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I know I'm probably overacting but I'm tired of blowing cash on junk i don't need lol. Needed a driveshaft that actually fit and was reasonably balanced for my 76 f100 with a toploader 3 speed and a 9 inch rear. picked this one up at the u-auto-pullit out of the bed of an explorer cross track. Is this dent enough to set off the balance? The shaft and U-joint ends were also sort of scratched up. Just found out I'm going to have to spend extra money getting conversion joints. And there's a 30 day warranty at the yard.
Anyway I've got no clue about this kind of stuff and don't want another shaking mess of a driveshaft.
What happened to the original driveshaft for your '76?
Do you have the yoke?
Just have a shaft made.
The tubing is the cheapest part. The labor, yoke, u-joints or flanges are the money. That thing you bought is out of an Explorer? With a dinged tube....No savings there.
What happened to the original driveshaft for your '76?
Do you have the yoke?
Just have a shaft made.
The tubing is the cheapest part. The labor, yoke, u-joints or flanges are the money. That thing you bought is out of an Explorer? With a dinged tube....No savings there.
This is the original driveshaft lol. also there was over 3 inches of the yoke sticking out of the back so I think it was to short anyway.
I do have the yoke and flange, I had already bought 1330 u joints but my truck ended up taking having 1310 u-joints. The new shaft took 1330 joints though so it took me a while to figure that out!
So the new shaft is junk? Nothing balancing weights could fix?
Balancing won't help if it's got a bend in it. I had one with a little bend, shook the truck pretty good at 50+.
I got my shaft re-tubed, balanced, new u-joints for $190. Prices might be higher now, but it didn't shake.
Conversion joints....between the shaft and those, how much are we talking?
Conversion joints form 1310 to 1330 are 20 a piece vs about 5 a piece of what I already bought. local shop said about 450 to make a driveshaft and 180 just to shorten one I bring in.
Holding a yard stick against the shaft where the crease is the stick is flush outside of the dent. But I've got no idea how exact of a science this is.
So yeah I don't know if I want if I want to blow 40 bucks on conversion joints for what may be a junk shaft or blow a lot more than that fixing a problem I don't know exists yet lol.
I would try to find a different shop those prices seem high to me. I just had a shaft shortened and balanced with all new joints for $190.00. I have run shafts with that small of a dent and never had a problem but you are taking a chance. A good driveline shop should be able to put that shaft in a lathe and tell you if it actually straight or not and then you can make your decision.
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