4r100 bypass delete
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4r100 bypass delete
i just purchased a 2003 f350, 7.3. i had to swap out the flexplate so i thought while i was at it i would take out the bypass of the tranny cooler (had a brief tranny heat up on the 400 mile return trip from purchasing it)
i ordered the BD kit which was just 2 spacers and 4 washers. i have not put any miles on it but now i am a little worried...
1. if the ball and valve in the banjo bolt are the culprits of a tranny over heating, what happens if they mess up now?, there wont be any fluid getting to the cooler?
2. i just looked and saw one product that gave a new banjo bolt without the spring and valve, i guess that could be an option.
3. i also just saw a valve rebuild kit, i just looked at the bolt briefly when working on it, but how do you access everything? anybody done this?
i ordered the BD kit which was just 2 spacers and 4 washers. i have not put any miles on it but now i am a little worried...
1. if the ball and valve in the banjo bolt are the culprits of a tranny over heating, what happens if they mess up now?, there wont be any fluid getting to the cooler?
2. i just looked and saw one product that gave a new banjo bolt without the spring and valve, i guess that could be an option.
3. i also just saw a valve rebuild kit, i just looked at the bolt briefly when working on it, but how do you access everything? anybody done this?
Frmr Ford Trans Engr
Joined: Aug 1999
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From: SE Florida
The valve rebuild kit is the way to go.
If you have the delete kit installed and the cooler circuit gets restricted for some reason the first clue you'll have is when the trans destroys itself. The return from the cooler is used to lube the rear half of the transmission. If the circuit is restricted the there is no bypass, then there is no lube. Instant failure.
If you have the delete kit installed and the cooler circuit gets restricted for some reason the first clue you'll have is when the trans destroys itself. The return from the cooler is used to lube the rear half of the transmission. If the circuit is restricted the there is no bypass, then there is no lube. Instant failure.
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thanks mark, that is what i was thinking after putting it in, along with the fact that if the valve wasnt working correctly it would block everything.
have you done the valve rebuild?, how do you access the valve in the banjo bolt? i didnt look closely when i put in the delete spacers
have you done the valve rebuild?, how do you access the valve in the banjo bolt? i didnt look closely when i put in the delete spacers
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2008
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From: South Jersey
I have that delete kit on my 2004 f350 and i installed one on my dad's 2000 f350 7.3. My dad had 178k when he traded it in on a little f150 two years ago all stock and still going strong. I have 160k on my f350 and never had a problem with the delete bypass kit, my trans stays at 150 degrees all summer (big help is the 6.0 cooler)
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2008
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From: South Jersey
If the coolers clog for some reason it's because the trans is already on it's way out and needs a rebuild regardless. I'd rather have 100% cooling than who knows what beacse of some bypass ball and spring that fails. And since ford has NOTHING more than an idiot gauge for the temp you have no idea what's going on. My factory gauge shows normal when my digital gauge I installed only reads around 90 degrees.... when its 150degrees stock gauge still reads normal. When you firstvstart the truck after its sat stock gauge gies nornal within a few miles yet my new digital gauge doesn't even come off 80 degrees so take that as you will
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Frmr Ford Trans Engr
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 24,725
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From: SE Florida
I have that delete kit on my 2004 f350 and i installed one on my dad's 2000 f350 7.3. My dad had 178k when he traded it in on a little f150 two years ago all stock and still going strong. I have 160k on my f350 and never had a problem with the delete bypass kit, my trans stays at 150 degrees all summer (big help is the 6.0 cooler)
If something damages a cooler line, or crud builds up in a cooler not having a bypass means the first thing you'll see is the trans fails. If you had a bypass the trans would start to get hot due to reduced cooling and you have time to fix the restriction.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2008
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From: South Jersey
And early trucks don't even have an idiot gauge, and the trucks that do like my 2004 it's so worthless the range isn't even close to being accurate. There's threads on this site where people over heated their 4r100 and the stock gauge still read normal
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Damon (South East Texas)
A very good reason to add a gauge pod and aftermarket gauges. The factory ones are pretty much useless.
Frmr Ford Trans Engr
Joined: Aug 1999
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From: SE Florida
They read in the middle of normal from 50°F to 230°F, then move to yellow.
How hot did they get without the gauge moving?
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2008
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From: South Jersey
but I'm not here to bicker with you Mark, your knowledge is well know here and I put my expire nice about the block off kit. Me nor my father's truck has had any issues with it removed and a huge 4r100 builder removes them from all his builds so that was my reasoning for doing it. And if I do sell my f350 and buy a 7.3 powered excursion soon I'm putting a delete kit on it as well
Frmr Ford Trans Engr
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 24,725
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From: SE Florida
I didn't say it was useful, I said it was accurate. It is accurate. If it goes to yellow you know with a great deal of certainty that your trans is warmer than 230°F.
230°F isn't higher than the fluid should be. You can go up to 250°F for no more than a half hour at a time and not hurt anything. Some of the plastic parts in the trans can get soft if they are above 250°F for more than a half hour. But the fluid isn't ruined at that temp. Fluid doesn't boil at 240°F. It boils at well over 450°F.
230°F isn't higher than the fluid should be. You can go up to 250°F for no more than a half hour at a time and not hurt anything. Some of the plastic parts in the trans can get soft if they are above 250°F for more than a half hour. But the fluid isn't ruined at that temp. Fluid doesn't boil at 240°F. It boils at well over 450°F.
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my bypass valve rebuild just came in, so i am trying to get my head around a few things. for the bypass to get pressure, first the banjo bolt needs to have pressure that depresses the ball blocking fluid and then the pressure redirected to the bypass will have to depress the spring in the valve i am rebuilding to have fluid movement via the bypass?
if this is true, the banjo bolts could have just as likely caused the quick spike in temperature that i had if they got obstructed or just malfunctioned?
it would almost seem that if that is how it works, then why have the spring/ball in the banjo bolt?, if the cooler gets obstructed, pressure builds up and pushes open the bypass valve, no need for the banjo...obviously i am missing something???
or just overthinking everything...another option is to just buy new banjo bolts and install all of it together and be done with it, lol
if this is true, the banjo bolts could have just as likely caused the quick spike in temperature that i had if they got obstructed or just malfunctioned?
it would almost seem that if that is how it works, then why have the spring/ball in the banjo bolt?, if the cooler gets obstructed, pressure builds up and pushes open the bypass valve, no need for the banjo...obviously i am missing something???
or just overthinking everything...another option is to just buy new banjo bolts and install all of it together and be done with it, lol