Hey guys it's been awhile.

My Aero has been going trouble free for some time but it's decided to make some work for me again.

Ok here here it goes so recently in stop and go traffic I have begun to notice that my 96 3.0's temperature gauge was getting higher then usual.

When driving down the highway at 50 mph or while driving down city streets the temp gauge is in the range that I am comfortable with.

However when I'm standing in stop and go traffic the temp skyrockets from between the N to O in normal to about as high as A and above.

This is exacerbated when the A/C is on this is to be expected since the condenser does transfer heat to the air before it's pulled over the rad and luckily today when I was stuck in horrible (practically standing) traffic turning off the A/C prevented the temperature from rising past the A and possibly into the danger zone.

I first checked the fan clutch it isn't freewheeling and is fine.

So then I remove the radiator cap and find that the coolant has turned a nice muddy color. To add insult to injury I also find a brown sludge inside the radiator.



This looks to me like this picture of a radiator that I found online:

http://www.sancarlosradiator.com/images/dexmud31.jpg

The picture above was the result of a coolant called Dexcool I'm not sure if my Aero had that from the factory or not though.

This is the factory radiator and the Aero only has around 60k miles on it I think I flushed the system 2 years ago from then on back I can't remember.

Anyways do you guys think that from the pic that this is what's responsible for my elevated temps?

I already know I'm looking at a new Radiator and Thermostat along with a coolant flush minimum.

While on that topic since the coolant is that nasty what about my water pumps impeller? Is it possible that the coolant could have begun to eat away at that too even further reducing the flow of coolant?

It's not weeping or making any noise but I just want your opinions on that as well.

Thanks for the input in advance.

 

I had a similar problem on my '88 TurboCoupe. Rodding the radiator didn't help so I replaced the old 2-core with a new 3-core and it worked fine ever since. Once they plug up you may as well replace them.
Check the t-stat and cap out before you invest in a new rad but it sounds like yours is done for.

 

This too, is why, it's important to flush your colling system at least every other year, forget the 5year 100,000 mile mantra, I'd rather remove any setiment before it gets to become a problem.

When your thermostat opens at the correct temperature rating (195) it also helps to scrub the system clean. Always use distilled water.

There also is an excellent product called "NoRosion" I highly recommend. Flushing it every 2 years, and using a small bottle of NoRosin, I guarantee you'll have a cooling system at 150,000 miles, 200,000 miles in an Aerostar that looks nearly brand new, plus it's a 45 minutes task to flush the system -- and that's taking your time!

I also replace my radiator cap with the correct Motorcraft cap every 5 years whether it needs it or not. Forget the aftermarket caps, with the lift levers, contraptions, ect. maintain system and use correct Ford Motorcraft parts -- thermostats ect/. WELL WORTH the extra $2-3-4-5.00 it cost over Acme Auto Parts' house brand discount items -- where some Ford caps also fit GM and Nissan engines!!!

Here is more on the NoRosion Product I'm talking about. Use that $9.95 bottle at the top of the page, and your cooling ststem will love it!
Welcome to No-Rosion, protect your car or truck's cooling system and lubrication system.

Ed

 

the rusty crud buildup is from broken down old antifreeze. Ford does not use the Dexcool Touch of Radiator Death ?coolant? stay away from that garbage

use only one of the new HOAT organic coolant/AF. i've had good success with Zerex. i use a can of water pump lubricant/coolant conditioner such as the Gunk stuff the fall between coolant changes which are mandatory every 2 years with the high temps that the Aero is blessed with.

use distilled or deionized water ONLY. NO tap water especially with chlorine. i tried cleaning a 65 Dogde radiator that had been dosed for years with the alkaline water of E. Oregon. radiator and heater core totally plugged with hard scale. block partially plugged


any oily residue?

any tiny champagne bubbles in filler neck while hot and running? head gasket leak

both of these will goop up a coolant system


before doing any work
clean the system with one Prestone Flush or Cleaner per directions
i like to run at least 30 miles with it in.

yours may need 2 doses

take off radiator hoses, remove radiator. disconnect heater core hoses from block. remove water pump and thermostat. blow out with water hose full on back thru thermostat opening and then through other coolant openings. lower hose pressure to 30 psi and blow out heater cores.

i would put a new water pump on, seal is probably gone from sludge eatout. new thermostat mandatory. I prefer Stant Premium stainless steel with their patented controlled opening.

new radiator clutch at same time.

rockauto can have the parts to you in less than a week and will save big bucks.

