Cooling system issue, 2000 v10
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From: Glenn dale md
I apologize i missed that detail, that yours happened while not running.
You are correct. My issue happened while running the engine.
I would still give the coolant a lookover for oil residue and a sniff for any exhaust smell. It will cost you nothing to rule those two symptoms out.
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Cross-Country
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I think, hopefully, this will be my final post on this issue. I just wanted to follow up- nothing I'd more annoying than researching a problem, finding an old post with a bunch of info, and then the OP never reported back about if anything worked.
I haven't had a chance to do the plugs and COPs, but I got the thermostat and overflow cap replaced. Worked fine and fixed the problem it seems. The coolant doesn't smell like fuel or exhaust and all seems to be well now.
Hopefully some plugs and COPs will fix my stumbling. The plugs were replaced not too long before I bought the truck, but I figure if at least one cylinder is stumbling it's probably fowled by now and I don't know what plugs were used, so I just sprung for some Autolite Iridium XP plugs. They were $40 on Rockauto, but there is a $2.50/ plug ($25) mail in right now, so in the end they will be pretty inexpensive. I also ordered some new Wagner Heavy Duty pads all around, as the brakes are starting to squeal.
-Michael
I haven't had a chance to do the plugs and COPs, but I got the thermostat and overflow cap replaced. Worked fine and fixed the problem it seems. The coolant doesn't smell like fuel or exhaust and all seems to be well now.
Hopefully some plugs and COPs will fix my stumbling. The plugs were replaced not too long before I bought the truck, but I figure if at least one cylinder is stumbling it's probably fowled by now and I don't know what plugs were used, so I just sprung for some Autolite Iridium XP plugs. They were $40 on Rockauto, but there is a $2.50/ plug ($25) mail in right now, so in the end they will be pretty inexpensive. I also ordered some new Wagner Heavy Duty pads all around, as the brakes are starting to squeal.
-Michael
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 11,278
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From: Las Cruces New Mexico
On my wifes X the radiator was clogged half ways, top coolant hose was rock hard and hot while the bottom coolant hose was soft and cold to the touch, tho coolant ever came out the coolant cap, but the pressure was enough to crack the radiator top plastic end. Check that radiator good.
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Well crap. Happened again. I drove about 10 miles round trip, got home and coolant started spewing out of the filler as soon as I turned the engine off.
Upper radiator hose was stiff and hot, lower hose was soft and not as hot. I'm thinking plugged radiator. Darn it. I need to see how much it would cost to be rodded out or if I have to buy a new one.
-Michael
Upper radiator hose was stiff and hot, lower hose was soft and not as hot. I'm thinking plugged radiator. Darn it. I need to see how much it would cost to be rodded out or if I have to buy a new one.
-Michael
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Cross-Country
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New rads aren't too expensive, but I don't have the $150 to throw at it to possibly not fix it. Any ideas? It comes up to temp fast, and stays at about 1/3- 1/2 gauge steady. No water blowing out while driving, Bo overheating. Engine is running rough and stumblind with a misfire CEL, so I need to replace COPs, hopefully will fix that. Otherwise, runs fine. As soon as I turn it off, it boils over and blows out the overflow filler. Already replaced cap and thermostat.
-Michael
-Michael
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A little more info- I have a firehose style garden hose nozzle. I opened the drain plug on the radiator and pressed the face of the hose to the filler neck and turned it on full blast. The pressure changed and started coming a bit hare out of the drain, but b it took a good 3 or 4 seconds for it to change. When I pulled the hose from the filler and stopped sealing it, it blew out the filler with some good force- hit the underside of the hood. The drain plug wasn't coming out with that much force. Maybe points to a partially plugged rad?
Also, I filled it with about 2 gallons of water after it had blown it out the overflow and turned it on. This was after sitting for about 20 minutes and the gauge popped right up to normal operating temp, no warm up.
this whole thing has got me stumped.
Also, I filled it with about 2 gallons of water after it had blown it out the overflow and turned it on. This was after sitting for about 20 minutes and the gauge popped right up to normal operating temp, no warm up.
this whole thing has got me stumped.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2012
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From: Las Cruces New Mexico
It should man, same exact things i mention you have and you narrow it down to the radiator problem will be fix im 99% confident.
Also good timing on doing a flush with distilled water and new coolant.
Also good timing on doing a flush with distilled water and new coolant.
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I also ordered a water pump, just to be safe. I found an unused Fomoco factory water pump on ebay cheap, and the radiator needs to be out to replace it easily, so I figured I would replace it at the same time.
-Michael
-Michael
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Yes, worked fine. I tried to replace the water pump too, but the one I got on ebay is for a 5.4. They guy sold it as a 6.8 and I didn't catch it until I tried installing, after the return window closed. Jerk.
Anyway, yes the new radiator fixed the issue. No more overheating.
-Michael
Anyway, yes the new radiator fixed the issue. No more overheating.
-Michael
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