I'm a little ahead of myself here... doing some research on how to properly break in my engine for the first time when it comes back from the shop.

I like my research, and I like to do stuff once. And only once (the right way).

So I turn to you fellas...

What's the step-by-step instructions on breaking in an engine? Keep in mind, my motor will not have a tuned carb, not have timing set (no dyno run), and be completely dry when it gets to me.

I've done a fair bit of reading online regarding timing, fuel octanes, break-in procedures, synthetic oils, coolant, and cam break-in procedures. Even tho I've done all that reading, I still want advice.

I'll be running:
91 octane fuel from the get-go
50/50 coolant mix (distilled water + the green stuff)
Oil/Additives are still up in the air (looking for suggestions).
Eventually I'll run Rotella T6 synthetic oil after break-in is complete (unless otherwise suggested of course).

This came up in a quick google search, and I'm wondering how it fairs against what you'll suggest Engine Break-in Procedure:

"ATK High Performance Engines Break-in Procedure

Ensure all accessories (headers, alt, power steering pump, etc) are tight and check for any water /oil leaks. Even if your engine came complete, it’s best to check all major components such as Distributor, Spark Plugs, Wires, Carburetor etc as it could have been damaged or disturbed during shipping.

1. You will need to fill the engine with oil as they are shipped dry (Unless otherwise noted). When installing an oil filter, fill it about 1/2 way with oil and lube the rubber gasket the surrounds the filter with oil, than tighten by hand. We recommend WIX or other premium brand oil filters. A cheap filter will not be cheap if it costs an engine. We recommend Joe Gibbs Racing Oil BR orBR30 especially in flat tappet engines, if this is not available to you than a 5w30 or 10w30 with an engine break in additive (ZDDP, or
ZINC camshaft additive) will do. It is best to prime the oil system with an engine priming tool or a Pre Luber offered by ATK even if the engine has been dyno tested.

2. If you plan on running synthetic oils, we recommend that a new engine is first broken in with regular mineral type engine oil and 4000+ miles are put on the engine. If you fail to follow this procedure, the rings may never seat.

3. The distributor timing should be set if your engine was dyno tested and came with a dyno report, but occasionally it is disturbed during shipment. If your engine was complete, but not dyno tested you will still need to verify timing. Non Dyno tested engines come set at about 34-36 degrees without Vacuum Advance hooked up. DO NOT ASSUME because it fired up, it is correct. If the engine does not fire immediately you may need to recheck the timing.

4. Set the ignition timing after engine starts. Starting point for most carbureted engines is 34 degrees before top dead center with vacuum advance disconnected at 3000 rpm. Some experimentation with timing is required for optimum results with locally available fuel, but it should be between 32-38 BTDC.

5. Flat tappet hydraulic cams only - Run the engine between 2,000 and 2,500 RPM's, with no-load on the engine for the first 30 minutes. This is critical to break in the camshaft. We have usually performed this step at ATK if the Dyno Test and Tune option was purchased.

6. Roller Cam engines do not need to follow the procedure in step 5.

7. Remember that the cooling system on a fresh engine swap will have a lot of trapped air, which will lead to wild temperature gauge readings and possible water pump cavitations (water pump not moving coolant due to trapped air) To help avoid trapped air in the cooling system, try to fill the cooling system up with a 50/50 mix of quality coolant and water a few hours before you plan on starting the engine. Leave the radiator cap off during this time. This will tend to help purge a fair amount of trapped air before you start the engine. Also helpful during break-in is to use a Lever-Vent type radiator cap on your radiator in so that you can manually purge trapped air while engine is running- (use extreme caution to avoid being burned by hot coolant). Your normal cap can then be reinstalled after engine cools off.

8. Drive the vehicle with varying speeds and loads on the engine for the first 200 miles. Occasional full throttle runs from a rolling start (2000 rpm or so) to 4500 will help seat things. This does not mean every other start and the engine should be cooled after doing this. At around 150 -200 miles, it is wise to check the rockers / valve clearance to insure adjusters are tight and lash is proper (do this again at 500 miles).

The following two steps are not necessary, but may help speed up the break-in process.

