55 Y block tear down
#1
55 Y block tear down
Hi,
I have done a search. However I did not find anything.
I am looking for an article / video on the teardown of a 55 Y block.
To see how to do it efficiently, effectively and avoid pit falls if possible.
The engine is sized and I noticed the exhaust pipe that goes across the front of the engine was rusted through. I took the exhaust manifolds off and there is rust in the exhaust outlets. I don’t think I would get all of it out with compressed air. So thought it would be best to take the heads off.
As you can probably tell by my questions I am a newbie to engine work.
Will I need new head gaskets to reinstall the heads, if I can get them off in the first place?
I only want to evaluate which way I go. Try to get the old engine running or look for new engine and transmission set up.
Found thid - https://riseofthethunderbird.wordpre...ebuild/page/3/
Somehting more detailed would be good.
Thanks,
I have done a search. However I did not find anything.
I am looking for an article / video on the teardown of a 55 Y block.
To see how to do it efficiently, effectively and avoid pit falls if possible.
The engine is sized and I noticed the exhaust pipe that goes across the front of the engine was rusted through. I took the exhaust manifolds off and there is rust in the exhaust outlets. I don’t think I would get all of it out with compressed air. So thought it would be best to take the heads off.
As you can probably tell by my questions I am a newbie to engine work.
Will I need new head gaskets to reinstall the heads, if I can get them off in the first place?
I only want to evaluate which way I go. Try to get the old engine running or look for new engine and transmission set up.
Found thid - https://riseofthethunderbird.wordpre...ebuild/page/3/
Somehting more detailed would be good.
Thanks,
#5
Hi,
Kurt a very timely question.
I have just took the head off the over side. Three cylinders look good as far as I can tell.
The fourth, four cylinder I believe in the firing order. Closest the firewall, RH side is not so good.
A patch on the cylinder wall towards the top of the block was / is like coarse sand paper in a patch. It also had a rust colour liquid sitting on top of the diesel I had put in earlier today and yesterday.
I cleaned the cylinder out with a rag and a clean paint brush.
I put diesel in each cylinder I could (six of I think), the diesel in one cylinder went down quite quickly. The others looked they were going down, I will check later or tomorrow.
Not sure what is to be done with cylinder four?
Don’t think sanding it down would be a good idea.
I have been told it’s easier to get it registered with the original engine it it?
But don’t want to spend big money on an old engine really.
Thanks,
Kurt a very timely question.
I have just took the head off the over side. Three cylinders look good as far as I can tell.
The fourth, four cylinder I believe in the firing order. Closest the firewall, RH side is not so good.
A patch on the cylinder wall towards the top of the block was / is like coarse sand paper in a patch. It also had a rust colour liquid sitting on top of the diesel I had put in earlier today and yesterday.
I cleaned the cylinder out with a rag and a clean paint brush.
I put diesel in each cylinder I could (six of I think), the diesel in one cylinder went down quite quickly. The others looked they were going down, I will check later or tomorrow.
Not sure what is to be done with cylinder four?
Don’t think sanding it down would be a good idea.
I have been told it’s easier to get it registered with the original engine it it?
But don’t want to spend big money on an old engine really.
Thanks,
#6
You could probably get it registered with one dead cylinder. Didn't see anyone answered your question about head gaskets so YES always replace head gaskets any time you pull the heads. You'll need a head set like this to reinstall your heads.
Y Block head set Fel-Pro-HS7999PT3
You'll also need a torque wrench (to torque heads, intake, exhaust manifolds and rocker shaft pedestals) and feeler gauges (to set valves).
I would suggest if you don't already have one to get a shop manual.
Since you pulled the heads can you now rotate the engine?
Y Block head set Fel-Pro-HS7999PT3
You'll also need a torque wrench (to torque heads, intake, exhaust manifolds and rocker shaft pedestals) and feeler gauges (to set valves).
I would suggest if you don't already have one to get a shop manual.
Since you pulled the heads can you now rotate the engine?
#7
Got my parts for my 1955 239 Y from Egge out of California. Very happy with the service and quality. Check out their website to get an idea of what parts will cost you. Is your engine an EBV or EBU? I think all the 55' trucks were EBV's.
https://egge.com/
I know there is also a book available for "Y" Block rebuilding on Amazon. Here it is.
https://egge.com/
I know there is also a book available for "Y" Block rebuilding on Amazon. Here it is.
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#8
#9
Number 4 cylinder wall
Hi,
yes, checked the diesel levels this morning and all cylinders were empty apart from number 4.
Tried to turn it as I thought I had nothing to lose. It rotated and quite freely to a point. Number four was on a down stroke, so it went down and back up, to the point where it met the rust ring. The rust ring is about 1 and a ¼ inch from the top of the cylinder wall down. Must have been the cylinder left exposed to the elements whilst sitting.
The rust doesn’t look as bad as it did yesterday. I don’t know if the diesel sprayed on it has broken down the rust further?
(I’ve got to say the head gaskets look good, they came off intact. Very little effort to remove).
Can I hone the rust out?
I would like to test the engine. See if will run.
I guess if not, its a rebore. Will I still be able to use the same pistons if their in good condition?
Thanks,
yes, checked the diesel levels this morning and all cylinders were empty apart from number 4.
Tried to turn it as I thought I had nothing to lose. It rotated and quite freely to a point. Number four was on a down stroke, so it went down and back up, to the point where it met the rust ring. The rust ring is about 1 and a ¼ inch from the top of the cylinder wall down. Must have been the cylinder left exposed to the elements whilst sitting.
The rust doesn’t look as bad as it did yesterday. I don’t know if the diesel sprayed on it has broken down the rust further?
(I’ve got to say the head gaskets look good, they came off intact. Very little effort to remove).
Can I hone the rust out?
I would like to test the engine. See if will run.
I guess if not, its a rebore. Will I still be able to use the same pistons if their in good condition?
Thanks,
#10
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