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Reviving an old 300

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Old May 3, 2018 | 09:50 AM
  #61  
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RTV won't be necessary but as my Jewish doctor tells me, "It wouldn't hoit."

FWIW, The Modular V8 rear seal works and it is a better (two lip) design.
 
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Old May 3, 2018 | 10:06 AM
  #62  
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That got a good laugh out of me. It wouldn't hoit, indeed.

A 78 F250 with a 300 was rolling down the road when it ran into a Jewish rabbi. A crowd quickly gathered and a Jewish doctor came running up and started tending to the rabbi's wounds. "Are you comfortable?" he asked the rabbi. The rabbi shrugged and said "I'm no doctor, but I make a living."

I'll see if I can pick up the modular V8 seal since it's all pulled out right now, anyway. Thanks!
 
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Old May 7, 2018 | 09:03 PM
  #63  
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I'm getting ready to put the engine back in and the engine mounts are in pretty sad shape. I'm missing the locating stud that goes through the insulator and into the brakcet on the frame. What rubber is left has been rotted a bit. Anyone know what bolt size I need? And where I can find some decent rubber alternatives?
 
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Old May 7, 2018 | 09:46 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by applebaggins
I'm getting ready to put the engine back in and the engine mounts are in pretty sad shape. I'm missing the locating stud that goes through the insulator and into the brakcet on the frame. What rubber is left has been rotted a bit. Anyone know what bolt size I need? And where I can find some decent rubber alternatives?
The locating stud is part of the motor mount. If it's missing it's time for a new motor mounts.
 
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Old May 8, 2018 | 09:34 AM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by fordman75
The locating stud is part of the motor mount. If it's missing it's time for a new motor mounts.
Couldn't you just put the right bolt / washer through some bushing material?

Looking at these, it seems like that would be possible:
https://www.npdlink.com/store/produc...390-50000.html
https://www.npdlink.com/store/produc...391-50000.html

Unless I'm missing something...
 
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Old May 8, 2018 | 11:56 AM
  #66  
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Go back and read your last post! " I'm getting ready to put the engine back in and the engine mounts are in pretty sad shape. " You are trying to piece together some old shot mounts??? Why? Get some new mounts and be done with it. If you don't do it now, you will do it later! I hate doing things twice when there is no reason to.
 
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Old May 8, 2018 | 12:49 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by fordman75
Go back and read your last post! " I'm getting ready to put the engine back in and the engine mounts are in pretty sad shape. " You are trying to piece together some old shot mounts??? Why? Get some new mounts and be done with it. If you don't do it now, you will do it later! I hate doing things twice when there is no reason to.
I should rephrase! The metal is as strong as it ever was, but the bolt is missing from one and the rubber stuff is in sad shape. Is it possible to DIY the bolt and bushing material with parts that are cheaper than getting new mounts?

EDIT: Something like this... https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...337647&jsn=299
 
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Old May 9, 2018 | 01:10 AM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by applebaggins
I should rephrase! The metal is as strong as it ever was, but the bolt is missing from one and the rubber stuff is in sad shape. Is it possible to DIY the bolt and bushing material with parts that are cheaper than getting new mounts?

EDIT: Something like this... https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...337647&jsn=299
The metal and the rubber are a unit. they are bonded to each other. I don't mess with stock mounts other then replacing them. Otherwise I go with a full custom set up I make myself using leaf spring bushings.

Stock style motor mounts are dirt cheap. Less then $20.00 each on Rockauto. I don't get why you would want to mess with trying to repair one.
 
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Old May 9, 2018 | 08:35 AM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by fordman75
The metal and the rubber are a unit. they are bonded to each other. I don't mess with stock mounts other then replacing them. Otherwise I go with a full custom set up I make myself using leaf spring bushings.

Stock style motor mounts are dirt cheap. Less then $20.00 each on Rockauto. I don't get why you would want to mess with trying to repair one.
I'm running out of money for the build - there are only so many $20 parts I can afford to pick up at this point and I know I'll have some heavy money to spend in the brake department. Sounds like I'll have to bite the bullet, though. Thanks for the guidance!
 
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Old May 20, 2018 | 11:16 AM
  #70  
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I'm about to put my bellhousing back on, but I didn't catalog where the longer/shorter bolts go. Does anyone have this info?
 
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Old May 20, 2018 | 11:29 AM
  #71  
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I usually forget to keep track when I do that.
If I recall right though, the longer bolts go in the holes are drilled all the way through and the shorter bolts go in the holes that bottom out.

If in doubt, use the longer bolts first. If they don't fit, then use a shorter one.
 
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Old May 20, 2018 | 11:56 AM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by AbandonedBronco
I usually forget to keep track when I do that.
If I recall right though, the longer bolts go in the holes are drilled all the way through and the shorter bolts go in the holes that bottom out.

If in doubt, use the longer bolts first. If they don't fit, then use a shorter one.
You, sir, have put me to shame with your common sense. Thanks!
 
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Old Jun 2, 2018 | 03:01 PM
  #73  
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I sure could use some help. I'm trying to put my 1978 300 back in my F250 with aftermarket mounts that look near identical to the originals, but I can't get it in there. I have just the flywheel and clutch plate on the back - the engine mounts are attached to the block and I'm lowering the whole thing down on to the frame. The bolts are out wide enough that I don't think they'll sit down evenly into the holes on the frame brackets. How am I supposed to do this?

EDIT: These are the mounts I got from RockAuto
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...=1123153&jsn=3
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...=1123153&jsn=4
 
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Old Jun 2, 2018 | 04:55 PM
  #74  
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Are you getting both studs into the frame mount brackets? If you can't, then get the passenger side mount stud to drop into the bracket hole. Then get the nut started on the stud (but not all the way on ) . That will keep that side from lifting out as you try to get the other side to drop in. That should give you a little more room to get the other side to drop in place.

If you still can't get the other side to drop in. Then pull that mount off the engine and set the stud in the bracket hole and start the nut on the stud. Then bolt the mount back onto the engine block. Once that mount is back on the engine and everything is sitting where it needs to be tighten down both mount nuts.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2018 | 07:39 PM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by fordman75
Are you getting both studs into the frame mount brackets? If you can't, then get the passenger side mount stud to drop into the bracket hole. Then get the nut started on the stud (but not all the way on ) . That will keep that side from lifting out as you try to get the other side to drop in. That should give you a little more room to get the other side to drop in place.

If you still can't get the other side to drop in. Then pull that mount off the engine and set the stud in the bracket hole and start the nut on the stud. Then bolt the mount back onto the engine block. Once that mount is back on the engine and everything is sitting where it needs to be tighten down both mount nuts.
I can get one side in, but not both. I’ll try your approach tomorrow and let you know! Thanks!
 
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