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So I'm trying to check the state of my valves and valve seals due to a multiple snapped push rods. I have the cylinder heads pulled off the engine and none of the valves seem stuck. I rented a valve spring compressor and the springs compress just fine but there is a small sleeve that wraps around the valve spring lock that is completely stuck to the lock itself and/or the valve stem. I have sprayed tons of pb blaster, put a socket on it and hit it with a mallet and tried prying it gently with a screwdriver...any other ideas?
Also is there anything else I should check? I am an extreme amateur when it comes to working on trucks. I just bought a '69 F250 and drove it home to find 2 snapped push rods and 1 bent one. The thin metal tray in between the intake manifold and engine block (not sure what its called?) was also completely shredded...probably from push rod parts bouncing around in there. The lifters all seem undamaged and are moving freely when I turn the engine over by hand. The pistons and cylinder walls look clean and don't have any wear or burrs.
So I'm trying to check the state of my valves and valve seals due to a multiple snapped push rods. I have the cylinder heads pulled off the engine and none of the valves seem stuck. I rented a valve spring compressor and the springs compress just fine but there is a small sleeve that wraps around the valve spring lock that is completely stuck to the lock itself and/or the valve stem. I have sprayed tons of pb blaster, put a socket on it and hit it with a mallet and tried prying it gently with a screwdriver...any other ideas?
I gather you are talking about the 6517 in the pic below. I have never ran across this problem. The 6518 valve stem keepers are tapered so you would have to tap the 6517 "down". And only tap on the top of the 6517. See if you can use the right sized socket to rest on the top of the 6517 but not touch the 6518s. Then tap that socket.
FTE is there anyone in South GA that can offer some hands on help? I wish I was closer. If you have the heads off. turn them so the valves are face up with the spark plug screwed in. Pour some gas in each valve relief to verify you do not have any leaky valves. If all that checks out, you should do new valve seals and clean any carbon build-up on the valves.
thanks for all the help. I ended up having to use a socket and c-clamp to get the sleeve to pop loose. I plan on replacing all the valve seals but everything else looks good. Well almost everything...the top outside of the valve guides are worn. Is this something that definitely needs replacing? I only need to drive the truck a short distance and I know I would have to find a machinist to replace valve guides. Here is a picture of the 3 worn guides.
There is no way I would go with those the way they are. The valves are prolly hosed also. The more the guides get worn the faster they wear. You got it apart so you really ought to do it right.
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