1995 F150. New cables, battery good (haven't checked voltage---but retailer checked and said it was good). Replaced solenoid on the fender. I read through several posts on this site yesterday and found info to "jump across" the solenoid with a scredriver. The truck would start jumping across the solenoid, but not with they key. We originally thought loose connection to battery--replaced cables and solenoid and still won't start. I have also read to only use ford motorcraft solenoids. If I'm able to jump across it and it starts, what does that mean? We just purchased a cheap solenoid from local retailer...could it be bad? Could battery be good, yet terminal may be bad. We were able to get it started couple days ago by cleaning the negative terminal and moving things around???? Thanks....frustrated....

 

I had a issue like this and it turned out to be the neutral safety switch on the transmission... I replaced that and good to go.... Can also find ways to by pass it if you want to save money.... Worth a look..

 

When this all started....my son was driving the truck and it just shut down. Towed it home. Discovered a plug on the alternator was lose?? Started messing with the battery cables and the truck started. Ran a few days....then back to nothing...won't crank, etc. We've never had engine problems and after shorting across the solenoid it started up fine. It is manual transmission and we have replaced the neutral safety switch (a year ago)and have checked it out...seems to be on snug.

 

When you say "jump across" do you mean from big terminal on one side to the big terminal on the other side? If so, what happens when you apply 12V to the little terminal in the middle?

 

After reading posts yesterday. Someone suggested placing a screwdriver on the two large posts on the solenoid, said if the truck started, then solenoid bad???. Everything is hooked up on the solenoid. With the old solenoid and the replaced solenoid, when screwdriver was placed on the 2 brass posts....the truck started.

 

Wish we could say we bought this vehicle as a "project truck"....that is what it has turned into....everytime we take it to the mechanic it's $300. Trying to troubleshoot before we go back. Was hoping for easy fix. We've had terrible trouble with the clutch assembly...still having issues...but was driveable until this happened. Tried starting in neutral-no luck...instrument panel lights, but no crank. Tried starting in 1st....no luck...power, no crank. Is there an easy way to bypass the neutral safety switch???

 

When it starts by jumping the solenoid I'd start thinking the ignition switch could be the problem.

 

The Red/Light Blue wire energizes the starter relay mounted on the passenger side fender. Power comes from Fuse J located in the engine compartment fuse box.

When turning the Ignition switch from Run to Start power from Fuse 7 is sent via the Red/Light Blue wire to the Clutch interlock switch. If the truck is equipped with Anti-Theft power has to make it through that module before going to the Starter relay.

Since the last thing "touched" was the clutch assembly I would start there. Get a test light to verify power is making it to that assembly. If that is good, have someone push the clutch in and verify power is leaving. As a precautionary measure I suggest you remove the Red/Light Blue wire from the starter relay.

 

If you put 12V to the little terminal that has the red/light blue wire on it, and the truck starts, then the solenoid is not the problem. The problem is that something else is preventing the truck from sending 12V down that line when you turn the key, such as the clutch safety switch. You must find this out before you start tearing into other stuff.

 

Had a similar problem on a 93 f150. It started with the pedal assembly. Eventually it wore enough that the cluth safety switch would not compress enough. If you look under the dash it just clips in. You can unclip it and manually pull it out and try to start the truck. Not something I would want to do Everytime but one more thing you can eliminate.

 

Are you getting any sort of noise when you turn the ignition key, or nothing at all?

 

Aftermarket soloenoids are junk. They simply do not work. I had a similar issue with my 89 and it took 3 solenoids before I figured it out. The aftermarket have 4 posts and you want the 3 post Motocraft solenoid. Hope this helps.

 

The neutral safety switch is the problem. There is play in the clutch....and once the neutral safety switch slides down the part it is connected to, it will not start. If we pull the safety switch further up on the "??arm??" (sorry I don't know what it's called) and push in the clutch, another person turns the key and it starts.....so we have narrowed it down. How can we make sure the safety switch stays at the top of that ??arm/rod? etc???

 

I would fix the play in the pedals. It is likely a worn out bushing. I had this issue on mine. The hole on the right side of the bracket was ovaled. I drilled it bigger and used a bronze bushing instead of the original plastic one. If you pull the safety switch out you will be able to start the truck in gear without the clutch pushed in. Unless you are sure you will always push in the cluth or be in neutral I wouldnt go that route.