Ok, I will have to rebuild the rear diff on my truck. How difficult is this differential? Do I need special tools?

I have built 9" rears in my past.

 

Not complicated with the right tools. What do you "have" to rebuild? (clutches, seals, bearings) I'm in the middle of it right now, I'll be putting it back together tomorrow. New carrier, pinion repair sleeve for champion flange, new outer axle seals and new bearings for pinion, carrier, and outer wheels. Over 3 dead presidents in bearings alone!

 

LOL Cheaper than 1500 dead presidents.

 

And we still need one more

 

I did mine as a first timer. It was not difficult. I read a repair manual by Randy's Ring and Pinion that explained it well. The only thing I would suggest is buying an extra pair of carrier bearings. If your old bearings come off without damage, then you can use those and you won't have to buy extras. The reason for this is if you have to adjust the ring gear to one side or the other, you have to add/subtract shims from behind the carrier bearings. And they don't come off easily. So, you take your old bearings, or the new extra bearings, and hone them out so they slip on the carrier easily. Use these to do your shimming with. Once you get it right install your shims and then your new bearings. This way you don't have to use a puller to remove the bearings that were pressed on and stand a good chance of damaging them.

 

On the 10.5 Ford/Sterling carrier, the shims are between the bearing races (cups) and the axle housing. Your procedure applies to the Dana 80 (Good idea). When I put my Tru Trac diff in, I purchased the carrier bearing shim kits to adjust the backlash as necessary.

 

Thanks for all the info! I am guessing I have to replace the carrier bearings. I will open it up this morning. I pray the gears are OK.

 

I opened it up and nothing is obvious. There were metal flakes at the bottom which may indicate bearing spalling or it may be clutch wear. There was enough metal flake to cover the tip of your finger. I have three questions.

1. Should the gears be shiny where the contact is (R&P)? This looks a little dull and scratchy to me. I am used to seeing shiny metal where the gears run.

2. How important is it to run full synthetic? I have GL-5 85-140 but it is not synthetic.

3. How much metal flake should I see?

 

Would like to know also?