Distributor swap
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Junior User
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Distributor swap
I may be switching back to the stock Motorcraft Distributor on my '78 F250 and would like to know what the best way to swap the distributor gear would be? When I bought the truck it had an aftermarket Accel distributor that has been trouble since I bought the truck and since the truck has an unknown aftermarket camshaft, I cannot just stab an old stock distributor in there without swapping the gear from the Accel unit.
Once I punch out the roll pin, should I freeze the distributor overnight or try heating the gear to get it off with my bearing splitter? Is it better to remove the gear from the shaft or is it easier to remove the whole shaft altogether and swap the whole thing in the stock distributor housing?
I hope to hear from those who have actually done distributor gear swaps before and not someone like myself who only has a theory on how it should be done.
Once I punch out the roll pin, should I freeze the distributor overnight or try heating the gear to get it off with my bearing splitter? Is it better to remove the gear from the shaft or is it easier to remove the whole shaft altogether and swap the whole thing in the stock distributor housing?
I hope to hear from those who have actually done distributor gear swaps before and not someone like myself who only has a theory on how it should be done.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
There is nothing wrong with installing a new distributor with the gear it has. But if you are dead set on changing the gear it has to come off the bottom before the shaft can be removed. A gear puller will accomplish this but you will need the right jaw type to pull against the base of the gear(not the teeth) as those will break off rather easily on a cast gear.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Albuquerque
Unless the cam is a roller lifter model. Then there are different gear options. I've had trouble with MSD dizzies getting the gear on and off. Had to use a puller to get it off and heat the gear/freeze the shaft to get it back on using a socket for a driver and supporting the other end of the shaft on a cushion.
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2013
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There is nothing wrong with installing a new distributor with the gear it has. But if you are dead set on changing the gear it has to come off the bottom before the shaft can be removed. A gear puller will accomplish this but you will need the right jaw type to pull against the base of the gear(not the teeth) as those will break off rather easily on a cast gear.
A gear puller will not safely accomplish the removal of the distributor gear, that is why I mentioned using a bearing remover/splitter instead as to not damage the teeth like a jaw type puller would most likely do.
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2013
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The truck ran really nice and was quite powerful before the distributor started giving me headaches. The engine alone was dynoed at over 350HP and buying a new camshaft and matching distributor would not only cost more than I have in the whole truck(it's a long story), but it really wouldn't make sense to mess with a good thing. A distributor gear swap would also be a lot less work than installing a new camshaft.
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FTE Legend
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
OK.. you'll have to forgive us our presumptions because I can't say I have ever seen a combo like that, any cam you buys these days will have a standard diameter gear on it.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2011
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From: On the Edge of the Desert
What engine do you have???
At this point, I'm gonna say you need to pull the cam, measure it and the gear and figure out what it really is. And possibly replace it with a cam better suited to your wants and needs. One with a STANDARD gear.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Albuquerque
There are two common shaft diameters. .500 and .510 or something like that. Don't know why. As far as the gear teeth, the same dizzy and gear fits
351c, 351m, 400, 429, 460. The same dizzy works on the 351w with a "different" gear!
351c, 351m, 400, 429, 460. The same dizzy works on the 351w with a "different" gear!
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