41 PM
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55 Y block tear down

Hi,
I have done a search. However I did not find anything.
I am looking for an article / video on the teardown of a 55 Y block.
To see how to do it efficiently, effectively and avoid pit falls if possible.

The engine is sized and I noticed the exhaust pipe that goes across the front of the engine was rusted through. I took the exhaust manifolds off and there is rust in the exhaust outlets. I don’t think I would get all of it out with compressed air. So thought it would be best to take the heads off.

As you can probably tell by my questions I am a newbie to engine work.
Will I need new head gaskets to reinstall the heads, if I can get them off in the first place?
I only want to evaluate which way I go. Try to get the old engine running or look for new engine and transmission set up.

Found thid - https://riseofthethunderbird.wordpre...ebuild/page/3/

Somehting more detailed would be good.

Thanks,
 
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Old 09-23-2017, 11:15 PM
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Y
This might give you some ideas, and yes you will need to replace the head gaskets if you use that engine.
 
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Old 09-24-2017, 12:44 AM
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55 Y block head removal

Hi, I took a chance and removed one head. No problem so far.
Thanks,
 
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Old 09-24-2017, 01:09 AM
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So motor is seezed? what have you seen? any rust in cycliders?
 
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Old 09-24-2017, 03:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Kurt G.
So motor is seezed? what have you seen? any rust in cycliders?
Hi,
Kurt a very timely question.
I have just took the head off the over side. Three cylinders look good as far as I can tell.
The fourth, four cylinder I believe in the firing order. Closest the firewall, RH side is not so good.
A patch on the cylinder wall towards the top of the block was / is like coarse sand paper in a patch. It also had a rust colour liquid sitting on top of the diesel I had put in earlier today and yesterday.
I cleaned the cylinder out with a rag and a clean paint brush.
I put diesel in each cylinder I could (six of I think), the diesel in one cylinder went down quite quickly. The others looked they were going down, I will check later or tomorrow.
Not sure what is to be done with cylinder four?
Don’t think sanding it down would be a good idea.
I have been told it’s easier to get it registered with the original engine it it?
But don’t want to spend big money on an old engine really.
Thanks,
 
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Old 09-24-2017, 08:54 AM
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You could probably get it registered with one dead cylinder. Didn't see anyone answered your question about head gaskets so YES always replace head gaskets any time you pull the heads. You'll need a head set like this to reinstall your heads.



Y Block head set Fel-Pro-HS7999PT3

You'll also need a torque wrench (to torque heads, intake, exhaust manifolds and rocker shaft pedestals) and feeler gauges (to set valves).

I would suggest if you don't already have one to get a shop manual.

Since you pulled the heads can you now rotate the engine?
 
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Old 09-24-2017, 12:06 PM
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Got my parts for my 1955 239 Y from Egge out of California. Very happy with the service and quality. Check out their website to get an idea of what parts will cost you. Is your engine an EBV or EBU? I think all the 55' trucks were EBV's.

https://egge.com/

I know there is also a book available for "Y" Block rebuilding on Amazon. Here it is.

https://www.amazon.com/Ford-Y-Block-Engines-Rebuild-Workbench-ebook/dp/B00H6UZV2Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1506012787&sr=8-1&keywords=How+to+rebuild+and+modify+the+Y-Block https://www.amazon.com/Ford-Y-Block-Engines-Rebuild-Workbench-ebook/dp/B00H6UZV2Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1506012787&sr=8-1&keywords=How+to+rebuild+and+modify+the+Y-Block
 
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Old 09-24-2017, 01:50 PM
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Depending on how rough that cyl is sounds like bore is needed. Honestly the Y blocks can be found kind of cheap and hard to tell if its a 239,272 or 292. I have a 292 in my 54 but here it is not so hard to register the vehicle when they are that old.
 
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Old 09-24-2017, 05:15 PM
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Number 4 cylinder wall

Hi,
yes, checked the diesel levels this morning and all cylinders were empty apart from number 4.
Tried to turn it as I thought I had nothing to lose. It rotated and quite freely to a point. Number four was on a down stroke, so it went down and back up, to the point where it met the rust ring. The rust ring is about 1 and a ¼ inch from the top of the cylinder wall down. Must have been the cylinder left exposed to the elements whilst sitting.
The rust doesn’t look as bad as it did yesterday. I don’t know if the diesel sprayed on it has broken down the rust further?

(I’ve got to say the head gaskets look good, they came off intact. Very little effort to remove).

Can I hone the rust out?
I would like to test the engine. See if will run.

I guess if not, its a rebore. Will I still be able to use the same pistons if their in good condition?

Thanks,
 
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Old 09-24-2017, 06:35 PM
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Engine rotated almost 360

Hi,
Scoourer pad and WD40 on cylinder 4 wall. Not up and down, but round the circumference.
Engine turned almost 360. Number 4 piston gets to about 7mm from TDC.

Sprayed WD40 around all pistons. Left to soak.

Hope Io get full turn next time.

Thanks,
 
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Old 09-24-2017, 07:32 PM
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Engine Turns

Hi,
about an hour later.
Engine turns!

Thanks,
 
  #12  
Old 09-24-2017, 08:42 PM
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That's good to hear! Keep up the good work.
 
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Old 09-25-2017, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Kurt G.
Depending on how rough that cyl is sounds like bore is needed. Honestly the Y blocks can be found kind of cheap and hard to tell if its a 239,272 or 292. I have a 292 in my 54 but here it is not so hard to register the vehicle when they are that old.
It's actually really easy to tell what you have.

Click here: TECHNICAL
 
  #14  
Old 09-26-2017, 12:04 AM
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Hi Dave , that's good news on the motor freeing up .
Now go delete some of your old PM messages so you can receive new ones .
 
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