Before PIP or Distributor Replacement

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Aug 22, 2017 | 06:29 PM

Scndsin

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From: Central Mississippi

Before PIP or Distributor Replacement

Recently a friend & chapter member had one of those issues that crop up where nothing seems to work after trying everything.

f1504x4driver, (AKA Thomas) went through this not too long ago:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-95-5-8-w.html

Well T has had some health issues lately & on the way to a Doc appt he had a die & no start issue resolved by: pulling the spout.

So he picked up a Duralast Gold new unit w/lifetime warranty & I stabbed it for him this weekend.

Reports are it hasn't run this good in years.

Below is what I found when I took took the shutter wheel off the top of the shaft & pulled the 95, 5.8 PIP that has over 200k on the clock:

This cleaned up really well with my stiff camel hair brush & some contact cleaner. I imagine a vacuum or at least compressed air would help in the engine compartment.

I would STRONGLY recommend pulling the shutter wheel on any strangely behaving OBS and inspecting the Hall effect sensor of the PIP.

This truck set NO PIP codes & would only run with SPOUT out.

Aug 24, 2017 | 08:55 AM

mark1986F150

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Joined: Sep 2012

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WOW no wonder there was an issue. The metal shavings bridging the ends of the magnet at least partially cut the flux lines that the shutter wheel should cut. Great picture!

Aug 24, 2017 | 10:11 AM

Scndsin

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Joined: May 2006

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From: Central Mississippi

Thanks.

In all my time here watching people chase no-start/dies/runs like crap/change every part imaginable thread, I've never seen somebody recommend pull the shutter wheel off & clean the PIP.

Aug 24, 2017 | 11:17 AM

Tim Hodgson

Fleet Mechanic

Joined: Mar 2009

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From: Sacramento Delta, CA

Cleaning the stator would certainly help that issue. But on mine there was wear on the shaft so I switched the collar and gear to the NOS distributor.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-eec-iv-2.html

The best diagnosis decision tree I have ever seen is here:

http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/for...t-a-no-start-1

Aug 25, 2017 | 07:55 AM

Scndsin

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FTE Chapter Leader

Joined: May 2006

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From: Central Mississippi

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tim Hodgson

...The best diagnosis decision tree I have ever seen starts at post #9 here:...

Yah, got that bookmarked in a folder here.

T & I both carry one of these (below) in the glove compartment & it would light up just fine, but not run the truck.

Not with the SPOUT in. (Edit #2 With tester installed, SPOUT doesn't matter...

)

Apr 3, 2018 | 12:20 AM

NYE COUNTY

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Great info ! Can the shutter wheel be removed from the top without pulling the distributor out of the engine ? I would like to make an inspection as per your photos. I have what I believe is a stock distributor in a 89 460 with 200k miles.

Thanks
Tony

Apr 3, 2018 | 12:28 AM

Scndsin

Thread Starter

FTE Chapter Leader

Joined: May 2006

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From: Central Mississippi

Pull the rotor, & remove the 2 screws on top of the shutter wheel.

Can't remember the head size, maybe 5mm. (Edit, it's a 1/4 inch)

Distributor removal not required.

IF the PIP has to be (replaced) due to failure, then yes the distributor must be removed & the gear pressed off after the roll pin is driven out.

Good luck, hope simple cleaning works for you.

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Apr 3, 2018 | 03:30 AM

TexasGuy001

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Thanks for sharing. Will have to remember this for potential issues down the road.

Apr 3, 2018 | 01:15 PM

#10

NYE COUNTY

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Apr 3, 2018 | 01:16 PM

#11

NYE COUNTY

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Apr 3, 2018 | 01:18 PM

#12

NYE COUNTY

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Mine looks intact. Discolored greenish in the "magnet" and something seeping at the bottom where it attaches. Adhesive ?

Looks OK ?

Apr 3, 2018 | 07:44 PM

#13

Scndsin

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From: Central Mississippi

Looks like corrosion. Not sure what the metal actually is.

No idea about the leakage.

I might risk a shot of electrical contact cleaner & some compressed air.

But only cause yanking a distributor out for me is no big deal if I kilt' it.