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Solenoid Problem

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Old Aug 22, 2015 | 04:13 PM
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Solenoid Problem

I have a 1981 Ford RV with a 460 engine. It has a solenoid on passenger sidewall inside the engine compartment and one on the driver sidewall inside the engine compartment. It has a bigger battery on the passenger side and a smaller battery on the driver's side. I tried to start the RV's generator and it would not turn. I went check to the batteries and both were fully charged. I noticed that the solenoid on the drivers side was partially melted and that is probably why the generator would not turn over. It had turned over and started the day before. Could anyone please tell me what could have caused the solenoid to partially melt? Someone suggested that I get a continuous duty solenoid, which is more expense. But I would still like to know what could have caused the melt down. Thanks.
 
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Old Aug 22, 2015 | 06:38 PM
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If the melted solenoid is original or old it might have stuck in the engaged position, passing much more current for a longer period of time than ever anticipated. Does it appear to be an orginal Ford part or perhaps one the RV converted added?

Its also possible the switch engaging the solenoid has developed a short leading to the constant "on" condition. Check it for positive make and break action; don't want to install a new part only to have to fail due a bad start switch.

It being a start-only solenoid it probably isn't necessary to install a continuous duty type. Do use a good brand though---I prefer NAPA's better quality line, your budget might dictate otherwise.

Let us know what you discover---could be helpful to someone else down the line.
 
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Old Aug 22, 2015 | 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by JWA
If the melted solenoid is original or old it might have stuck in the engaged position, passing much more current for a longer period of time than ever anticipated. Does it appear to be an orginal Ford part or perhaps one the RV converted added?

Its also possible the switch engaging the solenoid has developed a short leading to the constant "on" condition. Check it for positive make and break action; don't want to install a new part only to have to fail due a bad start switch.

It being a start-only solenoid it probably isn't necessary to install a continuous duty type. Do use a good brand though---I prefer NAPA's better quality line, your budget might dictate otherwise.

Let us know what you discover---could be helpful to someone else down the line.

Thanks for responding. The solenoid is not original and is about three years old. I replaced it when I got the RV at that time because it had the original then and I also replaced the other solenoid as well. I was advised that I could use a NAPA ST85 solenoid, but I will check out what you advised to do. Don't want to spend on that solenoid and then have it melt down too. Thanks again.
 
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Old Aug 23, 2015 | 06:15 AM
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Not familiar with that particular solenoid---who suggested its use? (Just curious is all........)

Please let us know what you eventually discover---I don't think we've had this or even a similar issue since I've been here. Any info you could add might be helpful down the road to another E-Series RV owner.
 
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Old Aug 23, 2015 | 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by JWA
Not familiar with that particular solenoid---who suggested its use? (Just curious is all........)

Please let us know what you eventually discover---I don't think we've had this or even a similar issue since I've been here. Any info you could add might be helpful down the road to another E-Series RV owner.

From someone who stated that where he works they have replaced the solenoids on vehicles with this type because of their heavy duty function. He stated that they are listed as working on Dodge vehicles, but in the literature on NAPA online it states that they can be used on golf carts and RVs. I was not going to install it unless I ran it by others on the forum to see if anyone had any info. You may look it up on the NAPA online and see what it states and let me know what you think. Thanks for responding.
 
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Old Aug 23, 2015 | 09:55 AM
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That particular part is supposedly rated as continuous duty which would make it very well suited to the golf carts or other similar lengthy on duty cycles. For starting only it would be a bit of over kill, the NAPA ST80 probably being a bit cheaper but suitable for this application.

Not really sure why it has an RV designation---use and/or duty cycle would be the most important aspects to compare.

Remember if your RV and the generator sit idle for long periods of time you could possibly experience this again, even with the new part.

Also make sure the interior Gen Start switch is opening and closing with the toggle or rocker actuator---we discussed that earlier on.

Let us know how this works out!
 
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Old Aug 23, 2015 | 10:11 AM
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Thanks for the response. I will also check the interior Gen start. Will let you all know how it works out.
 
