Wont start 1 click
I have a 1995 Ford Ranger XLT 6 Cyl 3.0
I stalled in traffic one day and it never starts again. New battery, New starter and solenoid, new solenoid on fender well too. I am going crazy wanting to junk this as I don't understand it. It's not rusted up at all, good looker. but if I have to junk it I will. But before I do I'm willing to learn. I need to try things if anyone could help me out with Ideas. I'll check in everyday to see if anything new on this. I really appreciate this.
Thank You!


Good idea to have posted what you've done & parts replaced so far.
Don't toss any more parts at the problem unless you have a positive on a trouble shooting process/procedure.
Do you have a lit CEL, if so, scan the computer for trouble code clues & post All trouble code Numbers, as they can help focus a trouble shoot.
Had you been having any problems, or symptoms Before this happening, or did it come about after some event?
Are the head lights Bright when you turn them on & do they remain bright when you try to crank the engine? If not, suspect a battery cable, or cable connection has gone bad, corroded, loose, broken wire strands. Put Both cables & their connections on both ends of their runs on the suspect list. The most common problem cable is the B-/ground cable, or it's connections to the battery, engine, or body.
If you have a multi-meter, you can perform a under load voltage drop test on the cable runs & their connections, while the head lights are on & are dim.
Or with the head lights on you could try a wiggle test to see if a loose, corroded connection, or broken wire strands would show themselves.
If you don't have a multi-meter, or aren't familiar with voltage drop testing & come to suspect a battery cable, use a good set of heavy gauge jumper cables, one at a time, to Carefully parallel connect them with each battery cable run, to a good clean, unpainted, no rust, bare metal connection point & see if the problem clears. If it does, that cable or it's connections are suspect.
We only have 12 volts or so to work with, so it doesn't take much resistance to cause a serious Under Load voltage drop, sometimes the connection looks ok but the problem is unseen, between the cable connector & it's connection point. All connections must be clean, bright & tight.
When the problem connection is under a heavy electrical load, like the head lights, blower motor on High speed, cigar lighter pushed in, while trying to crank the engine, it'll also feel warm or hot, so the sense of touch can also be used to quickly check for suspect voltage drops along a cable run, or at it's connection points on either end of it's run.
If all that checks out ok, go to the starter motor & thump it with a piece of wood, or hammer handle & see if it'll wake up & start. If it does, suspect worn starter motor brushes, or a faulty, or worn internal motor contact connection.
If you've been having intermittent start problems, that's another clue to look at the starter internally, or pull it for a no cost bench test at most auto parts stores.
If you have to replace the starter, have it bench tested Before leaving the store, I've seen faulty new, or reman parts right out of the box.
More starting trouble shooting thoughts for consideration, let us know what you find.
When I had the same problem with my 87 I did this simple 10 second test.
Grab your jumper cables and connect one end to the negative battery terminal & the other end to any handy spot on the engine.
When I did this on my 87 & it started right up I knew my negative battery cable was toast.









