Fluid Leak
The old passenger side shock had zero resistance and undoubtedly has been shot since it lost all fluid two years ago. The top nut on the OEM shock was 15mm and the lower stud nut was 18mm. With access considerably limited, the top nut removal was excruciatingly slow but doable. Replacement was straight forward.
The driver side top nut I accessed through the grommet hole in the firewall. I ended up using a 15mm flex head ratcheting wrench to remove it. AND I THOUGHT THE PASSENGER SIDE WAS SLOW GOING !!! With the flex head wrench almost upright at around 70 degrees, a one click ratchet turn was all I could manage through the firewall hole. Due to the incredibly limited access I cannot imagine removing the top nut with anything other than a flex head ratcheting wrench or other thin profile/ max access tool. The lower mounting stud snapped off during the nut removal. It was replaced with Doorman kit 31001. Driver side shock was easier replaced than removed, but curse the engineering here. I did.
Yeah, that "engineering" is pretty pathetic. I just did my front shocks, and it's far more difficult than it should be.
I use Bilstein shocks which have an added benefit of a rather large and thick lower "nut" that's located under the shock tower when installed. Along with coating the top threaded stud of the new shock with anti-seize before installed the nut removing them is relatively easy. Blistein are also a mono-tube design with flexible boots over the piston-side rod---those with the thin metal shield can be a huge PITA during removal as that shield makes removal very difficult.
HTH








