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time to look at the rear end re. towing... a primary motivation for me getting the beast back up and running!
I'm looking mostly for recommendations here... but I do have a few questions and I KNOW you guys can set me straight...
Bear with me... this is a lot of stuff in one post... sorry bout that
I found a very helpful post trying to make sense out of the wiring mess in the back (and I'll perform a full continuity test soon) and in researching my setup a bit further it looks like the towing harness is equipped for Trailer Electronic Brake Control... but I'm not finding the control sending unit for that (it's... "attached to the brake pedal"... according to the EVTM)
Was that a factory option that I don't have?
Other than the brake light switch... I only found this attached to the brake pedal: (which looks more like a safety or warning device)
... is this related to the TEBC
Based on the EVTM description, I can only assume that this is the connector for the electronic trailer brake control...? (C1101)
... and if so... are the brake control units available? Are they worth installing? (depends on what I'm towing, certainly)
(my wife went out and bought a small camper that just happens to have elect. brakes... clearly she's as excited about getting this thing on the road as I am )
Moving on...
Looking at wiring setups... I'm confused about how the 3 connectors at the end of the tow harness terminate into a single multipin connector.
I want to end up with a single 6 pin connector to accommodate all the usual stuff plus the electric trailer brakes. I'd also like to have the option to jumper to the 4-pin connector as well.
I'm not sure a T connector is what I'm looking for.
Recommendations?
Next up...
I don't see (or suspect) that anyone uses the generic ball that is attached to the bumper for towing. It's pretty high off the ground on most of the larger vehicles... mine's 25" to the ball center. I'm looking at a Curt Class V hitch rated at 16K lbs... any regular "towers" out there care to chime in?
And as far as ball mounts go... any thoughts or experience with the adjustable ones?
thx... and I hope everyone's been surviving the Summer so far
Ok ot to make this quick ot to et up at 12 mid nite for work!
As you pointed out you will most likely want to get a receiver so you can use other ball sizes and drops depending on the different trailers you may pull like the one I pictured.
I don't remember what the limit is on that one but O am sure it is lower because it is a bolt together type.
You did not say what it is you are going to be pulling but thinking if it has electric brakes it has some size to it. With that you may need a weight distribution setup. This helps move some of the trailer tongue weight off the rear of the tow unit and places on the front of the tow unit. Some of the WD setups also have sway control. My dad used this type, WD & sway, with his travel trailers but I only use WD with my open deck car trailer and only with my02 Durango, I did not need a WD setup with my 86 K5 Blazer.
I will say if you do go with a WD setup get one you can get extra parts for the trailer side. This way if you et another trailer that you need a WD for you buy the trailer parts and use your bars & ball mount, that is if the ball is the same size & drop.
I is easy to pick up the ball mount in the size you need as just about every one has them, same with the *****. Sometimes you can get them at tag sales. I have a bunch of different drops & size ***** for different trailers I have towed over the years, even my garden tractor has a hitch I can change drops & ***** sizes.
Electric brake controllers: They have come a long way over the years, not more need to hook it in to a brake line. Get one that is proportional and for the number of axles that have brakes on them but a min. of 2 axles (4 wheels) as that is most likely what you could pull.
As for wiring my 02 Durango I bought with the trailer package so all wiring was there and I just needed to buy a controller with pig tail and plug it in and I was set.
Now my 81 F100 is a different story. It did come with a trailer light "T" that fits on the rear light harness and I will use that for the lights.
I will have to run wires for electric brakes and power (12 volts) if I want to charge a batt in a camper. Back in the day that is how we did all wiring - we ran it!
Look over the Etrailer site so you can see what you can get and what you may have to make but I an sure they have everything you would need.
If you have question just ask
sorry not a Ford but so you know what I tow most of the time but have towed travel trailers & a 2 car open deck trailer.
1 of many trips to OH from CT to race.
