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X code install fun on a 4x4 Ex

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Old Sep 7, 2017 | 03:15 PM
  #16  
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Anyone else have issues with the track bar pushing the axle over so it's near impossible to align both front and rear shackles?
 
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Old Sep 7, 2017 | 03:19 PM
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Yes. I used ratchet straps to pull it in line to install but in the end it pulled my leaf bushings off center and I had to get an adjustable Trac bar. With x code springs the axle is not in the center with the stock bar.
 
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Old Sep 7, 2017 | 03:28 PM
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Thanks for that info. I'll try a ratchet strap set first but which bar did you get?

edit: Nevermind it's in your sig!
 

Last edited by thor363; Sep 7, 2017 at 03:50 PM. Reason: Reading glasses installed...
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Old Sep 7, 2017 | 04:14 PM
  #19  
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Gonna post this here so others can see a solution if they need help. I've done this install a few times and it's easy to forget things that can make the install go easier

Every X is different. You won't always need an adjustable Trac Bar/Drop bracket. I didn't need one until I put my lift shackle in.
Originally Posted by Tylus
Originally Posted by thor363
I am having a problem getting the rear shackle to align. The srping end is inbound a bit. I think it's due to the trackbar and axle orientation. Not sure it moved but how did you ever get it all lined up again. Did you have to drop the other side first before you could assemble the first side? Thanks, Dave
You have to leave everything loose. Run the nuts for U-bolts on axle only enough that they keep the alignment pin centered on leaf pad. Make sure front bolts are in, but not tight either.

It should be super wobbly and loose. That will give you enough flex to align the rear leaf eyelet to shackle

It can be a bear. Also make sure stabilizer is completely removed. Any tight bolt is gonna fight you
 
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Old Sep 8, 2017 | 11:06 PM
  #20  
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So the new X codes put the Ex at 26.25" from hub center to lip of wheel well (with Eddie Bauer cladding). Rear is sitting at 24" until I get done with that. Looks like a few ways to get a desired rake.
 
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Old Sep 9, 2017 | 01:16 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by thor363
Yes, that one. Seriously??? I read somewhere it had to come out!


Originally Posted by thor363
Bumper is off, agreed much easier access.

Any tricks with the rear shackles?
Thor, c'mon buddy! You're no longer a rook here...and you know your way around this forum...and you know about the tech folder...and you know how we cover suspension tech here ad nauseum...yet you didn't peruse the many links for spring swaps before you tackled this? Oh dang, 20 demerits for you!

Stewart
 
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Old Sep 9, 2017 | 03:39 PM
  #22  
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Only 20 demerits, well... bless your heart!
 
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Old Sep 9, 2017 | 04:40 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by thor363
Only 20 demerits, well... bless your heart!
Tip the bouncer at the door and he'll get you some replacements.

Stewart
 
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Old Sep 9, 2017 | 09:29 PM
  #24  
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Stewie, with all the threads on springs, I haven't yet seen one definitive answer to whether to use the 3.5 taper blocks to get the correct pinion angle. What say you moderator king?
 
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Old Sep 9, 2017 | 10:36 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by thor363
Stew, with all the threads on springs, I haven't yet seen one definitive answer to whether to use the 3.5 taper blocks to get the correct pinion angle. What say you moderator king?
I've said it many times, but contained in posts so far back in the early threads that they're probably lost somewhere, buried deep in the forum. But to answer your question, yes, short of doing it the correct way, the general rule of thumb when swapping in V's or X's, is to use either the tapered blocks, or the modded B codes in order to minimize the risk of drive line vibration caused by pinion angles being too far out of spec.

Stewart

PS - Stew or Stewart, please.
 
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