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How many responders here have actually looked in their Sterling 10.5?
Most all of them appear to have had pinion to carrier contact (like the first picture) and they have not. All three of mine (1999, 2000, and 2002) have those exact same marks as well as just about every 10.5 I've taken apart in the professional automotive technician world from 1999-2010. I promise you that if there was really contact, there would be more than just a little bit of powder on the magnet and there would be absolute bearing destruction in a very short amount of time with all the metal SHAVINGS that would be floating around.
Wow! OK, that's awesome! The slight clunk could just be the 7.3 clunk and I can find that procedure in the forum here. I'll take it back apart and add another $50 worth of fresh oil after a thorough cleaning. I didn't clean it all out when I put it back together the first time because I feared I would have to install a new diff. If that's common and no big deal, I'll just clean and reoil it. Thank you!
Btw what should I use to clean it? Just break cleaner?
FYI. As far as loose axle going into the rear differential...
I recently replaced the front pinion seal and the bearing (not the race),which was a pretty simple knock-it-out for the seal, pull out the bearing and inspect it, check over the race, insert new bearing, press in new seal with giant round piece of steel.
All while on the truck (chock all the wheels).
IIRC, the bearing was about $20 or less, seal around $10-$12 maybe?
Check your universals (ujoints). I replaced the rear one on the rear drive shaft TWICE and the front one once, which is what I figured made the seal eventually leak.
I've had 3 apart and they all had the same hatch. I was alarmed at first but was quickly corrected by a tech that all was well.
I would however clean the diff and make sure you use the correct gear lube and modifier.
Denny
So Denny, you like hang'n on Cletus's nu#@, or you became enlightened over the last few months, because you posted in mine something completely different..post #5
FYI. As far as loose axle going into the rear differential...
I recently replaced the front pinion seal and the bearing (not the race),which was a pretty simple knock-it-out for the seal, pull out the bearing and inspect it, check over the race, insert new bearing, press in new seal with giant round piece of steel.
All while on the truck (chock all the wheels).
IIRC, the bearing was about $20 or less, seal around $10-$12 maybe?
Check your universals (ujoints). I replaced the rear one on the rear drive shaft TWICE and the front one once, which is what I figured made the seal eventually leak.
Hope this helps.
It does, thank you. I'm going to have the shaft off to live the spline, so I will also replace the u-joints and carrier bearing. Hopefully that takes care of the noise. I've looked at several different articles and videos, but not real confident with my understanding, so I hope the other stuff takes care of it.
Thank you exPA
Yes, I was enlightened in the past few months. I think May was go around two and June was three.
I replaced the open diff to a LS because I plow in northern Michigan. That was my May learning curve. I had terrible chatter and my clutches were toast so I just put another under it as an open until I can decide on the LS or go with a locker.
The one I offered you for FREE was the open diff that just needed a yoke.
Hahaha...guess I should be smacked upside the head with a dingleberry, since I started a new thread in regards to an upcoming Under The Knife thread, with truck having a date with the axle rebuilder. Maybe then, you could've enlightened the thread with your findings..(my original thread where I posted pics, in march)...owell, 4,10s sure are nice to tow with 😉
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