Can't maintain speed.
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2016
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Can't maintain speed.
1990 Ford F350 cc lwb srw 460 E4OD. 136,xxx miles
So recently I made the trip from Texas to Nevada towing my bronco, and any time I found a hill the truck would drop RPM and slow way down. It will do this loaded and unloaded, but it was much more noticeable with added weight. I had the trans flushed and filter replaced prior to the trip, new plugs, wires and, even an early oil change. Replaced the fuel pressure regulator a few months ago with fuel pumps as well put in a new fuel filter. Has new distributor and correct black ignitor on distributor. New ICM on drivers fender. I have opened the ECM and no leaky Caps, burns or corrosion any where.
I'm currently not running my tab solenoid, srv valve or EGR due to previous owners removal of components.
I'm needing this truck for work and my wife is pressuring me to sell it and get a different one. Can anyone give me an idea of what the issue may be
So recently I made the trip from Texas to Nevada towing my bronco, and any time I found a hill the truck would drop RPM and slow way down. It will do this loaded and unloaded, but it was much more noticeable with added weight. I had the trans flushed and filter replaced prior to the trip, new plugs, wires and, even an early oil change. Replaced the fuel pressure regulator a few months ago with fuel pumps as well put in a new fuel filter. Has new distributor and correct black ignitor on distributor. New ICM on drivers fender. I have opened the ECM and no leaky Caps, burns or corrosion any where.
I'm currently not running my tab solenoid, srv valve or EGR due to previous owners removal of components.
I'm needing this truck for work and my wife is pressuring me to sell it and get a different one. Can anyone give me an idea of what the issue may be
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
What are you referring to as the SRV valve? The other components will set codes but not affect general operation.
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This caused a no start condition due to having a gray on installed<br/>
Drivers side fender one of the wires has been cut short and it to my knowledge connected and disconnected hasn't made any difference
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
Well.. that is the most *******ized setup I have seen. You have a late model distributor that uses a remote TFI module.. the wiring harness that comes out the front of the distributor body goes to the fender module. But that isn't correct for a '90 it would have come factory with a distributor with a grey module on it's side. So the question is which one of those modules is actually connected? If the distributor has the correct PIP module inside then that black module isn't even connected to it. But if it is then that wiring harness coming out the front of the distributor isn't connected to the PIP module. Can you post a pic of the inside of the distributor?
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
OK that is what I suspected, the black module on the side of the distributor isn't even connected to the PIP module inside so it isn't doing anything.
So that means is somebody converted this truck to use a remote TFI, nothing wrong with that. And what I suspect is happening is that wire that you have disconnected over near the fender module is actually where the spout plug was, and with that circuit open you aren't getting any timing advance.. which would explain the serious lack of power.
P.S. You removed a couple parts to take those picture right? The plastic rotor button and a round steel rotor wheel?
So that means is somebody converted this truck to use a remote TFI, nothing wrong with that. And what I suspect is happening is that wire that you have disconnected over near the fender module is actually where the spout plug was, and with that circuit open you aren't getting any timing advance.. which would explain the serious lack of power.
P.S. You removed a couple parts to take those picture right? The plastic rotor button and a round steel rotor wheel?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Mexico, Missouri
I couldn't agree more!!
I was gonna ask the same question, but Conanski beat me to it. Lol
I was gonna ask the same question, but Conanski beat me to it. Lol
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Yes I removed them to get a better angle to it. So with the module on the distributor did I just was 1k with the shop? They spent 2months on a no start condition and said it was that specific piece. Also this wire was never connected when I bought this truck.
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FTE Legend
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
Have you got a timing light? If not get one and hook it up to see what the base timing is set at and if it advances when the engine is revved as it should.
You have some screwed up wiring there now so you are going to have to figure out what the PO did to splice in that remote TFI module.. and why in hell he didn't remove the stock TFI wiring.
You have some screwed up wiring there now so you are going to have to figure out what the PO did to splice in that remote TFI module.. and why in hell he didn't remove the stock TFI wiring.
Temporarily Deactivated
Joined: Aug 2003
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You are not the first. Don't feel alone.
There were a couple threads recently with wiring diagrams. If you search for user: subford and the words black gray you should get hits.
This is a link to a thread that might help you.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...k-93-96-a.html
When you get the ignition issues worked out you might want to drive with a vacuum gauge to see if you have a catalytic converter issue also.
There were a couple threads recently with wiring diagrams. If you search for user: subford and the words black gray you should get hits.
This is a link to a thread that might help you.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...k-93-96-a.html
When you get the ignition issues worked out you might want to drive with a vacuum gauge to see if you have a catalytic converter issue also.
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https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...placement.html
This is another good read while you are on ignition issues. It's a lot shorter than that first thread.
The vacuum gauge is to see if your catalytic converter is plugged, broken or compromised. Converter test is for power issues and other issues.
This is another good read while you are on ignition issues. It's a lot shorter than that first thread.
The vacuum gauge is to see if your catalytic converter is plugged, broken or compromised. Converter test is for power issues and other issues.