Dave ----
... thx for taking the tine to break all that out, Dave... appreciate it.
Weight wise, the trailer/camper that is the most urgent tow project isn't too big... but it does have the e- brakes... apparently. The current owner says it comes in around 2K lbs. May not need the WD kit for that... but, as you say, it would be good to be prepared for anything..so I'll look through the e-trailer site.
As for the e-brake controller... is that something that you just interfaced into the brake light plug at the rear of your vehicle?
... I'll do more research for my specific truck (F350) re the controller.
With a F350 or E350 you may not need the WD setup but may need the sway control?
I would get the EBC if the trailer has elect. brakes.
What size ball does the trailer take, 2" or 2 5/16"?
As for the light & brake wiring you will need to get under the dash/truck and trace out anything it may have.
Worst thing is you pick up the T connector for the running turn/brake lights and run wire for the electric brakes down the frame rail all going to a connector matching the trailer.
Dave ----
Moving on...
Looking at wiring setups... I'm confused about how the 3 connectors at the end of the tow harness terminate into a single multipin connector.
I want to end up with a single 6 pin connector to accommodate all the usual stuff plus the electric trailer brakes. I'd also like to have the option to jumper to the 4-pin connector as well.
I'm not sure a T connector is what I'm looking for.
Recommendations?
I'm not sure about those unused connectors - at least one of those connectors would be for the factory tail/brake/reverse lights (it looks like you don't have a bed on the truck, so I assume no lights).
I used a connector like this for my truck https://www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-...id=19861172124 which does not require any wire splicing. But this setup may not be the correct one for you if you are using a trailer brake controller. My truck does not have the optional trailer wiring harness, so I used the adapter to get lights (only) for the trailer.
My project truck came with that "plug n play" wire less the flat 4 part.
My truck does not have a trailer harness or the electric brake controller or wiring. To me that is not a big deal as it will be (for me) easy to add them.
I think the OP will need to do a little checking on them wires to see if they are a factory trailer harness and if that plug under dash? is for trailer brakes and does it run all the way to the rear.
Dave - - - -
The brake controller mounts up under the dash. Those mystery wires, if they are trailering wires, will have some of the wiring you need for the brake controller. The brake controller needs a hot all the time from the battery, and ground directly to the battery, a blue wire going to the rear to hook up to the brakes, and another smaller wire going to the brake pedal arm switch. This truck brake light signal is what triggers the brake controller to apply the voltage to the trailer brakes via the blue wire.
There are many types of brake controllers. I have the cheapest kind, it is just a ramp timer. Press the brake, and it slowly applies more and more power to the trailer brakes, no matter how light or hard you are braking. It's a good reliable unit once you get used to it.
Then you have the ones that you need to level. They have a swinging pendulum inside that detects how hard you are stopping, and gives more or less juice to the trailer brakes.
And then they have the really fancy ones that have a electronic gizmo in them that detects how hard you are braking, and controls the voltage to the trailer brakes.
They all have a coarse adjustment for a heavily loaded trailer, a lightly loaded trailer, and a empty trailer.
Of the 3 "unused" plugs at the rear, the one with the Y-R/LG-BL/BLK wires...
is connected to the mystery plug under the dash...
... this looks to be the EBC harness. Just have to figure out the best place to mount the thing.
As for the other 3 wire connector, OR-LG/OR-BLK/PK, that must be the trailer tail lights, running and backup.
FuzzFace... I agree... might as well take advantage of the electronic brake function of the trailer and get the EBC... the trailer I'll be towing mates with a 2" ball. And thx for steering me to etrailer... makes this endeavor fairly affordable!
Mike (CB) ... I do have a bed... it's just been moved out of the way (just finished replacing the fuel tanks... so much easier without the bed!)