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Old Aug 23, 2015 | 07:51 PM
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Continuous duty solenoid's are also used on snow plows (electric pump motors) there only a couple $$$ more, if a regular duty solenoid is used, it last about a week, or less. Been there, done that.

From what your writing, you might have just got a bad after market solenoid to start with *pun intended*

One way to "check" a solenoid is to ark the two posts with a screwdriver, if the item starts, then you know the solenoid is bad, but you wrote that is melted down, and it might be a good idea to check the source of that, you could have a bad ground, or a bad positive cable causing over load on the voltage, which caused the melt down.
 
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Old Aug 23, 2015 | 10:19 PM
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Thanks for the reply. I'll check both cables to make sure there is no problem with them.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2015 | 08:10 AM
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Check the wiring for the generator, where does it get power from? You system sounds the same as my 1989 Ford rig, but the generator itself has a started solenoid, and is wired directly to the aux battery. If they were wired through one of your underhood solenoids, they will not be able to handle the starting current, hence the meltdown.
One solenoids ties the two batteries together while engine running to charge them, but isolates the batteries when engine stopped so engine battery not depleted. Second solenoid is an emergency one that will tie both batteries together if chassis battery dead. Mine also has 40 amp circuit breakers protecting these circuits, but again generator feed wired direct
 
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Old Aug 24, 2015 | 09:34 AM
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Thanks for responding. When I have disconnected the aux. battery on the underhood driver's side the generator will not crank. That is the solenoid that had the meltdown. Looks like there may be a problem with way the generator starting system was wired. This may be a problem that someone with automotive or RV experience has to work on. Thanks again for the info.
 
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Old Aug 27, 2015 | 07:28 PM
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FordRv1981 -

I know you said that you might be going someplace to have this checked out.

I was researching something on my van, and I came across this......

What that solenoid is, or should be is actually an duel battery relay, or Battery Isolation Solenoid, and you should have a volt rating higher than a standard solenoid, like 200 volts.

That could be causing the melt down, as your just have a standard solenoid in place, and upgrading to the higher voltage Isolation Solenoid, where the alternator is charging both battery's at the same time, direct current at all times, is causing the melt down.

If your generator is not starting, it could be that the aux battery is not charged from the alternator, because the voltage is not getting to it thru the bad solenoid.
 
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Old Aug 28, 2015 | 11:38 AM
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Neither solenoid has anything to do with the generator starting.
The solenoid on the passenger fender is for cranking the RV engine (460 or 351).
The solenoid on the drivers side is for tying the two batteries together for charging as you drive.

The generator is wired right to AUX battery and has its own starting solenoid at the generator.
The generator may have a starter or it may use its winding for cranking.

If it uses its winding for cranking you may have a brush problem. If this is the case you need to take the brushes out and measure them and replace them if necessary.

What model generator do you have?
If it is an Onan model BFA it does not have a starter.
 
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Old Aug 28, 2015 | 02:35 PM
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Thanks to both Wildman25 and subford for their responses. I am having some other work done on the RV, which is not electrical. Once I get the RV back I will have to check it out according to the comments I received. So I'll get back to you all at a later date after I can check out the RV's solenoids. Thanks again to everyone for you responses and I'll post whatever problems I find.
 
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Old Sep 10, 2015 | 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by subford
Neither solenoid has anything to do with the generator starting.
The solenoid on the passenger fender is for cranking the RV engine (460 or 351).
The solenoid on the drivers side is for tying the two batteries together for charging as you drive.

The generator is wired right to AUX battery and has its own starting solenoid at the generator.
The generator may have a starter or it may use its winding for cranking.

If it uses its winding for cranking you may have a brush problem. If this is the case you need to take the brushes out and measure them and replace them if necessary.

What model generator do you have?
If it is an Onan model BFA it does not have a starter.
Finally got the RV back today. I check the generator's model tag and it has 4DBFA-1R 4.0 RV Genset. This older model RV has had a bunch of things go wrong with it and that is to be expected. Hope that with time all the bugs can be worked out and be a useful RV. I know it has a 460 engine and not great gas mileage, but with gas prices going down that helps.
Will check other things out on the RV as time and the weather allows. Thanks to all again fir their input.
 
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