When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Like a 25 cent ho. You might rehabilitate her. That one piece on top of the magnet is out of your shift fork rail and if that is two that are seen better in the bottom picture same for it. Might as well go ahead and pull the cover. Sandy
Thanks for the knowledge guys, I bought this truck not too long ago and am not very familiar with it yet. I need to do the throw out bearing anyways so i will just change the shift forks while I have it out. Funny thing is it still shifts great, never grinds except very rarely in 3rd. Also there is just one pin, underneath it in the pic was your average hunk of metal.
The trans oil looked very... metallic, I will post the carnage when I take off the top cover.
I plan on doing a zf swap but it seems hard to find one out of a small block truck so I will make due with this until then.
Thanks for the knowledge guys, I bought this truck not too long ago and am not very familiar with it yet. I need to do the throw out bearing anyways so i will just change the shift forks while I have it out. Funny thing is it still shifts great, never grinds except very rarely in 3rd. Also there is just one pin, underneath it in the pic was your average hunk of metal.
The trans oil looked very... metallic, I will post the carnage when I take off the top cover.
I plan on doing a zf swap but it seems hard to find one out of a small block truck so I will make due with this until then.
I have seen this happen with the shift rail part in the pan before. It usually happens when the forks are worn and they slip over the transmission part they ride in and it locks in gear. With a lot of force the driver moves the shifter back and the rail with the shift fork tries to move or does move and the pin is exposed to the the hole where it is installed in the rail and it pops out. So I think your forks will need to be replaced.
The other thing is the rubber plugs you will remove to replace the forks and the other end that has plugs/caps of which one or both ends of the cover is probably leaking. I would pull the cover and replace the part and put in the new forks. Seal the rubber plugs after reinstalling with RTV or metal freeze caps if you want. Do a search and you will find out what this means if you are not sure. After you do that, the suspected leak may just be caused by the issue I am describing. So before you pull the tranny I would do the above to avoid unnecessary maintenance if possible. Those rubber plugs are notorious for failing. If your fluid was low when you drained it based on quantity you got out then they are leaking, or the other end with the three caps (one of which could be missing) is leaking when you are driving. Sandy
I have seen this happen with the shift rail part in the pan before. It usually happens when the forks are worn and they slip over the transmission part they ride in and it locks in gear. With a lot of force the driver moves the shifter back and the rail with the shift fork tries to move or does move and the pin is exposed to the the hole where it is installed in the rail and it pops out. So I think your forks will need to be replaced.
The other thing is the rubber plugs you will remove to replace the forks and the other end that has plugs/caps of which one or both ends of the cover is probably leaking. I would pull the cover and replace the part and put in the new forks. Seal the rubber plugs after reinstalling with RTV or metal freeze caps if you want. Do a search and you will find out what this means if you are not sure. After you do that, the suspected leak may just be caused by the issue I am describing. So before you pull the tranny I would do the above to avoid unnecessary maintenance if possible. Those rubber plugs are notorious for failing. If your fluid was low when you drained it based on quantity you got out then they are leaking, or the other end with the three caps (one of which could be missing) is leaking when you are driving. Sandy
This helps a lot thank you , very specific information that relates directly to my issue. Yea it was about a quart low when I drained it so I will do everything you said before I drop it if I even need to, the throw out bearing is noisy but i'm sure I can get some miles out of it maybe enough for me to source a nice zf.
This helps a lot thank you , very specific information that relates directly to my issue. Yea it was about a quart low when I drained it so I will do everything you said before I drop it if I even need to, the throw out bearing is noisy but i'm sure I can get some miles out of it maybe enough for me to source a nice zf.
If you are not sure about how to replace that part, Click my name and in my post of 4 or so months ago I helped a lady do this that did not even know how to shift a standard. So, it is pretty much step by step if you want to look at it. Lastly make sure your shifter is in neutral when you pull the cover.
After you fix it when driving do not rest your hand on the shift lever as it contributes to the issue you have. Also if you are at a stop light and have time shift into neutral to disengage the throw out bearing and prevent wear. Good luck and let us know how it goes or if you have a question. Sandy
You may not be in that bad of shape, especially if the plug's never been out or the top cover's never been off.
Mine looked almost as bad as that, minus the pin, and after a thorough going-through of the transmission, repairing the top cover plugs, new clutch, new TB, new slave and master, couple drain and flush and refills, it's smooth and quiet.
I've also had the shift forks replaced in the past due to wear. Most of what wore off either ended up on the plug, or in the little plastic scraper pan under the cover.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.