Well, I'm having the same problem as before...
Went to start the vehicle, turned the key and heard a click, but nothing more. The engine doesn't turn over, but the accessories work. Now I don't even hear a click. With the headlights on, when I turn the key to start, the lights turn off. Based on other posts, I heard that if that happens, it's probably the battery or wiring. I had the battery checked at Autozone and they said it's fine.
When I had the problem before, I had a lot of corrosion on the positive battery terminal. Cleaned both terminals and made sure the connections were good, also sprayed some anti-corrosion stuff on the terminals, and the vehicle started right up...worked fine for about 2 weeks.
When I tried to start the car today and it wouldn't start, I noticed the anti-corrosion spray on the positive terminal was bubbling for a few minutes.
Do you think I should replace the Positive and Negative terminals? The dealership says there is a positive wire from battery to starter relay and another from starter relay to starter...do both need to be replaced? they cost about $40.00 each.

 

Well, You solved your own problem. The bubbling you noticed on the positive terminal indicates the connection is high resistance. The bubbling action is from you trying to start the engine, creating a large current draw, and the connection gets hot from the resistance. Remove the terminals again, inspect / clean it and if necessary, you may have a bad cable to connector which will require either a new battery cable connector or complete cable assembly at your option. For now, just replace the cable between the battery terminal and the starter solenoid on the fender (if so equipped). Also check that ground cable / connection again. If either battery or ground connection is bad the symptoms will be similar. Knowing the Year of the vehicle would help.
Dialtone

 

sorry...it's a 1991 Ford Explorer EB. I assume it's gonna be the positive cable like you said. I'll replace it then let you know...I think I'm gonna replace the negative while I'm at it because it's looking pretty poor. Thanks

 

If you have a multi meter you can check the resistence in the cables. Anything above about 1/2 ohm should be replaced. I had the cable go that connect the solenoid to the starter and it had like a 300 ohm resistence.... that was the obvious culprit. Thing is, the problem was not at the ends... it was in the middle somewhere, so a visual inspection of the terminal ends may not be enought to determine the problem. Let us know what you find.

 

My 92 kept losing charge every month or so. Replacing the positive cable fixed that for me. Last month I had a similar problem to you. My negative cable had broken off at the connector. Replacing that cable fixed that problem quickly, it just took about 2 weeks to figure out what it was.

 

Ordered the Positive and Negative cables through Ford today...$55.00 (Girlfriend works for Ford =) ). Cost about the same through Auto Zone (except not FORD OEM) unless you get the universal cables, but then you have to measure and cut and do things I don't want to do. I'll replace them tomorrow and let you know what I got. BTW, only bought the positive cable from the battery to stater solenoid...I'll hold off on the cable running from solenoid to starter until I try this first. Thanks for the info!

 

Well, I replaced the positive and negative battery cables and so far so good. In case you're planning on doing it for maintenance or a similar problem I was having...I found the easiest method to remove the old cables was by accessing them through the passenger and driver fender well. Both cables run along the chasis behind the front passenger tire. The negative cable stops at the passenger side engine block and is connected to the block with a bolt. The bolt can be accessed through the fender well (passenger side). You can not reach it from under the vehicle because the oil filter is in the way. The negative cable is also connected to the chasis behind the passenger tire fender well by a bolt. This bolt can be accessed from under the vehicle or through the fender well. I used a box wrench to remove it because there wasn't enough room to fit a socket. The positive battery cable continues under the vehicle and connects to the top of the starter on the driver's side. The top of the starter can be accessed through the driver's front fender well. The positive connects to the starter by a bolt and another plug. I did both cables without having to remove any tires. Hope this helps...