I'm thinking back about 14 years, when I added that accumulator tank. Memory was a little foggy above.


Really did not solve my issue, because my pressure regulator was capable of back-flowing. I can watch the small dial on my water meter, and when there is zero water usage in the house, it will slowly rock back and forth. Which means that water is flowing in and out of the house, which is by design in our area. Basically the entire city water system is our pressure buffer.


But other areas of the country do things differently, and if your area requires a back-flow preventer on the water inlet, basically a check-valve, you need an accumulator tank inside. Otherwise your T&P will surely spew a little, if your washing machine hoses don't blow first.


So I did not really need the accumulator as it turned out. When we moved in here, the water heater was a noisy beast. When heating it would moan and groan and clunk. To the point that my daughter whose bedroom was the adjoining room, would be annoyed. I was afraid it was going to burst. After doing some plumbing with copper flex supply lines, new pressure regulator, and otherwise trying to quiet it down, I installed the accumulator. Did not make any difference really. Still banged away.


Couple years ago that water heater finally started leaking. So I replaced it and the new unit was quiet from day one. Makes no noise other than the hiss of the flame. My conclusion is that the old one was just a cheap contractor special and poorly designed, and it still outlasted the warranty by a good margin.


Marc, I think we may go with the tankless next time. Since the government changed the mandate, I don't think the new water heaters are going to fit in my enclosure. Might as well go tankless then. Would clean up that corner of the laundry room nicely too.

 

Hello Sean, is your water heater piped in with galvanized or Copper? Dollars to donuts it’s never been flushed , most water heaters are glass lined but all the minerals over the years will rust out the bottom of the tank , the inlet and out let better known as supply Somtimes gets installed with galvanized nipples to copper instead to brass , causing Electrolysis ,pin holes will form or if long enough the corrosion will decay, also the drain valve , I’ve seen them so full of calcium build up the drain was like concrete , I ended up getting some young bucks to move the thing out side for me .

 

Thx again Scott, Bill & Pop; looking at all the corrosion and build-up on the cold water intake (evidence of leakage everywhere, but currently dry), I noted that green/white connection feels wet and is likely dripping down on the inside of the tank or cover and pooling beneath the w.h. Seems like if I clean up that connection and re-seal, it'll be ok?

T&P looks clean and dry on the bottom & outside.

My first PVC flue. . It heads sideways 10' to get outside at the bottom of the house siding.

 

Yeah, that inlet is surely the problem. Not sure if it has damaged the tank threads.


I've never seen a flue like that either. Is that a ventilation fan to push the gasses out? Or does it just cool the gas somehow?

 

It's an exhaust pusher (power vent) due to the long lateral run - fumes might leak into the basement (backdraft, buoyancy of hot air, or atmospheric pressure difference not big enough?).

 

In other ‘new’ house news, the ice cube delivery door stays open partially, but not enough to let a cube out nor crushed ice. This also causes freezing of the fresh water line so we have neither.

I opened it up and found the door actuator to be stuck. Ordered a new one. With the solenoid out, the ice cube door now closes and water is flowing again.

 

Looks like they went copper to galvanized, no brass in between, Id try and change that out as well on the WH, as said copper to galvanized will cause corrosion.

 

Wouldn't relocating the water heater be a good idea?

 

Thx Keith.

Where would it work better Jon?

 

I have no education or experience in water heaters, but a shorter run for the flu and sticking it into a corner may open up more space along the wall. Seems like it was put there because pvc is cheaper and easier than running longer water lines?

 

I think you're right.

 

Optimum water line location doesn't necessarily equate to good co-location for the flue.

PVC is only used because of the extreme thermal efficiency of the water heater. Almost all of the thermal energy is absorbed into the water, leaving only almost-cool combustion by-products to be removed, water vapor and carbon monoxide being the primary ones.

Sheet metal flue pipe could be used, but would rust out quickly.

Pop

 

Finally got the Excursion and Ranger trailer in the garage. Picked a relatively ‘warm’ day.

 

Happy to have the ‘warm-up idle’ kick in on these chilly mornings. William is our local expert. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...-idle-mod.html

 

That house just doesn't take a bad picture anywhere, huh?

I was saving this picture for when it was accurate, but it is a lie, because I haven't worn socks yet.