9. After the initial 200 miles run five or six medium-throttle accelerations to about 4500 RPM (observing local laws of course), then letting off in gear and coasting back down to 20 MPH.

10. Run a couple hard throttle accelerations up to about 5000 RPM, then letting off in gear and coasting back down to 20 MPH.

11. Let engine cool and change the oil and filter and check coolant level, top off if necessary.

12. Drive the next 500 miles normally, without high RPM's (below 5000 RPM), hard use, or extended periods of high loading. It is best to avoid long periods of idling during this period.

13. Change the oil and oil filter again. At this point, you should be able to run a quality synthetic oil if you choose.

If you have any questions please call our ATK Tech Line @ 800-421-3746."

The only thing I will likely add to this list of stuff is breaking it in is more oil changes. Likely at 500km, 1000km, 2500km, and 5000km unless someone suggestions a difference approach.

What do you guys think?

Remember, my carb will have a fresh rebuild and may not be tuned 100% correctly - I don't know how that will factor in to all of this.

 

A lot of guys will run straight water for break in. Easier clean up if there are some leaks to take care of.

 

Oooo great suggestion.

Any disadvantages to using straight water in the block on break-in?

Running straight water for the first 5000 kms could be dicey if temps get too high.

 

Basically no. Water alone is actually a better coolant, it would be preferred except that there's no corrosion protection, and of course then there's that whole frozen & cracked block deal thing going on in the winter. So don't install straight water and then let it sit for weeks or months.

And don't forget. If you live someplace that it gets cold*, a hard freeze and disaster strikes. This has happened more than once. Maybe put a red tag or something on the filler neck to remind yourself

It is true that with a pressurized system and 50/50 water and coolant mix that boilover protection is increased to 275°F (or whatever the number) but the engine will be scrap metal, ruined long before it ever gets that hot so...

* I checked your profile and Saskatchawan definitely qualifies ha ha

 

In the case of the 400, wouldn't it be more efficient to use coolant + water upon break-in?

If I run straight water, there's a very good chance not all of it will come back out once I'm done break-in. It's not like there's a drain plug at the bottom of the block somewhere to drain all of the water.

Getting a perfect 50/50 mix after break-in would prove difficult with the left-over water stuck inside the block.

Maybe I'm missing something though.



Beyond the water/coolant discussion, is there anything else to consider for breaking in an engine that goes beyond what was mentioned in my original post?

 

It's not rocket science, 50/50 is a commonly used ratio, but running a little hotter than that is probably warranted that far north, but if you're not exact on the ratio it's not a major deal. Be sure to test annually for freeze protection though.

I'd say you're tracking pretty well with your list(s). I like to source a lot of different lists or procedures for something like that, no matter what it is. Should be able to find a half dozen or so online without breaking a sweat. They should all be pretty similar, but usually there will be one or two suggestions that stand out, and should be incorporated into your own list. What not to do is often just as important. Learn what to avoid, and a lot of it will take care of itself. Attention to detail, double check everything. A second set of eyes to go over your work, and help out when the Banner Day arrives. Keep distractions to a bare minimum - the spectators and little kids, pets, and wack jobs &c as far away as practicable. The key is have everything set to nominal or nearly so - ignition timing and carb - so it starts right up and pretty much go straight to engine break-in for 20+ minutes without burning up a starter and battery trying to figure out why it won't start.

 

Quick question for everyone...

When setting in a distributor (on a fresh rebuilt motor)... initial timing I want is roughly 10 - 12 degress BTDC for initial start-up. Correct?

** Basically I'll be tossing the distributor in the block, dizzy rotor pointed at the #1 spark plug wire (stock plug locations on the cap), and have the timing pointer set at 10-12 degress BTDC. **

I'm in the process of reviewing everything I need to do before I turn the motor over. Want to get it all correct the first time.

 

12* BTDC will get you started.....make sure #1 piston is at TDC on the compression stroke.

If you have a cam that's a bit "bigger" than the stock specs, the ignition timing will want to be a bit more advanced to make the engine happy.

You can do this after the 30 minute break in....20-30 minutes at 1500 -2500 RPMS, varying it. Then, while she's at idle, you can check the timing, fine tune the mixture, etc.

