I have to agree with beast, , unplug the coil and bump the starter for about ten seconds and wait 3 seconds do it again for about 5 x. Even though you have lube on everything its better to get the oil into the top before those rpms at idle kick in.

I just fired up and broke in part ways my engine on Sat, Im getting ready to go back out and do it again to finish the break in.
I kind of screwed this part up but i think Ill still be ok.
When I started it and got it warm i then kicked up the rpm to 2000 to 2300 back and forth for 10 mins. So i still have about 20 mins left of break in time left.

I also want to bring this in. I talked to a high performance shop and this is the oil they recommend. When they build a motor and as long as the customer uses this oil they will guarantee the motor to 100,000 miles. because of the high zinc and phosphorus protection it has.




Here is so info on it. " The oil carries both the American Petroleum Institute (API) diesel "C" rating as well as the API gasoline engine "S" rating. Ratings differ based on the oil. Rotella oils like T3 15w-40 meets both the API CJ-4 and SM specifications, and may be used in both gasoline and diesel engines. However, it is formulated specifically for vehicles without catalytic converters, containing phosphorus levels beyond the 600-800ppm range.[1] Therefore, Rotella is not recommended for gasoline vehicles with catalytic converters due to the higher risk of damaging these emission controls.[2] Newer formulations of Rotella T6 however are API SM rated as safe for pre-2011 gasoline vehicles.


This part tells what is in it.
"Shell is marketing their new CJ-4/SM oil as "Triple Protection," meaning it provides enhanced qualities for engine wear, soot control and engine cleanliness. Shell's Rotella website indicates that on-road testing confirms the new Triple Protection technology produces better anti-wear characteristics than their existing CI-4+ rated Rotella oil. This is achieved despite a lower zinc and phosphorus additive level as called for by the API CJ-4 specification. (The 15W-40 Rotella T with Triple Protection oil has approximately 1200 ppm of zinc and 1100 ppm phosphorus at the time of manufacture.)"

I hope this helps
"

 

Don't worry about the priming. I have never primed a engine like some people say you have to and have never had a problem, BUT I lube every bearing with lots of white assembly grease. That's what its designed to do, provide a protective layer til oil pressure gets there. Everytime you start a engine the bearings only have a thin layer of oil on em, assembly lube is much thicker than the oil film, you ill be fine.


plenty of white grease til the oil gets there.

 

Thanks for the replies fellas.

I'm surprised at how much discussion this thread sparked regarding oil pump priming and motor priming on initial start-up.

I'm going to stick with what my engine builder tells me, in this case, it means not priming the motor, but priming the pump by hand before installing.

The engine is FULL of high quality assembly lubes. I really need to post a pic to show you guys what I mean.

Plus, I was given a fresh bottle of Clevite assembly lube: Clevite Engine Assembly Lube | JEGS

The pump will be hand-primed and full of Clevite assembly lube. So in theory, yes... there will be a moment, actually two moments, when there's nothing coming through the oiling system. Once before the clevite in the oil pump passes through the system. Once again before the Joe Gibbs BR30 oil is making its way through the system.

Will I have metal-to-metal contact? It's not likely, but plausible.

Am I worried? Not really. The shop has been building motors for 25 + years, and uses this exact same method on every build that's ever walked out their door. Never once had an issue.

If I do have an issue, well, I guess then there's a first for everything.

I sincerely do appreciate the feedback though and I'll be keeping a very close eye on how everything turns out.

In fact, I plan on posting up photos of the motor in place before start-up to confirm a few things (distributor position specifically)... and if anything else looks fishy to anyone.

 

its easy to prime it with a drill in reverse. in my case my distibutor is not in so why not doing it for inssurance. this thread is helping me as well because this summer is gona be the break-in.

 

My engine builder got me to think about things logically and with a really good example.

Pour some oil onto a table.
Pour some engine assembly lube onto a table.

Dip a finger into the oil, and dip another finger into the assembly lube.

Hold both fingers upside down, and see what happens. The oil DOES stick to the surface it touches, but most of it quickly drips off.

The assembly lube stays exactly where it started.

Now think about your motor and priming the oiling system. The principle is the same. Your bearings and components will have lube on them in either case (oil or assembly lube), but which will drip off and leave the surface by the time you go to fire the motor?

My engine builder made it real easy by showing me this exact example before I picked up my motor. He dribbled 15W-40 and Clevite assembly lube (same stuff he assembled my motor with) onto the table and walked me through exactly how I explained above.

By the time we were done talking, I had a very small film of oil on my finger. Most of it had dripped off (15W-40...). The Clevite assembly lube never moved.

That's a pretty strong argument to NOT prime the motor. Yes, there will be an air pocket in the oiling system upon initial start-up. Will all of the assembly lube leave 100% of the bearing surface by the time that air pocket is taken up by fresh oil? Likely not.

If priming the motor was necessary 100% of the time, why don't we just assemble new motors dry? The oil replaces the assembly lube (the majority of the assembly lube) upon priming the motor. So what's the point? The point is you can achieve the same results with a different approach.

There's more than 1 way to skin a cat. I prefer blow torch lol

I'll post results of what happens when I try it this way. If I'm wrong, well, then I'm going back to my engine builder for round 2 and you can all say "I told you so".

 

"Now think about your motor and priming the oiling system. The principle is the same. Your bearings and components will have lube on them in either case (oil or assembly lube), but which will drip off and leave the surface by the time you go to fire the motor?

My engine builder made it real easy by showing me this exact example before I picked up my motor. He dribbled 15W-40 and Clevite assembly lube (same stuff he assembled my motor with) onto the table and walked me through exactly how I explained above.

By the time we were done talking, I had a very small film of oil on my finger. Most of it had dripped off (15W-40...). The Clevite assembly lube never moved."

That's fine if you have a static engine...one that just sets there and looks pretty, and has a rotating assembly that will never move, a cam that doesn't move, berrins that will never see action, lifters on the cam lobe will stay where they are, etc, etc.

Things ain't gonna be static when you're crankin' over the engine and it takes 5 seconds to fire with no oil pressure.......hope the good goop maintains it's quality of not "moving."

But, to each, his own.................

How many licks does it take to get to the center of a Tootsie Pop?

 

So here is a website that talks about assembly lube and it makes the same points that your builder does, if you read down at the Engine Break-In Recommendations
It says this The engine’s oil system should be primed before the engine is cranked and started to prevent a dry start.

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2014...ly-lube-needs/

 

.......364

 

Hey kopfenjager....

What's your take on Lubriplate?

 

With the engine assembled using assembly lube (a.k.a. thick gooey oil ), and the oil pump primed, you'll be good to go.

Filling the oil filter with oil prior to installing it speeds up things.

 

Never heard of lubriplate. I have always used white lithium grease for bearings, cam break in lube on the lobes of the cam and engine oil on the cylinder walls.