Annnnd, I'm back!
I feel like a terrible person for buying a second truck around Mugly's back, but this girl is many of the things I need which Mugly can't easily reproduce with my limited time frame.
I bought this truck because I have plans to drive between Alaska and Baja, Mexico several times over the next years. Yes, I hope to run the Baja 1000 myself.

Anyways, the truck is with out name but will get the flat bed treatment ASAP.
I flew up to Fairbanks and gave her a once over. The price was absolutely right, so I made the deal. My loving GF flew up after work and road tripped home with me.
She is a 2000 XLT with 201k miles. ZF6 swapped, injectors/turbo, regulated return, 2.5 inch lift, King ranch interior swapped in. And some other odds and ends.
I'm excited to be around here again, even though I'm cheating on Mugly. As much as I love that truck, I wanted a CC LB with a manual and this one happened to be priced right.
First things first:
Headlight setup is a joke. I can't see ****. Light bar on the roof is the only way I made it back to Anchorage last night. One of the previous owners went on a LED kick with the lights and I plan to undo much of that. Odd colors here and there, no resistors so the blinkers flash as if a light is out. Just silly stuff.
The shocks on the truck are probably original and completely done. With a 2.5 lift, what would be a good option for replacement?
Steering is loose but not the worst I've driven, what is standard protocol on tightening that up?
I have an oil leak from the bell housing of the transmission. Do I start with a rear main seal and perhaps go ahead and dive into a clutch kit, or start in the V?
Truck feels like front bearings are weird. I happened to pick up a Dyna Trac free spin kit for 1,300 a month ago in Anchorage, with the hubs. I'm planning on throwing that on and maybe new ball joints and tie rod ends.
What are the commendation on brake pads? She could use rotors all the way around.
The truck has a ton of really poorly added on wiring and dummy switches. I plan to eliminate most of that and get an F650 dash if I can.
It is good to be active around here again!
Lots of questions there...
On the steering box there is a lock nut with a screw sticking out of it up top, loosen the nut and try screwing the screw in a little, it can help tighten up the box but be very careful, only make minor adjustments (like 1/4 turn) and check for improvement. Too tight and you'll blow the box.
Rear main seal rarely goes bad, oil leaks up top drain through a hole in the back and down the transmission bell housing. So look up top for your oil leak(s).
I just use standard, middle grade rotors and pads but I am not doing any mountain towing either.
Be careful with the steering box tightening, just 1/8 turns each time until you think it is right. Start getting ready to replace the box though as if the steering gear needs to be tightened, it will be on its way out soon.
Again like John said, get the front end off the ground and jack stands under it. See what moves that is not supposed to and start repairing.
Brake pads, I went with Hawk LTS pads for the front on some slotted/drilled rotors and they have served me well. Even traveling cross country with a 30 ft pull behind RV and then a 36 ft 5th wheel. Brakes have been great so far.
Shocks, there are a lot of opinions. I am very happy with my Bilstein HD's, but seeing as you have a lift you will be looking at the 5100's.
Rear main seal leak is unlikely. As Mark mentioned above, you probably have a top side oil leak and it is coming down through the drain in the rear of the valley and out of the housing. You can see in the picture below where a friend of mine installed a drain tube in order to get the leaking oil directly to the bottom of the truck, instead of getting slung up on the flywheel or clutch pack.
Names, well that is a personal choice, but what about Sticky. That can imply a lot of things, but I thought of it because it was born as an automatic, but came over to the dark side as a manual. I love the ZF6 transmission in my truck, and would have regretted getting an automatic. That is just me though.
Nice looking truck, I hope it serves you well.
After the front end is all gone through, you may need to consider a redhead gearbox on the next group buy.
Trending Topics
1. Tires look good in that size. Very aggressive stance.
2. Stick shift shroud needs a little love, but nothing a few minutes cannot take care of.
3. Wheels in the bed for sale and recoop a bit of cash or reutilize on another vehicle.
4. Looks like a scene from the movie Saw in the bed of the truck, but again some TLC will help with that.
5. You know this already, but headlight and tail light housings have to go.
6. I like the rear mounted lights on the topper, good idea.
7. Yellow and green zip ties under the hood for additional contrast and color.
8. Lastly, love those seats.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
I have the Bilstein 5100s. Hey seem really stiff to me. I kinda wish I had gotten something softer but will like them when on have my TC in my bed 2500#.
The more I think about it, the more this becomes the last truck I'll buy for a long time. I hope.
Looking at flatbed options, so the damage to the bed wasn't an issue to me.
What is the best solution for the headlights? 05-07 housings?
What size are the tires on it now?

















