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  #16  
Old 09-25-2017, 12:06 AM
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This is probably the most significant body damage on the Bronco besides the floor pan rust.




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Old 09-25-2017, 12:08 AM
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I'm assuming this is a block heater.






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Old 09-25-2017, 01:06 AM
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This plug is a lot further down in the engine compartment. I'm not sure what it is or was.






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Old 09-25-2017, 01:19 AM
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I don't think this passenger wiper arm is factory. I've never seen them adjustable like that before. I personally don't like the black wiper blade holder. I purposely kept the OEM arms/holders on my 77 and just bought some wiper blade refills like I used to when I was 15. Parts stores don't carry them anymore I've noticed. I'm gonna take an arm off my 75 and switch out this adjustable one. I'll have to hit the JY and see if I can find a set of OEM wiper blade holders since my 75 doesn't have them anymore. I hate the black plastic! I really like the OEM look my 77 has with the original arms. Also, make sure your wiper arms are level and in the same spot! I always shake my head when I see these trucks with one blade level with the bottom of the windshield and the other is like 6 inches higher. Gotta keep it lookin' clean!








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Old 09-25-2017, 01:22 AM
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I'm gonna pull off the wheels and paint them up. What do you think, go with a fresh coat of white or something else?




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Old 09-25-2017, 01:39 AM
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Does anyone have a picture of what the tire carrier is supposed to look like? I know mine is missing something, but I'm not sure what. You can see there's a couple smaller dents in the tailgate from the tire carrier either getting swung up against the tailgate or pressed against it like maybe they backed into something. I don't know! Trailer Special emblem is still holding on, the decal is faded and starting to come off though.






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Old 09-25-2017, 01:46 AM
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I'm considering replacing the grill shell and grill with the ones off my 75. I'm a bigger fan of the front end of 73-77 F-Series. I'm not sure if I'd have to switch radiator supports or headlight buckets or whatever is needed. It already has round headlights, but they appear to be a little higher up in the grill area than my 77. Maybe the 78/79 front end will grow on me before I get around to do anything to it.





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Old 09-25-2017, 02:12 AM
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Some shots underneath. You can see the rust in the front floorboards has eaten through in spots. I'll probably tear out the mat in the back to see what's hiding under there if anything.














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Old 09-25-2017, 02:21 AM
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Last pic for tonight. Anyone know why this bracket looks out of place? I've never seen an alternator bracket look like this? Was there something mounted above it? You can see the heater hoses are routed through the bracket rather than around or over it. I'm thinking it's the wrong bracket for this Bronco, but for some reason it seems to work. I could be wrong.






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  #25  
Old 10-01-2017, 12:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schwim View Post
Are you sure it's the rear making the noise? On certain types of asphalt, mine will do a bit of chirping at full lock from the inner front wheel. These 4x4's have quite a wonky track and alignment on the front a full lock, it seems.

Well I've driven it a couple times when its been nicer out and sure enough its coming from the front. I even had the windows down and leaned out a little to check. I guess I'll just have to get used to that.


Made some progress on cleaning up behind the dash/under the hood. I spent the other day going through the dash and taking out unused wires. I took out the non-functional stereo. I later found out, by removing loose wiring, that the stereo power wire wasn't connected. It wasn't fused either, so I'd rather do it the right way later on, so for now it'll sit on the shelf. I removed the wiring for the KC lights that are no longer there. There was also a relay/solenoid like the one for the starter that was mounted to the radiator support under the horn. I have no idea what it was used for, but all the wiring was hanging, so I unbolted it and took it off. The big "coffee can" vacuum canister isn't hooked up at all. I looked up some diagrams and it looks like whatever it ran to before got tossed whenever this Edelbrock intake/carb got put on. I think my end goal is to eliminate anything I can while keeping the Bronco functional. It still starts and runs, so far so good. lol

So, my ignition switch is a little wonky. You gotta get the key in just right in order for it to turn. Once you turn it, there's what I think is a relay behing the gauge cluster, down to the left, and it makes a loud click when it engages. My ignition will engage and disengage this relay if it wiggles at all and the only thing I've noticed when it does is the gauges turn off. You jiggle the key and get the relay to click on and on come the gauges. So weird. I don't think my 77 F100 has that relay, everything else looks the same behind the dash. We'll see if a new ignition switch solves that issue.
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Old 10-31-2017, 02:59 AM
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Why hello my good sirs! I have updates and pics! That's right, now stuff my g-string with ones, baby, I know how much you like pics.

