I read this article that HT32BSX115 posted in another thread about lifter failure:
Eaton Balancing » Camshaft and Lifter Failure Causes

It got me to thinking I'd better start my rebuilt engine. Problem is, This is my first ever total rebuild and I've never had to break in an engine. Does anyone have any guidelines for the proper method? Should I use break-in oil? Should I run it hard for a specific length of time? I guess I've watched enough programming on the Velocity channel to be very unsure. I was kind of waiting until I had all the new wiring, gas lines and the whole thing, but Ted's article made me think otherwise.

 

That article is related to cam break in.

You don't need a break in oil. Use whatever you plan to run.

Do your best to have it setup so it will start immediately. Make sure the timing is close and the carburetor is in good condition.

Prime the oil system by removing the distributor and turning the pump shaft with a drill. there are tools made for that but you can also do it with a long bit extender from Home Depot or the like, or a 1/4" drive extension and 1/4" socket.

Install an oil pressure gauge and have it where you can see it.

When you have it primed and setup to start immediately, start it and run it at about 2000rpm for a total of 20 minutes.

Pay attention to what the engine is doing. If pressure suddenly drops or is inadequate to begin with, shut it off and find out what is going on. If the sound changes (rpm picks up or slows down, you start to hear a ticking or knocking, etc.) shut it down and find out why.

You do not need to get that 20 minutes of run time in all at once. You just need a total. It's ok to stop the engine, particularly if something does not seem right. If you stop it in time, there may be no damage and it may be a problem that is easily solved but if you just keep going while the engine is telling you to stop, you will probably cause significant damage. If you have to stop it, take note of the time that has passed, resolve the problem and then continue.

 

lube the "h" out of everything, when you installed your oil pump make sure you filled it with oil and primed it prior to install....many like to spin the pump to push oil throughout the engine system......IMHO, doesn't make that big of importance as you can accomplish the same thing by just spinning the engine over with the starter. Prime the carb, have a large towel and a fire extinguisher nearby....start the engine outside of the garage..never inside. A garden hose on standby is not a bad idea either asin addition to a potential fire issue it can be used to spray a cooling mist in the radiator if needed.

I would not fill with coolant, only clear water initially.....flush afterwards and then fill with coolant mix. There is typically small leaks......after the engine warms up they will typically go away from expansion or re-torqueing/tightening all the bolts, etc.

Upon initial fire-up, run at a steady 2000 rpm for 20 minutes.....that is your initial valvetrain/cam/piston rigs & bearings break-in/seating. Make basic tuning adjustments during this period but don't get into "fine tuning"......watch engine temp oil pressure carefully...very normal to run a little warm/pushing towards hot because the engine journals are tight....fix any leaks that are simple and make notation of any more. After the 20 minutes....adjust the idle to just above where the engine is comfortable....likely around 800-1300 rpm....could vary.......shut the engine down....let it completely cool. Retighten all bolts, clamps, etc.....including head bolts. Flush the radiator and fill with coolant mix. When you take it for your 1st drive, go slow (25 mph max) and keep the rpms at the bottom of the power band, avoid traffic...you want a nice steady drive initially.......when you get about 25 miles on her, dump the oil....and again at 100 miles, 500 miles and 1000 miles....of course, IMHO & experience. After the 1st 100 miles, then gently start taking her up in speed and vary the speed gently. At the 500 mile mark, with the exception of the piston rings, the internals should be seated...at 1000 miles the rings should be fully seated as well......now you can gently start bringing up the rpm.

 

The reason for turning the pump with a drill, rather than using the starter is to prevent wiping the assembly lube from the cam lobes and lifters before the engine is actually started. You want to turn the engine over as little as possible before you start it up.

 

That's very helpful, but all this info means a lot more rounding up of parts, radiator, hoses and all the normal stuff. I don't even have a working alternator or generator yet. Gas tank is not in, so there is no plumbing for the gas lines. I've seen cars run on tv with just a temporary gas set up, but I'm not too comfortable with that.

I've already run the pump with a drill, but not lately, so I suppose it would be good to do it again.

Is it a big deal if I can't reach the 2000 rpm initially? I have changed over to an autolite 4100 carb set up and I have no idea how well it's going to run. Additionally, the valve lash will need to be adjusted. Will the cold adjustment be good enough to run it 20 minutes?

 

Once it is running, you need to get the rpm up as soon as possible.

Cold lash will be sufficient for break in. Check and adjust hot, after break in.

 

All good feedback, thanks. One last question, if I don't need break-in oil, is it imperative to not use it and only use normal 10W-30 or 10W-40. I may have jumped the gun by filling the crankcase with synthetic break-in oil!

 

If it is already in there, then use it. However, you did jump the gun by not having it ready for use. Depending on how long it has been in the engine already and how much longer it will be until you actually run it, I may drain it and start with fresh oil when I am ready to fire it up.