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I had the cast gear ('89 302) replaced with the steel gear off of the '98 Explorer camshaft synchronizer to use for my roller cam. The problem is that the gear is hitting the support in the block before the distributor is fully seated. There is maybe 1/16" to go before that happens. I tried both the Explorer housing (without a gear) and an old distributor out of my '87 Bronco and they both seat flush on the block. I put a dab of grease on the gear and it is definitely contacting the support. Looking at replacement distributor gears there appears to only be the choice of material and not pin location in the gear. Would it be alright to run it that way?
Are you sure it's completely connecting to the oil pump shaft? I would hold down on the distributer while someone bumps the key a couple times and see if it drops in, you will have to time it again reguardless.
No, when you tighten the dist hold down bolt you will put it in a bind. You can find the measurement online for where to place the gear, but basically you need the gear and the dist body both to seat against the block,and still be able to lift the dist shaft up a little while the dist is locked down with the hold down bolt.
I'm positive that the gear is what is preventing it from seating the rest of the way. I hadn't thought about the hold down putting even more pressure on the dist gear. I have another distributor on order. It should be here in a couple days. The 'new' gear was put in the same place that old cast gear was located since that is where the hole was in the dist shaft. There must be more distance between the (factory) hole for the pin and the bottom of the steel gear
I don't see how you could drill a new hole in the distributor shaft without weakening the shaft. It needs a little more than 1/16" to seat on the block.
It is the original distributor and it used to be fine. Both the Explorer housing (w/o a gear) and my '87 distributor with the cast gear drop right in.
I don't see how you could drill a new hole in the distributor shaft without weakening the shaft.
If the gear has a hole in it, you can turn it so the new hole is 90 degrees from the original one. Or you can drill a new hole through the gear and shaft if you want to get it farther away from the original hole. Weakening the shaft is not a prob.
Went through this when I converted my Lightning to HR cam.
Some replacement gears have different dimensions than the original gears that's why shops that do a lot of Fords simply drill a new hole... there are many on-line discussions about this...
Both are OEM gears off 302 engines with well over 100K miles on them.
But they are different (differing pin locations).
I guess I incorrectly assumed they would just swap out and be fine.
You know what you get when you a$$-u-me don't 'ya?
The gear has to be at a specific distance to ride on the cam properly. This info should be in the FORD PP Catalog as well as correct replacement gears.
The man is correct in having to re-drill the hole at times.
Yes I know. Why? Why would two stock engines with stock components have different pin locations in the distributor gear?
I had the cast gear ('89 302) replaced with the steel gear off of the '98 Explorer camshaft synchronizer...
You have two differing systems/applications here.
The correct replacement gear is (was) available through FORD MOTORSPORT or whatever they are calling themselves this month.
It should also be available OTC or aftermarket. I think you were trying to save money which I understand. You need to find a roller cam MUST dist. for a take-off gear.