Alright, so the Bronco was acting up a few weeks back. It was bucking like crazy. It felt like it wasn't getting gas. So I started from the top. The carb had gas. The engine started and idled, though it missed a lot at idle and wouldn't hold a steady idle and would eventually die. I checked the fuel filter and this is what I saw.









So, I replaced it with a new filter. No change. The filter never filled more than maybe 1/3 of the way and that's with it laying horizontally. I watched the fuel pump into it as the engine idled and it seemed weak and sporadic like an old man trying to urinate with a swollen prostate. I'm sorry, Bronco, I'll ease that prostate for you! I decided to replace the fuel pump with a new one, I mean, what else do you replace an old fuel pump with? Another old one? Get outta here! Oh yeah, we got good flow. The filter fills up completely, like it popped a little blue pill 30 minutes ago. ARRRGH! YES! Guess what? Still runs the same. The hell is goin' on. Well the last thing I got was gas, so maybe I got bad gas that had water in it... OR maybe there was a lot of condensation in the tank since it's never been over 1/4 full since I got the Bronco. Alright, so I popped in a couple of bottles of HEET and 5 gallons of fresh gas from a different gas station.




It's either that or some 99% isoproply alcohol to help make the water combustible I'm told. I drove down country roads enough to run off at least 5 gallons worth of gas. It felt like it was getting better by the end of things, but I always had to hold the rev high to keep it from bucking. I pulled into town and went home, but it was back to bucking just like it had before. Well, what else makes a vehicle cut out like it has no gas? I thought about how rev limiters work. I'm told most OE rev limiters work by cutting out the injectors so the cylinders get no gas until the rpm drops down. Its also my understanding that most aftermarket ignition systems, like say... an MSD 6AL ignition box, cut out the spark at a given rpm. Well if it isn't a gas shortage, maybe it's not getting spark! I wasn't in the mood at the time to start testing stuff. It was about midnight when I thought of the spark issue, so in order to keep things simple I decided to just swap some known good parts. I looked at the coil on the bronco and it has threaded posts and ring terminals. My F100 has a different style. My F150 that's just sitting there waiting for me to pull parts off it has a complete MSD ignition system. I decided to use the Blaster 2 coil off it because it too has threaded posts for ring terminals. Yes, a Blaster 2 coil on its own works with the OEM Duraspark ignition.







I wired it up and problem solved. I don't know what was going on with the old coil, but whatever it was wasn't able to be seen visibly. Bronco bucks no more. It still has a little misfiring, but that was there before the bucking, so I'll work on that next as far as engine performance goes. I guess in the end that I could have not replaced the fuel filter and fuel pump, but they were both on their last leg, so it didn't hurt to have them replaced.
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  #27  
Old 10-31-2017, 03:49 AM
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What? You want more pictures? You know what to do.


So what does a 78 Bronco look like with one 31" tire and one near bald 35" tire? Why, it looks like this.






Sorry, I didn't bother to snap a pic before I took off the front wheel, so you'll have to imagine what it looks like sitting on the 31" tires it had when I got it. I want 35s on it. I need 35s on it. I love when trucks or SUVs have large tires with no lift, they look more muscly to me for whatever reason, maybe its the filled wheel wells. I was able to get a relatively cheap ($200) set of 17" wheels and worn out non-matching 35" tires the other day. I realize that with full tread they'll be bigger, obviously, but they do fit. The stock rims with 35s might be a different story and I did try to find some used 35s to try it out, but no one had any used 35x12.50r15's. I don't know the width of the rims, I'm guessing maybe 9" but there's a -12 on the back of the rims and I'm assuming that's the offset in millimeters, which would be just under 1/4" of negative offset. The tires DO rub, but only when flexing the suspension and its also due to MT's having thick side lugs compared to your average AT tire, like the 31's that were on it. I think if these rims had been maybe a 1/2" negative offset rather than 1/4" that it would have been perfect without a modded suspension anyway. Here's a look at it with all the 35s on.





