Short story first.

HAD to get new tires on the front of my truck. I was going to wait until I got some front suspension work done but when the steel started showing through on the outside edge, I knew I couldn't wait.

When I got my '65 100 back, the tire shop had an estimate for other work that needed done. Kingpins and shocks, plus an alignment were what they listed. (They missed the radius arm bushings that were in pieces and falling off!)

This weekend I replaced the radius arm bushings and the front axle pivot bushing. (thanks William for suggesting the a.p.b. - they were trashed.) While everything was torn apart I took the shocks off and took them to the auto parts store where the counter guy tested them, handed them back and told me they were in good shape!

This made me think about the kingpins. Figuring if they were indeed bad I should be able to tell by grabbing the top and bottom of the drum and feel for wobble. NONE! Tried side to side and got a little but it appears the steering linkage was moving and is a little worn. (This would explain the slightly loose steering?) I'm guessing the kingpins are ok.

So now the alignment. My front tire wear was all on the outside edge so I believe the tires where top out. (gotta be a term for this.) After doing the bushings and putting everything back together I lowered the truck. The tires still looked like they were still riding on the outside edge, however after driving around the block and then looking at them, now they don't!

Here are my questions.

How can I test to see if the truck is riding on the outside of the tires? If I need an alignment, what questions should I ask the local shops before scheduling one. There are two shops in town who do alignments and after the above story I don't think I can trust one of them! I want to be sure they know what they are doing with my truck. (someone needs to know what I'm doing with it, )

Thanks for all your help! You guys (and gals) are great!

BTW I had no clue what I was doing when I started replacing the bushings this weekend! A challenge to say the least!

 

I've been apalled at the number of rip-offs attempted on people when it comes to under-car care. Folks just don't know or understand what is involved, so if someone tells them mystical, non-visible parts like ball joints or kingpins are worn out, we just trust them.
Sounds like you dodged a bullet.
I doubt your kingpins are bad, if you can't detect any play. I removed my 93,000 mile originals when I converted to disc brakes and they were as tight as the day it was built. If you'd see what they are made of, you'd know why they don't wear. Very strong lumps of good steel.
I'd say you probably are more likely to have steering components worn. If you take the various joints apart and feel them by hand, you'll know for sure. They should be stiff, not easy to move. If they move easily, time to replace.
Now, about your outside edges. When you first let your truck down off the jack, the wheels will be out at the top. When you drive it, they will settle back to vertical. The spring determines the ride height, and also controls the vertical alignment of the tire to some degree. If the springs sag, the insides would wear. So it ain't that.
The camber (that's what we're talking about) is set at the factory and is controlled by the I-Beam. To alter it, you'd have to bend the I-Beam. This is explained in the factory manual, but the average alignment shop hasn't a clue how to do it. I tell guys to go to a heavy duty truck shop if they need the arms bent. But, you shouldn't need them bent.
If you have a level piece of ground, you can do a marginally reliable field check with a carpenter's level held vertically next to the wheel. Make the level, uh, level. Use a tape measure and check the distance from the level to the wheel rim at the top and bottom. If it's reasonably close, you're probably ok. This is not a high-tech check though, and is worth what you paid for it.
If your toe is set incorrectly, it may possibly contribute to the tire wear also. Toe refers to the front wheels being parallel. If your truck is pigeon toed, i.e. the fronts of the tires point in toward the frame too much, this may also contribute to your problem.
Ultimately, you need to find someone who knows about Ford I-Beam suspension who does alignments. Might want to see if there's an old-timer at your local Ford dealer who could check it for you.

 

Let me throw a Dog in this fight. . . .

While you're checking your Camber with a carpenters Level you can also check your toe in with a dry line, or masons line too.

I offer this because camber, although it may have ability to chew outsides off your tread, will only run on outside if your springs have grown taller &/or stronger, or your I Beams unbent some, which is not very likely since use, age, & wear do the opposite.

However wear in center link ends, or Pitman arm pivot, causes toe-in to change. Often "in" becomes exaggerated when it is on outside wheel in a turn or corner. IOW outside wheel will tend to fold "under too much" thus scuffing outer edge of that wheel, in a turn/corner. In other direction same will occur on other wheel.

It is not so much a matter of excess toe-in going straight, but a matter of excess toe-in turning or a turn situation. Sloppyness or play in steering linkage lets wheel, vertical centers cave in too much rather than holding them in correct relative angle, it wants to over steer in a turn anyhow just by physics involved. . .
providing extra slop, play & looseness merely allows it to happen everytime you turn a corner It exacerbate the problem & the faster you go, more it will cave in, etc. etc.

Hope this is helpful info for you! FBp

 

Thanks!

I checked the camber with a square and level. After changing the above mentioned bushings, the camber is fine. Passenger wheel is actually about 1/16" in at top, drivers side measurements were even. Assuming that nothing was exactly level or plumb, I gotta think these measurements are off a little but would be close enough.

The toe in during turning makes sense. Wouldn't extremely bad radius arm bushings also add to this problem? I ask because I can really tell a difference in cornering after changing them. It almost feels like a sports car now! OK, a really bad sports car, but I do feel a difference.

I guess my next job will be to start on the steering linkage since I can detect some play in it. So.... Do I start at the pitman arm, tie rods, or just do it all at once?

MFT

 

I drove my '62 to my favorite tire store where they did a complete drive train/brake check for me. Not only did the mechanic verify what I pretty much already knew, he found some other problems which were solved by a doner truck at a local wrecking yard. Turned out that the yard just got another '64 for more parts!!! But anyway, I got the truck looked over for no $$$ and got to go in the pit to look at the things he pointed out to me. I don't know about your service shops in your area, but I'd be looking for a different one personally. Good luck, have fun!

 

It's not necessary to "do it all at once", but it's probably just as easy.
Of course, changing any of these parts means you will have to get an alignment to set the toe correctly, which means you'll probably get to listen to them tell you again you need kingpins and a million other things.

 

Great advice all around, but I couldn't keep this to myself... as an old carpenter....

[".....If you have a level piece of ground, you can do a marginally reliable field check with a carpenter's level held vertically next to the wheel. Make the level, uh, level...."]

Level is the horizontal plane. The vertical plane is usually referred to as 'plumb'.

Ok, now I'll sit back and let you mechaniks teach me how to use those squeezers and twisty things.

 

Thanks for the advice and humor! I've found I need a lot of humor when working on these toys!

As a home owner, I am an amateur carpenter, plumer, electrician, and gardener. Now I'm also trying to be an amateur auto mechanic!

I knew the "plumb thing", but I'm having trouble with the "squeezers and twisty things." Aren't those also used as pounding devices?

Here's what I'll do as far as changing the tie rods and center links then having an alignment. I'll change them and give the old parts a good cleaning. That way, the shop won't know that the other parts aren't new!

Thanks again!

 

MFT! Your e-mail isn't working so I couldent reply to your off line question. I think the tire wear is as others have indicated, caused by excessive toe in. But first, have a look at your rag joint, these are the usual culprit for loose steering. Ford has a nice plastic one for later model trucks: not cheap, but worth it about 85 bucks. After that MOOG has a part number for the steering link and tie rod ends all in one box. I'd do that next, then have a shop set the TOE!. Welcome to FTE!