I have 1k on my truck and tried to use the manual 4X4 shifter last PM and this AM. I like to use 4X4 low with front hubs unlocked at the boat ramp. I read the manual as I've only had ESOF in the past. My question is should the shifter be way, way stiff and almost impossible to get into and out of 4X4 low? The dash message board seems useless as to what state I'm in 2H, 4H, N, 4L. I remember my 99' ESOF was a little finicky getting into 4X4 low, but this shifter is a bear! It feels like something form the 1930's not 2017. I've read the manual, tried it in neutral, tried at 3mph (hard to gauge as speedometer doesn't register that low speed)..... Just wondering if it is supposed to be like an arm wrestling crap shoot to get 4X4 low or is it normal? Should the dealer look at it? Thanks

 

I like to use 4 low too without the hubs locked. Mine is hard to shift as well but not as hard as your describing. In my experience it gets easier with time.

 

Correct me if I'm wrong but the manual 4x4 system requires locking the hubs manually for operation since there is no vacuum locking the hubs for you. I pretty sure the manual states DO NOT shift into 4x4 without having the hubs locked as it may cause damage. I have the manual 4x4 system and have no problems using it at all, as long as I get out and lock the hubs in.

 

Brake on, transmission in neutral, stopped completely, manually shift the transfer case. This case is going to be new and tight. It's just like the old ones, in that if anything is moving 4 low will bind because it is not synchronized like 2H to 4H is.

I would reread the manual carefully, as I believe it will state you must be stopped in neutral to shift 4 Low. With or without the hubs locked in, and it should be transfer case after hubs.

What stiffness is related to gears not meshing and not being able to move to mesh easily when it's new and tight. Of course the more it loosens up, the easier it gets.

 

You can shift into low with hubs unlocked for a 2WD low range. I'd still recommend locking the hubs first and just shifting back to 2WD before making a turn at the boat ramp.

It's a brand-new transfer case and is going to be tight. You must have the transmission in neutral before shifting into 4-low. The shift into low range is easier if you are rolling very slowly...like 2-3mph.

The transfer case on these 2017 trucks is completely new and totally different than the old NVG 271/273 that Ford used for so long prior to 2017.

 

I didn't know that the t-case got a work-over for 2017. Do you know what changed?

 

Yes, to have the front axle locked into 4wd you have to have the hubs in the locked position. You can run in 4 low without the hubs locked keeping you in 2 wheel drive for menuveuring a heavy trailer on pavement without your front wheels binding. I know the manual state not to but this has been done for years on manual 4wd systems without damage. I was told the manual states not to do it because they don't want you using 4 low in an everyday situation due to the large amounts of torque it provides. They only want you to use this on loose gravel or snow when the tires can spin easily in an over torque situation. If you're easy on the throttle will using 4 low without the hubs locked you will be fine.

 

I think the transfer case is made by Magna now, but not sure. The brochure claims shift on the fly models use an electro-magnetic clutch for faster 4x4 engagement. That would be pretty interesting, considering you would no longer have a direct "locked" connection anymore...more similar to the "auto" function of the F-150, but of course there is no "auto" mode available.
Here's the brochure page:

 

thanks for the replies. I used 2Lo at boat ramps with unlocked front hubs in the parking lot for years. thanks for reassurance I think just neutral, brake, and time (patience) for 4lo and slow neutral forward "coast" after hub lock for 4high. thanks

 

Hot d....! Learn something new every day. This is my first manual 4x4 truck. So 4w low without the hubs locked is like 2w low?? Cool trick. Thanks! That would be made even better with e-lock rearend locked?

 

Just curious why you would not lock your hubs in if you are going to use 4x4 Low? Not pointing fingers, just curious as I have never done that. You must have a big and heavy boat to not be able to pull it out of the water in standard 2wd and maybe 1st gear.

 

I thought the same thing. It would need to be super heavy for this to be of any value. I mean, its within the truck's towing capacity because it was towed there in 2HI, right?

I'm guessing this technique was used back when trucks were still standard shift. Coming up out of a ramp with a load would be easier when in low range. Nowadays? Cool that it can be done, but pretty much useless. Not to mention most boat ramps are slippery and being in 4WD coming out is generally a plus.

 

Yes, you can have your rear end elocker locked but if you are on dry pavement it will kind of like being in 4 low with your hubs locked. If you are pulling a boat straight up a ramp great but as soon as you make a sharp turn one wheel will start to slip and bind just like 4 wheel drive putting excess stress on your axle shafts because one wheel has to rotate a lot more than the other and being locked they can't.

 

I know it's hard for either of you to imagine wanting to run 4 low with the front hubs open but believe me there are those times where it comes in SUPER handy. At my last house I had a 40 x 60 shop that I would store my toy hauler in. I would have to come off of the pavement a bit where it dropped off and make a sharp turn while backing the trailer in the shop. I couldn't use 4 wheel drive because the tires would bind too much on the pavement while backing in a super sharp turn. Getting my trucks front tires back up off of the little dropoff literally took being in 4 low. The maneuver was a breeze just putting it in 4 low with the hubs unlocked.
Troverman, I remember having a discussion with you about a front locker a few months back. I swear by them, you say they are a waste but until your stuck in 4 wheel drive AND with the rear locked and then.... low and behold, you hit the front locker and your truck magically drives out. (Usually when you get sucked into a ditch). I guess you think something is a waste until it really does help you. No disrespect at all. Just what I have experienced. I live in SW Colorado where the snow is deep and the driveway is steep!

 

Yes, I realize 4-low on pavement (or 4-high) would cause extreme binding in a tight turn that would cause me not to do that out of mechanical sympathy. Maybe you have a very unique situation where you need that extra torque (do you have a gas or diesel truck?); I'm just finding it hard to picture.

Keep in mind the rear diff was not designed to handle whatever the peak torque of your motor is multiplied by 2.64. It was always designed to have the front take exactly half when low is used.

As for the front locker, there once again may be occasional situations where it could be useful. I had opportunity to drive a fully locked D-90 (front / center / rear) and when it became stuck in snow with the center and rear diffs locked, locking the front diff did not improve the situation at all. I think my point from that other post is that when traction is "relatively equal" between left and right wheels, a locker is pretty useless. When a wheel lifts or one wheel has good traction, its very useful. When climbing, however, weight transfers back pretty hard and once again the front end does less work than the rear. Just my $0.02.