I like to hook up a vacuum gauge before break in and watch it during the break in process. It will tell you the condition of the engine while running. Then you can adjust the timing, mixture, and note what inches Hg you have at idle.....

 

Definitely on the compression stroke for the above procedure.

When first starting the engine for the cam break-in, vacuum advance is connected to the dizzy, correct?

I don't see a reason why it should be disconnected, but thought I'd ask.

I'm going to need several sets of hands to get this motor up and running correctly... and to monitor while everything is happening. So many gauges/needles to watch LOL

 

Yessuh, Vacuum advance is connected during break in....

Are you going to take a video of her during break in and after?

 

Tempted to.

I'd need to buy myself a go-pro or something that could handle 30 minutes of video.

Cellphones don't cut it when it comes to that large of a file size.

Any suggestions on video equipment? haha.

 

Will you be assembling the engine yourself ?

If yes, ensure that you use the thick gooey oil, specifically for engine builds, on parts like the cam lobes and lifters.

Torque every bolt to the manufacturers specs.

Note the requirement to retorquing the cylinder heads after the break in.

Read the cam manufacturer break in instructions and follow them to the T.

That said, also read the cam spring manufacturers instructions.

My comp cam springs stated heat up and allow to cool.

It only takes 5 minutes to heat up, so I ran my engine for 5 minutes only, on the hour, every hour, for 6 hours. (Totally fine to do this.)

Double check your dizzy position as it's easy to install 180 degrees out !

If you're firing up your engine in a garage, leave the door open as there will be a f$$k load of smoke initially. (Oil in the bores etc burning off.)

50/50 coolant/distilled water is perfect, and won't need replacing until the 24,000 mile/24 month limit, or whatever it is.

After firing it up, if you are not happy about something, turn the engine off.
No harm done.

Once fired up and you see oil pressure on the oil pressure gauge, concentrate on the rev counter, revving regularly as already stated, and on the coolant temp gauge.

Have fun !

 

Nope. Long block was assembled for me. Just throwing the extra stuff on (intake, pan, valve covers, oh... and painting everything lol).

Already have engine assembly lube and break-in oils on everything. I won't be priming the motor, just the oil pump. Oil pump will be primed with high quality Clevite assembly lube.

I know most guys shy away from skipping the priming step on the motor, but literally every component has been assembled with a break-in oil or an engine assembly lube on it before it was torqued down.

None of my parts currently has direct metal-to-metal contact in the block. Each has a very high quality lubricant between each wearing surface (each push rod end, each rocker arm, each bearing, etc...)

Never thought about the cam springs or cylinder head bolt retorque. Great info!!!

Just as an FYI, I have ARP stuff on the majority of my parts (except for main bearings).

I'll be triple checking the dizzy and all the components before I pull the trigger. First engine break-in ever - I'm going to take it slow

Definitely will have fun! I'll be running Zerex G05. Mix will be 60/40 because we get down to -50 Celsius here in the winter (won't be driving it in the winter).

That's what my friends will be for lol (watching gauges and helping out).

Should be a good time! I've tried to prepare myself as much as possible before initial start happens. Don't think there's such a thing as being over-prepared in this case lol.

And I won't forget about opening the garage door either

 

Nothing wrong with Clevite and ARP goodies !

Sounds like the long block was assembled properly.

Just thought about this :

Just prior to start up, fill the carb bowls, pump the gas pedal twice and fill up the bowls again.

Don't stress too much, and don't second guess yourself. Easily done !

Ummm, at -50 celsius, leave the door closed !!!

 

I won't be priming the motor, just the oil pump.

YIKES!!! I think you're making a mistake in not priming the engine!

What do you think is going to happen to all that good goop on the cam lobes (and other moving parts) when you turn the engine from 0* to 90* to 260* when setting the preload?

Even if the oi filter is full when you put it on, there's still ZERO oil in the passages from the pump to the filter to the #1 main and #1 cam berrin journal to the lifter tunnels that need to be filled before proper oil pressure can develop.

That can take 3-4 seconds of engine cranking, mebbe starting, before oil will get where it needs to be.

During that cranking time, what's happening to the break-in goop with no oil to help the metal on metal rubbing?