Recommendations for Towing Setup...
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 217
Likes: 2
From: the Mtns of Santa Cruz
Slice and dice. If you want the best connection, solder the connections and then shrink wrap. The best shrink wrap is the stuff with the glue inside it.
I would get a testlight and verify everything before cutting and hooking it up.
You can take a ohmmeter and ring out the blue wire by touching it to ground.
I would see if one of those wires was hot under the dash, and also if one was hot when you pressed the brake. I don't know why, but all the brake controller instructions insist you run the white ground wire all the way to the battery. I just do it, so that is another wire you will have to run. If it ends up you don't have a hot wire under the dash, I just usually run another wire along with the ground to the battery, and put a 30 amp circuit breaker on the end and hook it to the battery +
I would then get the truck lights working, and verify the functions of the wires in the back, running lights and left and right turn/brake.
You also may want a trailer battery charge wire. If you can't find one, you can run one of those and hook it also to the 30 amp circuit breaker at the battery.
I bet this trailer is over 2000 lbs if it has trailer brakes. In my state you are not require to have trailer brakes unless you are 3500lbs and over. That is loaded or GVWR.
I would get a testlight and verify everything before cutting and hooking it up.
You can take a ohmmeter and ring out the blue wire by touching it to ground.
I would see if one of those wires was hot under the dash, and also if one was hot when you pressed the brake. I don't know why, but all the brake controller instructions insist you run the white ground wire all the way to the battery. I just do it, so that is another wire you will have to run. If it ends up you don't have a hot wire under the dash, I just usually run another wire along with the ground to the battery, and put a 30 amp circuit breaker on the end and hook it to the battery +
I would then get the truck lights working, and verify the functions of the wires in the back, running lights and left and right turn/brake.
You also may want a trailer battery charge wire. If you can't find one, you can run one of those and hook it also to the 30 amp circuit breaker at the battery.
I bet this trailer is over 2000 lbs if it has trailer brakes. In my state you are not require to have trailer brakes unless you are 3500lbs and over. That is loaded or GVWR.
All good stuff... and I'm curious if my set up reflects the EVTM diagram which shows a "hot" line to the battery already existing through the Fuse Link F.
I'll certainly double check the pin out for the other plugs in the back (already confirmed the EBC connector) ... but the answer to my initial question about getting something to jumper all those loose connectors into one 7 pin is... nope... there is no such thing. But that doesn't mean I can't make one of my own
I'll just need to find out if the existing connectors still exist as a part number that is avail.... one step closer... thx
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 217
Likes: 2
From: the Mtns of Santa Cruz
You know I don't get what Ford was thinking on the trailer brake wiring running a 2 brake light wire to the rear?
Most pick up the brake lights thru the left/right turn like the trucks lights are.
As said you will have to ping out the wires to see what they do.
1 of the connectors should be to the lights in the bed how many do you have left over?
The Truck's rear lights (brake, running, sig, etc) are on a dedicated harness... separate from the trailer harness... at least on my rig.
I have not seen it brought up in the "trailer light harness" thread for part number(s) and thought it was just "A" front part but????
Now thinking being there should be a relay for trailer running lights, do you see this under the hood on the fire wall?, that then must run to the rear so wonder if they ran a trailer harness and did not tap into the trucks harness with a "T" connector like you can get and I will run and why you have the other plugs?
I believe I do have a relay specifically for the trailer lights on the firewall... hiding next to the Brake assist canister...
That then brings up what "pig tail" plugs into the other connectors that you can then run to a 7 pin trailer connector? EXACTLY!
Any part numbers for the front harness and if a rear numbers for it?
I like that controller, should work fine.
If you can and they have it get the wire adaptor from controller to the trucks wiring or a pig tail from controller to...... Working on it...
Yes mount it as per instructions and mount it to the right of the column so you don't keep hitting it getting in & out of the truck. Even on the right you may hit it but no where as much if on the left. GOOD THOUGHT!
Dave ----
Most pick up the brake lights thru the left/right turn like the trucks lights are.
As said you will have to ping out the wires to see what they do.
1 of the connectors should be to the lights in the bed how many do you have left over?
The Truck's rear lights (brake, running, sig, etc) are on a dedicated harness... separate from the trailer harness... at least on my rig.
I have not seen it brought up in the "trailer light harness" thread for part number(s) and thought it was just "A" front part but????
Now thinking being there should be a relay for trailer running lights, do you see this under the hood on the fire wall?, that then must run to the rear so wonder if they ran a trailer harness and did not tap into the trucks harness with a "T" connector like you can get and I will run and why you have the other plugs?
I believe I do have a relay specifically for the trailer lights on the firewall... hiding next to the Brake assist canister...
That then brings up what "pig tail" plugs into the other connectors that you can then run to a 7 pin trailer connector? EXACTLY!