I need to hit up ebay and find some front center caps for the 4wd hubs. I have four center caps, but I'd, of course, have to cut the ends off of two of them to make them fit the front hubs, which I don't want to do. I took it "wheeling" the past few days and I use that term loosely. There's an area across the Snake River Canyon from the town I live in that people use for off road fun, mostly of the dirt bike and four wheeler kind. It's high desert and lava rock and at some point over the last few years the state fenced off the best (and in my opinion the only real good spot for using trucks) spot for mudding and climbing, so my options were limited, but it was still fun to get an idea of what this thing can do at the moment and where I might want to make upgrades. It doesn't really flex much with factory suspension, plus the factory sway bars are counter productive since they want to fight what it is that you're trying to do. Here's an idea of how much it currently flexes. Sorry for the pic quality on these, I was using my "dumb" phone when I was messing around out there.












I'll try to make some disconnects for the sway bar end links to get some more flex and see where that puts me. I would just take them off, but I like the way it handles on road, so I don't really want to mess with a good thing.

The guy who sold me the wheels and tires plasti-dipped them black, which I'm not a huge fan of. I peeled some of the black off and revealed what appears to be machined aluminum. I googled the brand name and I think this is what they look like underneath. Not too shabby, I'll have to take all the plasti-dip off.








Here are some pics to show where and how much the tires rub under flex. You'll notice that the driver side rubs more than the passenger side and the front rubs more than the rear which, of course, is because the front wheels turn! I only took one pic of the rear since both sides rubbed the same amount, not even enough to take off paint.



Driver side.











Passenger side.






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  #28  
Old 10-31-2017, 03:55 AM
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As of right now, I think this has been the most fun owning a $700 vehicle. I've owned a few cheapies and this one is by far the most fun, though it needs everything worked on. Good times.
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  #29  
Old 10-31-2017, 04:25 AM
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Some insight for those considering larger tires and/or a gearing change! Yes, you can go larger on tires without changing the rear end gear ratio, mine are 3.50. However, you WILL put more stress on the gears/drivetrain. Under certain take offs my Bronco will shutter when I release the clutch. I've adjusted my take offs to compensate, but it's obviously due to the increased weight of the tire/rim combo. The stress isn't noticeable once moving. ALSO, consider the change in rpm at certain speeds. When I had the 31" tires on I would be able to comfortably cruise at 35 mph, which is the typical speed limit in and around my town, in fourth gear. Now with the 35" tires the rpm I'm spinning at 35 mph is too high in third and dang near idle in fourth. It makes it awkward to drive in town. If you're in fourth and need a quick grunt of some torque to move out of the way because some idiot isn't paying attention on the road, you're not gonna get it at 1k rpm or whatever rpm I'm at when it's putting around in fourth, unless you down shift to third quickly which isn't as convenient as when you're in an automatic with the auto kickdown. It's just some things I haven't heard people mention, it's not always just about getting the rig moving, but how it affects the rest of your driving. I'm not going to daily this Bronco, so it doesn't bother me much right now. I'm definitely going to get at least some 4.11 gearing in the front and rear at some point in the future, oh and some LSDs or lockers, because wheeling in two open differentials is hilarious at times. I guess two wheel drive is better than one wheel drive, because that's what it really is with open differentials in my F100 and Bronco. Having said all that, 4-lo with the NP435's granny gear is nothing but a grin from ear to ear when you're going up something stupid steep. I took my wife and three little girls with me the other day for a ride off road and I found out my tough little tom-boy 5 year old is a huge cry baby when we get bouncing and bumping around on trails and going up steep hills in 4-lo.
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Old 11-05-2017, 01:32 AM
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So I did some "repairs" to the heating system on Das Bronco. Sehr Gut? Eh, maybe.

I've been running down my heater issue from early on getting this pos (I use that term lovingly) about two months ago. After messing with the fuse block, thinking I wasn't getting power, I was able to determine power was indeed getting to its proper destination. The fuse block powers different circuits depending on the keys position, keep that in mind if you ever trouble shoot. With the key OFF it powers the fewest, with the key to ACCESSORY it powers a few more, and then with the key set to ON it'll power it all. Also, if you're tracing power to and from the heater fan switch, make sure you have the heater controls set to something other than OFF or it'll prove difficult.

I put in a new fan switch I got from the wrecking yard and it made no difference. After cleaning out some of the unused wiring from behind the dash and under the hood I noticed that the heater fan resistor had been removed from its place and disconnected. Now! This will indeed keep the fan from blowing, but only on any setting other than high. I know this, because once I got the fan working I tested that out and it would blow, but only with the fan switch flipped all the way to the highest setting. I plugged the resistor back in (be careful, when it gets power when you turn on the heater it turns red hot like the inside of a toaster, leggo my eggo) and there was no difference. I went further along making my way towards the heater box. Guess what, the fan motor was unplugged down by the heater box inside the cab.

