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Put the Ex into the garage tonight to start the x code install up front. Oh the fun you can have even with a rust free Ex. The strut bar that runs in front/under the rad cradle is not coming out soon. Two things to note when doing this job I think. Make sure you have 6 jack stands, 2 per side and 2 for the front bar, and a good hardwood block for the top of the jack to give some extra height to unload that suspension. I got 5 out of 6 of the bolts out that hold that front bar, and the 6th starting spinning freely once it started to loosen. Of course it's a stud type of bolt and has a rounded head, so once it starts moving you can't back off the nut without welding the dang thing back onto the retaining plate. In search of a small portable welder now to get this done. All other bolts are loosened off with the last issue being this unseated stud. I may cut it off if I can find a donor plate and studs for the drivers side. I have the new Bilsteins shocks and stabilizer (shocks now undone at lower bolt to allow full suspension travel), the new stabilizer in, the new sway bar bushings on the bar ready to go back up, and I doubt it will take all that long to do this swap at this point if I can get past this. Forget vise grips to hold it and hitting it with the impact. It's going to spin until welded to the plate I think. Enough for tonight. I'm not sure why I ordered the new hardware kit and u-bolts since the old stuff is in perfect shape and easy to undo. Someone shoot me!
seriously, I just did my front leafs in last 1-2 months.
Take the nut off the front 2 retaining bolts for the leafs. You may have to remove the 2 lower rubber mounts for the trans cooler. 10mm? or so. That will allow clearance for the bolt to clear
after you disconnect the axle from leafs, pull the rear shackle bolts out. That will release tension on the front of the leafs. the bolts should slip out pretty easily. then simply pull the leafs backwards and out.
The blocker beam has zero impact on removal or install
if you are doing this with the bumper installed, then yes that blocker beam has to go. But the bumper is stupid easy to remove and re-install. Plus it'll give you room to torque those easier
in my pic above, the 3/8" drive ratchet that is attached to the bolt (left of the jack handle). that is the lower mount I mentioned that may need to be removed to clearance the leaf bolt
My rig is kinda crusty underneath. Learned the hard way to wear goggles. Hopefully yours isn't terrible in that manner
best of luck, remember to not torque anything until the tire are back on and truck is "ready to drive". If you torque before that, you will set preload on the rubber bushings. At a minimum it will make the suspension squeak. I've seen it do crazy things. On my 2002 I torqued it when the axle was at full droop. gave me almost 1" extra lift due to the binding. confused the heck out of me when I loosened and retorqued at ride height later on...How do you lose an 1" of lift?....lol
Tylus is giving you good info, never touched my blocker beam during my spring swap either.
All new hardware and U bolts makes for a nice clean installation, even on a rust free rig, and you always want to use new U bolts as they shouldn't be reused.
I pulled my bumper to do mine. It really should be a two person job to avoid the bumper rotating an scratching things up. Thankfully my scratch buffed out.
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