rebuilding fuel system
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 137
Likes: 9
From: Southwest Ohio
Today I pulled the selector valve off. One look at the green corroded contacts, along with the molasses in the inlet ports was all it took for me to toss it. I think I am money, time, and reliability ahead to replace it. I ordered the valve and a new plug to splice into the wiring harness if needed. I also flushed a couple of the high presure lines. They were pretty nasty but cleaned up well. I am replacing every rubber fuel line on the truck as well. I hope to have this accomplished over the next couple of days,
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 137
Likes: 9
From: Southwest Ohio
And today i discovered that NOBODY makes the correct selctor valve.....except Ford. I found one in Indiana....275.00 and it is on the way. So final cost for total fuel system rebuild is 700.00....
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 379
Likes: 1
From: Texas
I'm in the fuel system 2 tanks $220 (rear tank is F26E 38 gal), 2 senders T Rex auto $170, 2 gas tank vents $10, 2 new 2" filler hose (had brown/red sludge in old ones) $100, 2 new filler necks stainless steel for a boat $60, 6 pack fuel line to sender retaining clips $10.
I'm sure my selector valve isn't pretty but is it about the same access and time to replace after both fuel tanks are in compared to both fuel tanks out?
If selector valve fails can I expect anymore harm than simply not being able to change from current tank until fixed?
I run a 110 gal aux tank in bed so most likely wouldn't be stuck if low tank and far from stations when selector valve finally goes on strike.
I'm sure my selector valve isn't pretty but is it about the same access and time to replace after both fuel tanks are in compared to both fuel tanks out?
If selector valve fails can I expect anymore harm than simply not being able to change from current tank until fixed?
I run a 110 gal aux tank in bed so most likely wouldn't be stuck if low tank and far from stations when selector valve finally goes on strike.
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
The selector valve's default mode of operation is the rear tank; energizing a solenoid actuates a valve that switches supply tanks.
So, if it fails to energize, the default should be the rear tank - unless the valve itself has gummed up and is sticking, in which case you have other problems....
So, if it fails to energize, the default should be the rear tank - unless the valve itself has gummed up and is sticking, in which case you have other problems....
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 379
Likes: 1
From: Texas
CTUBUTIS YOU'RE A BEAST! THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP IVE SEEN FROM YOU THROUGHOUT POSTS.
I don't plan on replacing valve just found this thread helpful and considered whether it'd be a "necessity" to change with tanks.
Quick question I can't seem to find amongst other threads.
Just blew out my fuel lines under truck with main fuel line on top of I.P. disconnected, fuel line from fuel filter housing and all 8 injector lines disconnected.
When i removed first injector there was some rust, did I mess up using pneumatic air to clear the hole injector came from? SHOULD I RIG UP THE SHOP VAC TO VACUUM THE PIECES OUT OF REMAINING 7 INJECTOR HOLES?
I don't plan on replacing valve just found this thread helpful and considered whether it'd be a "necessity" to change with tanks.
Quick question I can't seem to find amongst other threads.
Just blew out my fuel lines under truck with main fuel line on top of I.P. disconnected, fuel line from fuel filter housing and all 8 injector lines disconnected.
When i removed first injector there was some rust, did I mess up using pneumatic air to clear the hole injector came from? SHOULD I RIG UP THE SHOP VAC TO VACUUM THE PIECES OUT OF REMAINING 7 INJECTOR HOLES?
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
Oh, I dunno, that's gonna be your call. I like to use brake cleaner where I can.
I have never worked on a diesel and nor have I ever blown out any fuel lines so I can't offer any direct experience. Maybe @Franklin2 can say more....
I have never worked on a diesel and nor have I ever blown out any fuel lines so I can't offer any direct experience. Maybe @Franklin2 can say more....
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 379
Likes: 1
From: Texas
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From: Virginia
I would rig up a vacuum cleaner, there is almost no clearance in the chamber of your diesel when the piston comes to the top.
And since you have a diesel, your fuel valve is not the simple valve that ctubutis described, you have a 6 port valve since the diesel has return lines. This valve is made for Ford by Pollack, you can use this term to do a search. The Ford valve that bolts right in and hooks right up is pretty expensive, the local autoparts stores sell the exact same valve, except the wiring plug is different and the fuel line hook-ups are different than the Ford style valve, so some retro-fit will be needed if you get the local store valve. But it is much cheaper.
And since you have a diesel, your fuel valve is not the simple valve that ctubutis described, you have a 6 port valve since the diesel has return lines. This valve is made for Ford by Pollack, you can use this term to do a search. The Ford valve that bolts right in and hooks right up is pretty expensive, the local autoparts stores sell the exact same valve, except the wiring plug is different and the fuel line hook-ups are different than the Ford style valve, so some retro-fit will be needed if you get the local store valve. But it is much cheaper.
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