This is extremely annoying, because from what I can tell by doing my Ace Ventura sleuthing is that someone at some point lost heat. Imagine that! They eventually took everything apart inside the cab while troubleshooting and figured the fan motor was bad. They took the cover off the heater box inside the cab and saw how difficult it was to get to the fan with the evaporator in the way. They THEN went underneath the hood and drilled out the rivets holding the cover onto the heater box under the hood only to find out that you CAN'T take the fan motor out from under the hood and for that reason FORD put a giant sticker on the heater box that tells you NOT to service the heater from under the hood. They got pissed, probably said some choice words, had a smoke and a beer, then, because they drilled out the rivets holding the box together, had to pop rivet it back together. Yes, my heater box has pop rivets in it. I figure that at some point during all of this that they were taking it apart with the battery still hooked up and that while removing the dash pieces that some part of the fan switch with bare metal and a hot connection rested against its support bracket, which is also metal, and caused arcing and a short and is what caused the switch and the plug on the harness to melt, and burn, and can you feel it! YES! YES!




I tested the plug where it connects to the fan under the dash next to the heater box cover and there was power, so the fan had to be dead. Since all the ac equipment is missing except for the evaporator and the hoses connected to it I decided to just remove it and have nothing but heat in the Bronco for now. I figure with the windows down and the top off during the summer that that should be enough for my "cooling" needs. If I decide to add a new ac system I think I can find a decent aftermarket one that will suffice.

While I was going into the depths of Mordor to get to the fan motor I figured I'd replace the heater core since who knows when the last time was that it got any use and the last thing I need is to get everything back in and have a blown core and do it all again. The old core looks alright, so I'll just flush it out and keep it as a back up. During the removal of the evaporator you might have thought I was trap shooting, because I kept telling myself to pull. At that point I had gotten a little impatient and I broke a piece of the heater box where the hoses for the evaporator come in. I knew it was a risk and I didn't really care, because if it broke I figured I'll just epoxy it back on and consider life with this Bronco a success. You'll see that I used JB Weld and put it back together. It holds nicely. I found it easy to mix and apply using a straw. When you're done mixing it up with the straw you can "scoop' it into the straw by pushing the end of the straw through it and then applying it to the ridge of the plastic piece is easy, because all you do is squeeze it out in a nice controlled bead. BAM!

The difference between the old fan and the new fan is crazy when it comes to how well each of them spin. The old motor still functioned, just not well enough to spin at anything other than full power. I hooked it straight to the battery once I cut it out and it would spin, but went slowly and made hideous noises. I tested the new one the same way before soldering it up to the old wiring harness and you never really know how much torque electric motors have until you have one in your hand when it kicks on. Amazing, and this thing is tiny, no wonder electric cars can move the way they do. A word of advice, be careful when removing the fan from the motor, if it gets bent in any small amount it'll wobble and vibrate when its spinning.

The way I'm leaving things getting to the heater core will be super easy if this one blows in the future. Without the evaporator in the way everything has easy access. In an effort to maximize heating I had to leave the blend door in. I had considered removing it since I was no longer blending anything. The top bracket for the heater core hooks to the top of the blend door bracket, so it needs to stay unless you want to fab something up in its place. Also, without the blend door, the fan will pull air from everywhere around the core rather than pulling air through the core to heat it up first before sending it through the heating ductwork. I also used some expanding foam spray to fill in some gaps and to fill in the holes where the hoses for the ac would normally go. Its the kind of foam people use around their pipes, like the ones under your sink etc etc. I'd say the cost of everything I used to get this job done was somewhere in the $50-60 range give or take.

Now I just have to get EVERYTHING back together. Someone literally took all the ducting apart, so it's just loose behind the dash. The center duct, which is basically made of paper, is trashed, so I'll try to see if the one in my 75 is still good. If it's not, then I'm considering just capping it off on the plastic ducting and going without a center vent until I can find a solution. All I'm really concerned with at the moment is getting proper defrosting going. If I need to use this thing this winter, it's most likely going to be because something is stuck in snow and I need to pull it out. I wanna be able to see where I'm driving!

Pics will be posted next. Enjoy! I sure am!
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