2V V10 Rough Idle
Thread Starter
|
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 116
Likes: 7
2V V10 Rough Idle
I have a 2000 F350 with the 2V V10. 171k. I went through a checklist of things I found on here to smooth out my rough idle, but haven’t succeeded.
I have an Air Raid air filter, the rest of the intake components are stock. I have replaced so far:
10 coil packs and spark plugs (plugs were done in March, coil packs over the last two weeks)
MAF sensor (I broke mine when I had it out)
IAC valve
Fuel injector o-rings (March)
I have no check engine light. I noticed the Idle was rough, jumping from 600 up to 900 and then back down, almost sounded like I have a cam. After some digging around here, I replaced all the parts listed above. My truck is not equipped with EGR, so I know that’s out of the question. I checked all the hoses running to and from the throttle body, not a leak anywhere. I unplugged the IAC to see if I had a vacuum leak, but the truck sputtered and died both times.
i also noticed the truck was shifting rough at higher speeds, and at one point while stopped at a red light the truck revved and lurched forward, while my foot was firmly planted on the brake. I topped off my trans and haven’t had that issue since. After replacing all these parts, the truck has smoothed out a little, but still jumps around, from 600 up to 750 and back down at idle.
anybody know what I could be missing? Thanks!
I have an Air Raid air filter, the rest of the intake components are stock. I have replaced so far:
10 coil packs and spark plugs (plugs were done in March, coil packs over the last two weeks)
MAF sensor (I broke mine when I had it out)
IAC valve
Fuel injector o-rings (March)
I have no check engine light. I noticed the Idle was rough, jumping from 600 up to 900 and then back down, almost sounded like I have a cam. After some digging around here, I replaced all the parts listed above. My truck is not equipped with EGR, so I know that’s out of the question. I checked all the hoses running to and from the throttle body, not a leak anywhere. I unplugged the IAC to see if I had a vacuum leak, but the truck sputtered and died both times.
i also noticed the truck was shifting rough at higher speeds, and at one point while stopped at a red light the truck revved and lurched forward, while my foot was firmly planted on the brake. I topped off my trans and haven’t had that issue since. After replacing all these parts, the truck has smoothed out a little, but still jumps around, from 600 up to 750 and back down at idle.
anybody know what I could be missing? Thanks!
Tuned
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 314
Likes: 9
From: SE WI
There is a vacuum hose that runs UNDER the intake manifold that is a trouble point as it is hard to inspect. I have seen pics of this hose here, and on YouTube.
I point this out as even though you have checked, what you are describing sure sounds like a vacuum leak.
I point this out as even though you have checked, what you are describing sure sounds like a vacuum leak.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,812
Likes: 88
From: Thousand Oaks, CA
What is the vacuum reading, is it holding steady?
I just replaced all the vacuum hoses on mine and did not see a vacuum hose running under the intake. Do you know what side it is on? What does it connect?
The only things I see under my intake are a ground strap and a metal tube that I think has engine coolant since it goes into the back of the water pump.
Thread Starter
|
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 116
Likes: 7
Does anyone have a chart of all the vacuum lines? I work at O’Reilly and can buy the vacuum line by the foot very cheap, I figured I’ll just go through and buy all new hose and rerun all the lines in the engine compartment.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,812
Likes: 88
From: Thousand Oaks, CA
Did you really use a Helicoil for a spark plug repair?
They have a reputation for not holding up well for spark plug repairs.
You might do some research on the TimeSert website about their repair inserts.
A bit pricey, but they hold up well.
They have a special insert for repairing Helicoil spark plug repairs.
Thread Starter
|
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 116
Likes: 7
How many miles on the plugs when it blew?
Did you really use a Helicoil for a spark plug repair?
They have a reputation for not holding up well for spark plug repairs.
You might do some research on the TimeSert website about their repair inserts.
A bit pricey, but they hold up well.
They have a special insert for repairing Helicoil spark plug repairs.
