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Has anyone replaced the 1157 bulbs with LEDs? The LEDs have the same bayonet connection and can be used in the existing 1157 socket; they are brighter and last longer than the old filament bulbs.
It should be a straight forward replacement but I do not know if they will have any effect on the electrical wiring/fuses.
One thing to watch our for is feedback between the parking light circuit and the brake/signal circuit. Some of the LED bulbs get the dual brightness by just placing a resistor in the parking light circuit. All LED's are illuminated, but the parking lights are dimmer due to the resistor. Problem is this resistor can allow voltage to feedback to the other wiring circuit in the vehicle. The fix is to install a diode in each lead (one in parking light lead and one in brake/signal lead) to prevent voltage from feeding back into the other circuit. The resistor used in the 6 volt LED bulbs is about 15 ohms. I don't know what it is for the 12 volt bulbs, but I would expect it to be similar.
The only issue running LED is they have less draw so you usually need to throw a resistor in line to make the flasher work or better yet switch to a LED flasher.
The only issue running LED is they have less draw so you usually need to throw a resistor in line to make the flasher work or better yet switch to a LED flasher.
Actually the resistor needs to go in parallel with the LED bulb to draw more current through the original flasher. This has to be a high wattage resistor, and should be one made for this purpose. If you keep one conventional bulb in both sides (for example, LED in the rear and conventional bulb in front signal lights) the resistor or no-load LED flasher is usually not required. Also as I stated in my previous reply this is not the only possible problem with using LED's. It depends on the bulb you choose.
Solid state flashers are the way to go...the antique bi-metal flashers were great in the 50s but their time has long passed. I have even replaced my sealed beam headlights with LEDs...prices are coming down and the performance can't be beat.
Solid state flashers are the way to go...the antique bi-metal flashers were great in the 50s but their time has long passed. I have even replaced my sealed beam headlights with LEDs...prices are coming down and the performance can't be beat.
agreed, just adding LEDs as my turn signal indicators removed enough resistance that the stock flasher flashed way too fast, cheap solid state flasher with a built in potentiometer was the ticket. Adjust the pot for the flasher speed needed and done.
There are also differences in LED bulbs, I tried some cheapo eBay ones and they put out less light than the stock bulbs. There are super bright ones available, but expensive,
A buddy felt that his brake lights on his 56 were not bright enough so he asked me if there was some way to make them brighter. I knew that there were brighter LEDs on the market but after some digging I found some plasma/LED bulbs that were SUPER bright. West Coast Classic Cougars carries them West Coast Classic Cougar - Specializing in 1967 - 1973 Classic Mercury Cougar Parts take a look at their website, they have a video that compares the brightness of the OEM incandescent bulbs, LED bulbs, and their new plasma/LED bulbs. My buddy has been using them for 2 years now and is very pleased...plug and play taillight bulbs assuming that you are using a solid-state flasher.
I bought 1157 replacement LED's and installed them in the rear of my truck two weeks ago. I started experiencing issues with my flasher and rear signals not working and have since put the incandescants back in. I contacted the manufacturer and they recommend resister in circuit for each light or LED flasher.
I installed my radio last week and it fades whenever I put my signals lights on now; coincidence ? I think not. I'm going to replace the flasher relay, to see if that will clear the radio issue. In theory there should have been less resistance with the LED and therefore less current throught the flasher relay.
I bought 1157 replacement LED's and installed them in the rear of my truck two weeks ago. I started experiencing issues with my flasher and rear signals not working and have since put the incandescants back in. I contacted the manufacturer and they recommend resister in circuit for each light or LED flasher.
I installed my radio last week and it fades whenever I put my signals lights on now; coincidence ? I think not. I'm going to replace the flasher relay, to see if that will clear the radio issue. In theory there should have been less resistance with the LED and therefore less current throught the flasher relay.
Your first problem is the flasher...lower current draw with the LED bulbs will not generate the heat required within the flasher to cause the bi-metal reeds to separate. Solution...install a solid-state flasher, cheap fix for an antiquated circuit.
The radio problem should not be related in any way to your flasher/LED issue.
I bought 1157 replacement LED's and installed them in the rear of my truck two weeks ago. I started experiencing issues with my flasher and rear signals not working and have since put the incandescants back in. I contacted the manufacturer and they recommend resister in circuit for each light or LED flasher.
I installed my radio last week and it fades whenever I put my signals lights on now; coincidence ? I think not. I'm going to replace the flasher relay, to see if that will clear the radio issue. In theory there should have been less resistance with the LED and therefore less current throught the flasher relay.
This is exactly the type of feedback I was talking about in my first comment in this thread. tip49, you will need an electronic flasher to get the signals to work properly, but that will not solve your feedback between the two light systems. You have 3 choices: 1) Put the incandescent bulbs back in. 2) put diodes in series in the parking light and signal light leads near the tail lights. 3) Buy a higher-end LED that doesn't just use an internal resistor to achieve the two brightness levels. I have considerable automotive LED experience. Those of you who have LED Bed Roll lights may recognize the name. If not do a search on eBay for "Bed Roll Lights".
Thanks to all for the feedback (pun intended) on the use of LED lights. I did not think a simple bulb replacement would be so finicky. Your tips led me to do some research and to evaluate the quality of the parts involved, i.e., bulbs and LED flasher.
I now have analysis paralysis due to the negative comments of many of the users on the reliability and workability of the new components. My initial desire was to brighten the small taillights of the rear roll pan of my truck. The demo that Charlieled (coincidence?) provided showed that many LED bulbs are no brighter than incandescent.
I have a Ron Francis fuse panel with a turn signal and hazard flasher; both are two prong. My first step will be in finding a good electronic replacement for the turn signal flasher. Some have a ground wire, others don’t. After that, I’ll make a choice for the rear LED bulbs. Some have the resistors built in. I’m not too concerned about the front parking lights and will wait until I’m satisfied with the workability of the LEDs.
Personally I do not like the 1157 bayonet style sockets as they are a pain for me to remove/replace the bulbs, especially when corrosion sets in.
One thing about working on old trucks: it’s a constant learning experience.
Yes, I had to install a solid state flasher. I think that I got it at NAPA. Before you insert the bayonet style bulbs coat the metal base with dielectric grease. The good news with LEDs is that you should not have to replace them that often.
Those "plasma" LED type 1157s state in their ads, along with the reviews by customers, that so long as the front turn signal bulbs are still the incandescent type no resistors or updated flashers are needed, if you go LED all the way around then the current draw becomes too low for conventional flashers to work.
$70 bucks a pair though, would buy a heck of a lot of regular bulbs! They sure do look a lot brighter. Probably money well spent too - all the morons out there texting and driving these days.
I like to pump the brakes (lights) at stops sometimes, a trick I learned riding motorcycles. Don't hesitate to use your horn either, it works in "reverse" too, to get idiots attention. Always keep an eye on what's going on around you, situational awareness. A lot can happen in the blink of an eye.