 

All EXCELLENT points! I know if I was going through the labor of removing a water pump, I'd replace it with a new one or at least a warrantied Re-Man unit.

This is also the perfect time to replace you serpetitine belt with a new one.

Also, I might add 96_4WD, and to krankshaft, when adding coolant, put the Aerostar up on ramps, and run the engine with the heater on, fan setting on HIGH. This helps to purge air from the system, as the radiator is at a higher point than the engine.

I like to run the Aerostar with the heater on that first day, turn it off, and re-check the next day after a overnight shutdown, and the engine is cold.

That GM orange Dex-Cool coolant is crap, and one of GM's worse ideas. That coolant will cause leaks in any other car, quickly, and even older GM products, owners thinking they're doing their engines a favor, soon regret their decision using Dex-Cool. Frankly, I think GM should ban it altogether.

Chlorine and hard tap water are also killer to a cooling ststem! I can understand adding it in an emergency, but not as normal cooling system maintenance.

Ed

PS Royal Purple's "Purple Ice" is also a very good product, I have a friend who uses it in a '69 Dodge Dart 340 C.I. drag car, 4:56gears, Dana Sure Grip, and it is the only product he found that does not cause the engine to spew coolant into the overflo, when shut down and exposed to heat soak after a run on a hot day. Running 10 second e.t s on 90 degree summer days. this is in a full race car, with slicks, ect. This Dodge runs consistent low 10s in the right conditions - sea level, ideal 45-60 degree air temp, night air, cool race track/...Wicked Mopar hooks hard and goes!

 

Thanks for the tips guys.

Good air purging tip I definately will use that one.

No champagne bubbles thank goodness or coolant in my tranny fluid.

I just did my first head gasket last year on a 4 cylinder I think I'll take a hiatus on those time consuming jobs for awhile . I remember I was surrounded by boxes intake, exhaust, fuel rail, etc and loads of ziplock bags but everything went back together without any "bonus parts" too .

This has been a real brick to the head for me and I WON'T let this happen again .

Good idea on using the flushing solution before hand I will be sure to do that hopefully it will loosen up all the muck that is in the block passages.

I didn't realize that water pumps were that inexpensive. It's much easier to get it off with the rad out of the way anyways.

Any preference on brand for the water pump? I will be ordering from Rockauto. There is A1-Cardone, Eastern Industries, Airtex, Gates, and Motorcraft.

I have used parts from A1, Gates (Federal Mogul), and Motorcraft before but since the price spans from 20 bucks (at A1) all the way to 80 (for Motorcraft) what is the difference?

I never buy cheap parts but I don't want to overspend for nothing more then a brand name either.

A stant thermostat it is at the stock 195 C temperature and a new Motorcraft clutch.

The radiator will be a Spectra Premium with a new Motorcraft cap.

Gotta love Rockauto they are my one stop shop for A/C parts already.

They are like the spice rack in my fantasy kitchen .

 

If it were me, I'd get the Motorcraft, with AC Delco as a second choice. Airtex isn't bad either. I have no opinion of A1 either way.

 

krankshaft, a lot of the price difference between companies, simply boils down to their overhead expenses.

You have one company with 50 employees and a smaller warehouse. The other place hace 250 employees, a lrage plant, works three shifts, ect.

Both can produce great quality reman or supply new parts, but one obviously, has other "issues".

Good luck with your Aerostar, looks like you have a great plan to keep her running for many miles into the future!

Just talked to an owner with an Aerostar Cargo Van (1992) shorty, 3.0V6 527,000 miles, original engine, transmission with 1 rebuild, rear axle has had two fluid changes!
Only major parts he said he replaced was one PS pump, and the rack & pinion (at the same time).

I told him it could quit tomorrow, and he'd have gotten his money out of it, and he agreed completely. Aerostar was white, shiny, and looked in very nice shape, (no rust here in California), I would never of guessed it had that many miles on it//...

Ed

 

Well it's been a few weeks and I've let the Aero sit in the garage. I'm ready to get started on this now.

The radiator and other parts from Rockauto are on their way.

I got some pre-diluted Prestone coolant I know I'm only paying for 50% coolant and 50% water but I always get nervious that I will get the proportions wrong. This way it's like adding oil or tranny fluid just put in the right amount no need to worry about the proportions.