Did you really use a Helicoil for a spark plug repair?
They have a reputation for not holding up well for spark plug repairs.
You might do some research on the TimeSert website about their repair inserts.
A bit pricey, but they hold up well.
They have a special insert for repairing Helicoil spark plug repairs.
i noticed that most helicoil kits are a spring type imsert, but the kit that I purchased and used was a solid sleeve with threads inside and outside, much like the timesert kit. It was about $75 at my local O’Reilly
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,812
Likes: 88
From: Thousand Oaks, CA
Were the plugs wiped out at 168k? I bought our Ex with 104k and #3 blew at 108k. The OEM plugs looked ok, but the entire passenger bank were a tad loose. We were camping and I was going change the plugs/boots after our trip. I've read about one case where an OEM plug blew at 68k and a couple that made it to 180k-200k. Most seem to be between 100k-150k. On the Ex and Exped I change plugs/boots at 50k, retorque at 10k and have not had any more issues.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 116
Likes: 7
Were the plugs wiped out at 168k? I bought our Ex with 104k and #3 blew at 108k. The OEM plugs looked ok, but the entire passenger bank were a tad loose. We were camping and I was going change the plugs/boots after our trip. I've read about one case where an OEM plug blew at 68k and a couple that made it to 180k-200k. Most seem to be between 100k-150k. On the Ex and Exped I change plugs/boots at 50k, retorque at 10k and have not had any more issues.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 6 Best Deals Available on New Fords & Lincolns Right Now
Brett Foote
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Tuned
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 314
Likes: 9
From: SE WI
Agree it sounds like a vacuum leak.
What is the vacuum reading, is it holding steady?
I just replaced all the vacuum hoses on mine and did not see a vacuum hose running under the intake. Do you know what side it is on? What does it connect?
The only things I see under my intake are a ground strap and a metal tube that I think has engine coolant since it goes into the back of the water pump.
What is the vacuum reading, is it holding steady?
I just replaced all the vacuum hoses on mine and did not see a vacuum hose running under the intake. Do you know what side it is on? What does it connect?
The only things I see under my intake are a ground strap and a metal tube that I think has engine coolant since it goes into the back of the water pump.
The YouTube vid shows the hose I was thinking about. It is a PCV hose located under the throttle body.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/2...uble-code.html
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,812
Likes: 88
From: Thousand Oaks, CA
The OEM hose was a plain neoprene hose and plastic tubes.
I replaced the entire hose with reinforced fuel rated hose and brass fittings.
Thread Starter
|
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 116
Likes: 7
Were the plugs wiped out at 168k? I bought our Ex with 104k and #3 blew at 108k. The OEM plugs looked ok, but the entire passenger bank were a tad loose. We were camping and I was going change the plugs/boots after our trip. I've read about one case where an OEM plug blew at 68k and a couple that made it to 180k-200k. Most seem to be between 100k-150k. On the Ex and Exped I change plugs/boots at 50k, retorque at 10k and have not had any more issues.
Thread Starter
|
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 116
Likes: 7
Believe it or not, I'm still chasing the issue.
Truck was parked for a few years and is just now getting back to daily driven.
I did a full system UV smoke test, replaced IAC, MAF and IAT with OEM Motorcraft parts. No vacuum leak detected, changing sensors did nothing. I am wondering if the intake did not seal properly and is sucking air in once the truck warms up, it does not idle surge until the truck is up to temp, then it will surge and even stall if I have the wheel at full lock. Will be inspecting intake tonight and hopefully providing an update.
Truck was parked for a few years and is just now getting back to daily driven.
I did a full system UV smoke test, replaced IAC, MAF and IAT with OEM Motorcraft parts. No vacuum leak detected, changing sensors did nothing. I am wondering if the intake did not seal properly and is sucking air in once the truck warms up, it does not idle surge until the truck is up to temp, then it will surge and even stall if I have the wheel at full lock. Will be inspecting intake tonight and hopefully providing an update.
