Harmonic Balancer Install
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Harmonic Balancer Install
1983 F250
351W
So I am replacing my timing chain. All is well so far but the shop manual says "add Ford Polyethlene Grease or equivalent to the oil seal rubbing surface of the vibration damper inner hub to prevent damage to the seal and the front of the the crankshaft for damper installation."
Any one know what grease I need. Took the manual to advanced and they didn't know
Thanks!
351W
So I am replacing my timing chain. All is well so far but the shop manual says "add Ford Polyethlene Grease or equivalent to the oil seal rubbing surface of the vibration damper inner hub to prevent damage to the seal and the front of the the crankshaft for damper installation."
Any one know what grease I need. Took the manual to advanced and they didn't know
Thanks!
Moderator
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From: Virginia
A little bit of motor oil or any type of grease would work. All you are doing is pre-lubing the seal so it slips on without damage during assembly. I do not think grease on the shaft is necessary.
I would also put some rtv on the back of the washer before you install it and the large center bolt. I just rebuilt a 2.9 v6 engine in my ranger, and I had a oil leak up front. I thought it was the timing cover front seal, but come to find out the oil was making it's way past the key on the damper, and then going around the washer and slinging out from the pulley.
You also need to check that surface on the damper where the seal runs. High mileage engines end up with a groove in the surface of the damper. A new seal will not seal with a groove. They make a repair sleeve you can buy at the store to slip over this area and restore it smooth.
I would also put some rtv on the back of the washer before you install it and the large center bolt. I just rebuilt a 2.9 v6 engine in my ranger, and I had a oil leak up front. I thought it was the timing cover front seal, but come to find out the oil was making it's way past the key on the damper, and then going around the washer and slinging out from the pulley.
You also need to check that surface on the damper where the seal runs. High mileage engines end up with a groove in the surface of the damper. A new seal will not seal with a groove. They make a repair sleeve you can buy at the store to slip over this area and restore it smooth.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
^^^^ This. Put some RTV in the groove and on the key itself, the idea is to seal that area.
The old manuals said "white lead" and motor oil combo. Moly D grease would probably be a good modern sub if you have it. Chassis grease would work and you probably have that on hand.
The old manuals said "white lead" and motor oil combo. Moly D grease would probably be a good modern sub if you have it. Chassis grease would work and you probably have that on hand.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2008
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From: St Albert, Alberta
Polyethylene grease is a plastic compatible grease it is translucent white in colour thick and fairly gooey If you have pulled plastic gear cases apart in appliances or kids toys or plastic window regulator slides in modern cars that is the stuff used. It is also commonly used on bicycle chains, (most bike shops will carry it). An alternative or equivalent in this application would be white lithium grease,
Do NOT use , sodium, aluminum complex, calcium sulfonate, phosphate, clay based, or moly greases. All have microscopic particles that will damage the seal's mating surface, they do how ever work to protect mating surfaces in high load applications much like the zinc (ZDDP) in motor oils for flat tappet cams.
Do NOT use , sodium, aluminum complex, calcium sulfonate, phosphate, clay based, or moly greases. All have microscopic particles that will damage the seal's mating surface, they do how ever work to protect mating surfaces in high load applications much like the zinc (ZDDP) in motor oils for flat tappet cams.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 5,831
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From: St Albert, Alberta
^^^^ This. Put some RTV in the groove and on the key itself, the idea is to seal that area.
The old manuals said "white lead" and motor oil combo. Moly D grease would probably be a good modern sub if you have it. Chassis grease would work and you probably have that on hand.
The old manuals said "white lead" and motor oil combo. Moly D grease would probably be a good modern sub if you have it. Chassis grease would work and you probably have that on hand.
Fortunately Lead based anti seizes are still available (for now) and are the best there is for lower temp (under 550F) applications it is mostly used for on steam piping for it's anti corrosion properties. There is an active mil spec for it and I would assume a need for the stuff in Mil usage so that may be why the enviro ****'s have not banned it (yet).
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
Right, it's just for the snout area is all, so it will install a little easier. Dampers have a very close interference fit, maybe .0007"? They have to fit super tight to the crankshaft or they won't do their job, which is an important one. More than you probably wanted to know about vibration absorbers:
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...ve_and_install
The crankshaft itself can twist up to 2° in operation, a defective damper can mean a cracked or even broken crankshaft.
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...ve_and_install
The crankshaft itself can twist up to 2° in operation, a defective damper can mean a cracked or even broken crankshaft.
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Thanks for all the replies guys I will go ahead and use some motor oil-its all I got...Ill be sure the check the surface of the damper
Also I cant get my crankshaft to stop spinning to get my crankshaft bolt on(its in first gear parking break on). I've read something online that you can put a small amount of rope inside the spark plug hole to lock the cylinder on its up stroke so you can get it to correct torque specs....is this reccomended? or are there any other methods that anyone has used?
Thanks again
Also I cant get my crankshaft to stop spinning to get my crankshaft bolt on(its in first gear parking break on). I've read something online that you can put a small amount of rope inside the spark plug hole to lock the cylinder on its up stroke so you can get it to correct torque specs....is this reccomended? or are there any other methods that anyone has used?
Thanks again
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From: Orlando area
You can install longer bolts in the damper (the bolts that mount pulley to damper), then put a long pry bar in between them to hold crank. I've also used a short piece of chain attached to a damper bolt with other end around frame to hold things.
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From: Virginia
That's what I do, put the bolts in that hold the pulley, and put a big screwdriver or something between them to hold it from turning. You can also get one of those big orange deadblow hammers from harbor freight and smack the handle of the ratchet or breaker bar with the socket on it. Sort of like a impact wrench. A few smacks and it's tight enough.
Lead Driver
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Think of it in terms of driving away from a stop. First gear makes it easy to get going. Start out in high gear and you'd stall the engine. Only in this case, you want to "stall" the engine while tightening that bolt.
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You also need to check that surface on the damper where the seal runs. High mileage engines end up with a groove in the surface of the damper. A new seal will not seal with a groove. They make a repair sleeve you can buy at the store to slip over this area and restore it smooth.
Got everything on the run..everything is on but the radiator--next weekend I can hopefully get it started-
Thanks again guys.
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