Anyhow I got the Prestone flush that 96 recommended (its a 33.8 oz bottle that says Prestone Super Radiator Cleaner).

It's instructions say to drain the system then pour the whole bottle in then fill the rest with water.

I will be using distilled water for the long part of the flush.

After the 30 mile (3 to 6 hour mark) it says to drain the water / flushing solution then refill with water and run the engine for 10 minutes after it reaches operating temperature then drain again and you're done. Do I really need distilled water for this short final 10 minute flush or will tap water do?

In addition to that 96 said that it may require 2 doses of flush should I just do two courses with the flush solution or will there be a visual indicator after the first flush if that will be necessary?

 

Every time I flush radiator I get leaks. I have to titen clamps, change freeze plugs, hoses.....

 

That radiator is slimed. My 3 aero's have between 90 and 150k on them all the anti is green and like new. Never seen a clogged one like that. You might have had bad antifreeze or an oil leak into the coolant which would make a brown sludge possibly.


Dick

 

i'd start with 2 doses of the Heavy Duty cleaner flush.

shining a light into the thermostat hole and down the old radiator will tell you how much goop is left.

 

Part of the problem there may also be that te water is not pure. To me it is worth the effort of just buying premixed coolant, that way I don't have to have RO or distilled water or bother mixing it. I always carry a bottle of premixed with me in the vehicles, nice thing to have in case of an emergency.

Make sure you never use tap water, it just has too many minerals and stuff, which contributes to corrosion and deposits. If you replace the fluid often ( I do it every year), and use only premixed or with deionized water (RO or distilled), your cooling system should work perfectly for a long time.

 

Well glad that's over it was a bit more time consuming then my mind made it seem.

Thanks for the input I'm going to go through the coolant flushing process twice with another bottle of solution just to be safe.

I did an oil change with a Motorcraft filter while I was at it I intend to do a gentile tranny fluid flush as per Bear's sticky after I get this whole coolant system mess sorted out. I already ordered the new tranny filter and gasket from Rockauto for that job.

Anyhow thanks for the elevation tip as soon as the T stat opened I saw all of that air being purged through the neck. I used distilled water to top off.

Getting the coolant reservoir off to flush it out was really annoying and was the most time consuming part of the job. Nobody told me that the front windshield wiper reservoir and the coolant reservoir was an assembly. I figured that I could wrangle it off to the side but when it finally budged and the WW tank moved too I knew I was in for it. I should have expected this though on a vehicle where getting at the spark plugs is harder than preparing a space shuttle launch.

Nah I'm just kidding! Or am I ?

For future reference to anyone reading this to get the reservoir off.

• 1. Disconnect the battery negative terminal first then the positive.
• 2. Loosen the battery hold down bolt (the long one) and remove the plastic wedge.
• 3. Lift the battery out.
• 4. Remove the bolt holding the coolant reservoir to the left side of the battery box.
• 5. Now remove the bolt towards the back of the box (a long bolt make sure you put it back in the right place) and the other two (short ones) to the right.
• 6. Now comes the fun part look towards the front center of the battery box in that tiny cranny there is the final bolt. Access is limited so make sure that you don't drop the bolt down there.
• 7. Remove the battery box.
• 8. Loosen the second bolt holding the reservoir that is now visible on the right of the reservoir at the back.
• 9. Loosen the final bolt on the windshield washer filler neck.
• 10. Partially pull the assembly out and remove the WW pump electrical connector it's just pressure fit so pull firmly (from the connector NOT the wires).
• 11. Move the reservoir up further and pull out the WW pump output hose. I quickly put my finger over the pump hose opening so that I could drain the WW fluid after it was off the vehicle.
• 12. If you are still with me you have removed your coolant recovery tank / windshield washer reservoir. Before flushing it out I removed the WW pump from the reservoir so that I wouldn't get the electrical connectors on it all wet. Simply pull it straight out of the grommet it is again pressure fit.

Now it's time to drive around and let the solution do it's work.

 

I don't like using Premix in the Fords, as you can't get all the water out after a flush. Then you end up taking new antifreeze out and replacing it to get the freeze point up. RO water rinse flush 3 times, "availible from many groceries." Add measured amount of antifreeze, then top off with RO water. Also, with that big of a mess, I'd take your Aero to a Pro, with the proper equipment to flush, especially if you have rear heat.