I posted something like this in the engine building section of the forum but haven't received any info, so I will try here to see if you guys can offer some insight

I am putting my beat up 96 F150 under the knife for some much needed repair and maintenance. I'm fixing primarily rust issues but am strongly considering an engine swap while I'm at it. The truck currently is a 5.0 5 speed 4x4 and runs and drives great (more reliable than my 2015 Chevy). The issue is that it completely falls on its face while towing and to get anywhere with a trailer you need to rev it to the moon. My solution for this is an engine swap for something with a longer stroke. I figure a longer stroke should give me more torque at a lower (more useable rpm). My plans as of now are a 351w with a scat crank, stock 351 truck rods, e303 cam & gt40 heads. I have the heads sitting in the shed already and I figure the e303 is a decent torque cam in a mustang so with the extra 92 cubes it should work well. My question is what do you typically use for pistons? I have heard many people say use stock 302 pistons but I worry about compression being too high. I want to keep his budget friendly but want it done right! It's a truck so it won't be seeing 6k rpm or 500 hp so I think stock truck rods should do, but I want some opinions. If you have built something like his what did you do? How is longevity with the long stroke engine? What have you done with the electronics, etc. to run it? Fuel system mods? Trying to lay it all out before I start and end up getting in over my head. I know that the mazda trans that they put behind the 5.0 will die with the added power, so I will probably be looking at a zf swap to go with it. I would appreciate some input from someone who has been there done that.
Thanks!

 

A mustang weighs what... 3500lbs, and most owners are only interested in 1/4 mile times. What qualifies as torquey in something that light is 90lb weakling in a fullsize truck. Do not use that cam use something like the Comp XE264HR-14.. 35-349-8, that should make for a real stump puller with all that displacement.

Why are you trying to peacmeal this together, buy a complete cast(not forged) stroker assembly and be done with all the guess work.

How many 460s do you see blowing up for no reason? Stroke is a non issue as far as reliability is concerned.

Now you are getting into the hard part. Your motor may not need a lot more total fuel but it's instantaneous fueling requirements will be higher across the board than a stock 5.0, so you have 2 options. Add a tuner (Mates Quarterhorse) and dial in the parameters for larger injectors and MAF meter, or swap in a 7.5 PCM with the matching 24lb injectors and meter and run it stock. You will need a Cali OBD2 7.5 PCM but they are available it would seem.

 

Thanks for the info. I was going with stock rods and pistons trying to save a little $ where I can but, that may not be the case in the long run.

 

Yes by the time you collect everything and get machine work done the complete kit will be cheaper. I discovered the same thing when I built a 5.8 years ago, I started with a carbed 351 but then had to find and buy all the EFI parts that won't transfer from the 5.0.. distributor, complete intake, fuel rail, some smog parts.
And same goes with con rods, I had ARP bolts installed in the stock rods but then they needed machine work, I could have bought aftermarket rods with ARP bolts for less.