Any part numbers for the front harness and if a rear numbers for it?
I like that controller, should work fine.
If you can and they have it get the wire adaptor from controller to the trucks wiring or a pig tail from controller to...... Working on it...
Yes mount it as per instructions and mount it to the right of the column so you don't keep hitting it getting in & out of the truck. Even on the right you may hit it but no where as much if on the left. GOOD THOUGHT!
Dave ----
I'll trace the trailer harness all the way back and report what I find. Meanwhile... I wonder if there is part number for the original intended TEBC unit !?! ... not that I'd get one, even if avail. But I'd be impressed if it was!
Former Vendor
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 99
Likes: 0
Ford didn't start prewiring their trucks for the easy brake controller install until the 1994 model year, so if your truck is older than that (as your signature would seem to indicate) you'll need to hardwire the controller. It's actually a fairly easy procedure, you'll need to tie the red wire of the controller into cold side circuit of the brake stoplight switch located at the top of the brake pedal. There can be several wires exiting the switch, use the wire that only shows voltage with the brake pedal pressed (not with the headlights, turn signals, hazard flashers, etc).
I'd strongly agree that going with a proportional controller is the way to go for the safest, most reliable and predictable braking.
For more information about choosing accessories and how to install the controller, use the link below:
https://www.etrailer.com/expert-92.html
I'd strongly agree that going with a proportional controller is the way to go for the safest, most reliable and predictable braking.
For more information about choosing accessories and how to install the controller, use the link below:
https://www.etrailer.com/expert-92.html
Thread Starter
|
Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 217
Likes: 2
From: the Mtns of Santa Cruz
Ford didn't start prewiring their trucks for the easy brake controller install until the 1994 model year, so if your truck is older than that (as your signature would seem to indicate) you'll need to hardwire the controller. It's actually a fairly easy procedure, you'll need to tie the red wire of the controller into cold side circuit of the brake stoplight switch located at the top of the brake pedal. There can be several wires exiting the switch, use the wire that only shows voltage with the brake pedal pressed (not with the headlights, turn signals, hazard flashers, etc).
I'd strongly agree that going with a proportional controller is the way to go for the safest, most reliable and predictable braking.
For more information about choosing accessories and how to install the controller, use the link below:
https://www.etrailer.com/expert-92.html
I'd strongly agree that going with a proportional controller is the way to go for the safest, most reliable and predictable braking.
For more information about choosing accessories and how to install the controller, use the link below:
https://www.etrailer.com/expert-92.html
I have a harness (3 wire) that runs from under the dash to the back... it came with the truck and looks to be factory, as it uses the OEM connectors that operate the rear brake, running, signal functions. nothing about it screams aftermarket. But getting from the Brake Control unit to that connector under the dash will be easy, as you described.
Thx for your help on Friday... I'm just about ready to pull the trigger in my order...
Former Vendor
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 99
Likes: 0
If you don't already have a trailer connector on the truck, the easy way to tap into the connector you found is to use a T connector like the 118313 from Tekonsha then use an adapter like 37185 from Hopkins to convert that 4 pin to a 7-way. The adapter has 3 extra wires, the black wire runs up to the battery through an inline 40a breaker, the blue wire runs up to the front, into the cab and connects to the blue brake controller wire and carries the brake output. The white wire grounds to the truck frame and the purple wire, which typically carries the reverse lamp circuit can be tapped into the truck's revers lamp circuit if necessary.
My name's Mike. Let me know if we can help further.
My name's Mike. Let me know if we can help further.
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,940
Likes: 4,125
From: Angier, NC
Thank you Mike,
I took down the numbers as I know I will need to run wires for the brake controller on my project truck when the time comes.
I already have the T connector as it came with the truck and I will be wiring it in to a 7 flat pin connector.
Thanks again
Dave ----
I took down the numbers as I know I will need to run wires for the brake controller on my project truck when the time comes.
I already have the T connector as it came with the truck and I will be wiring it in to a 7 flat pin connector.
Thanks again
Dave ----
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 217
Likes: 2
From: the Mtns of Santa Cruz
... yes, thx, Mike...
I'll be building a pigtail to get from the existing set of connectors to the 7way panel I ordered.
Makes me wonder what those dedicated trailer connectors were supposed to mate with in the first place... back in the late 80's
I'll be building a pigtail to get from the existing set of connectors to the 7way panel I ordered.
Makes me wonder what those dedicated trailer connectors were supposed to mate with in the first place... back in the late 80's
Former Vendor
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 99
Likes: 0
Hard to tell. There might have been and OEM option that's no longer available due to the age of the truck, I've seen that happen. Another problem you run into with older vehicles is previous owners that didn't know what they're doing messing with the wiring. Like wiring the trailer brakes into the brake lamps (no brake controller). The idea that folks like that are driving around scares the heck out of me.
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