I'm new to the site. Been having some problems with my truck not running. So I'll lay out what I've had done or done to the truck and explain the situation...

Went on a trip, truck hiccuped on the way to the destination twice with no other problems. Once we arrived had no problems. The next morning we left the motel and it hiccuped again. Shortly there after the truck cuts off. We pull over and I restart the truck. It runs for about 30 seconds and dies. So I have the truck trailered home that afternoon. we drop the truck off at a local shop, guy dives into it and tells me that the wiring harness came loose from the FICM. He ran it around town some before returning it to me. He said this was a common problem with the harnesses and the heat breaking the clips. That he just zip ties the harness in and has had no problems, but if I continue to have issues I may need to replace the wiring harness. I get the truck home take it out around town and it dies 4 times on the trip. Each time I was able to refire and continue on my way. I get home ,pull the truck into my shop and find one of the ties loose. So i replace all of the ties and make sure that they are good and snug. I then take the truck out several times with no problems. So I then decide to take it on another trip , and on the return home I stop at the local store. When i try to start it up, it'll crank but will not start. I notice no injector buzz. So here is all I've done and/or tested.

Replaced injector harness
Replaced main engine harness
Replaced FICM relay
Swapped ECM relay under steering column fuse panel
tested both batteries- passed
tested alternator- passed
FiICM Lpwr-12.6v
FICM Mpwr- KOEO-48V/cranking 47.5v
FICM Vpwr-10v
FICM Sync-no
Cam Sync- no fault
ICP-1345psi cranking
IPR koeo-14% Cranking-48%
Performed injector self test, program showed that it completed successful, but Heard no injector buzz
Codes:P0100, P01378,U0105,U0306

All information was retrieved with an Auto Enginuity DTC pc scanner. If I leave the key on long enough I will intermittently hear the injector buzz. Ive gotten the truck to start twice, but only if the injector self test runs a full cycle on its own.
Any and all help would be greatly appreiciated, I'm at wits end and need my truck running again. Thank

 

Anyone ever had anything like this happen to their truck?

 

You replaced the processor to FICM harness or not?

 

No FICM sync and 10V on the power side, no buzz.

Red flags right there

 

So is code P1378

 

Logic side failing then?

 

One thing I didn't see in the numbers was cranking rpm. I think it has to be close to 200 for the FICM to synch.

Does the tach work when you are cranking? The FICM won't buzz the injectors if either the cam sensor or crank sensor is bad. My cam sensor was hosed so I got no FICM synch and no buzz. I replaced it and it fired up fine.

Low voltage (10v) is a FICM killer, too, from what everyone has said here on the forum. It would probably be a good idea to charge the batteries before cranking again.

Good luck!

 

Ok, So what is the processor to the FICM Harness? But no I haven't changed it. I'm in the process of replacing the Crank sensor now. Mechanic changed the cam sensor when it first shut down. The tach is reading Rpm's when I try to crank,somewhere around 200-300. Will recharge batteries again but were fully charged when I did all of this recon previously. Thanks for the help.
Isn't the FICM Lpwr , the logic power? What is the FICM Vpwr?

 

Since the relay was replaced, I would guess you are correct - logic side of the FICM is failing.

First thing though is for him to correct the low supply voltage as you indicated.

Evan06 -
When you said you tested your batteries and they passed, what testing did you do? Did you individually load test them? If not, charge them and then load test them individually. If you did actually load test them, then charge them and keep them charged.

Also, 150 rpm is the target to start, not 200.

 

Thanks for the correction on the start rpm, my mistake.

If you are seeing crank rpm on the tach, the sensor is probably ok.

I concur, sounds like FICM to me. (I'm no expert, but I have stayed at HIE)

 

I had pulled the batteries out and took them to the parts house to have them load tested. I also had the alternator tested at the same time.

 

.

 

well since I have a new crank sensor, I'm going to go ahead and replace it. I hate to hear that the Ficm is going out or gone. I'm just disappionted that after getting a higher quality(or so I thoughgt) FICM, it has gone bad after only 20,000 miles.

 

The FICM can be tested.

 

Where did purchase the FICM from?
Was it new?