... and I assume you have this same connector for the T adaptor? (the one on the right in this photo)
the question I have is... how do I get all three of these plugs to mate with a single 7 pin connector? Is there a single adaptor for this purpose... or is it a slice and dice project? (not afraid of wiring work... I've spent 40 years building and working in recording studios
Slice and dice. If you want the best connection, solder the connections and then shrink wrap. The best shrink wrap is the stuff with the glue inside it.
I would get a testlight and verify everything before cutting and hooking it up.
You can take a ohmmeter and ring out the blue wire by touching it to ground.
I would see if one of those wires was hot under the dash, and also if one was hot when you pressed the brake. I don't know why, but all the brake controller instructions insist you run the white ground wire all the way to the battery. I just do it, so that is another wire you will have to run. If it ends up you don't have a hot wire under the dash, I just usually run another wire along with the ground to the battery, and put a 30 amp circuit breaker on the end and hook it to the battery +
I would then get the truck lights working, and verify the functions of the wires in the back, running lights and left and right turn/brake.
You also may want a trailer battery charge wire. If you can't find one, you can run one of those and hook it also to the 30 amp circuit breaker at the battery.
I bet this trailer is over 2000 lbs if it has trailer brakes. In my state you are not require to have trailer brakes unless you are 3500lbs and over. That is loaded or GVWR.
That controller you are looking at looks good. Try to mount it like they say in the instructions, and try to mount it where you can reach it. They all have a manual over ride that you can reach down and apply the trailer brakes by themselves manually. You will rarely use this feature but in a panic situation you will need to. The ability to apply the trailer brakes manually without applying the truck's brakes are what make electric trailer brakes 50 state legal, and surge brakes not legal, though boat trailers and u-haul still use surge brakes.
Slice and dice. If you want the best connection, solder the connections and then shrink wrap. The best shrink wrap is the stuff with the glue inside it.
I would get a testlight and verify everything before cutting and hooking it up.
You can take a ohmmeter and ring out the blue wire by touching it to ground.
I would see if one of those wires was hot under the dash, and also if one was hot when you pressed the brake. I don't know why, but all the brake controller instructions insist you run the white ground wire all the way to the battery. I just do it, so that is another wire you will have to run. If it ends up you don't have a hot wire under the dash, I just usually run another wire along with the ground to the battery, and put a 30 amp circuit breaker on the end and hook it to the battery +
I would then get the truck lights working, and verify the functions of the wires in the back, running lights and left and right turn/brake.
You also may want a trailer battery charge wire. If you can't find one, you can run one of those and hook it also to the 30 amp circuit breaker at the battery.
I bet this trailer is over 2000 lbs if it has trailer brakes. In my state you are not require to have trailer brakes unless you are 3500lbs and over. That is loaded or GVWR.
You know I don't get what Ford was thinking on the trailer brake wiring running a 2 brake light wire to the rear?
Most pick up the brake lights thru the left/right turn like the trucks lights are.
As said you will have to ping out the wires to see what they do.
1 of the connectors should be to the lights in the bed how many do you have left over?
I have not seen it brought up in the "trailer light harness" thread for part number(s) and thought it was just "A" front part but????
Now thinking being there should be a relay for trailer running lights, do you see this under the hood on the fire wall?, that then must run to the rear so wonder if they ran a trailer harness and did not tap into the trucks harness with a "T" connector like you can get and I will run and why you have the other plugs?
That then brings up what "pig tail" plugs into the other connectors that you can then run to a 7 pin trailer connector?
Any part numbers for the front harness and if a rear numbers for it?
Originally Posted by Franklin2
That controller you are looking at looks good. Try to mount it like they say in the instructions, and try to mount it where you can reach it. They all have a manual over ride that you can reach down and apply the trailer brakes by themselves manually. You will rarely use this feature but in a panic situation you will need to. The ability to apply the trailer brakes manually without applying the truck's brakes are what make electric trailer brakes 50 state legal, and surge brakes not legal, though boat trailers and u-haul still use surge brakes.
I like that controller, should work fine.
If you can and they have it get the wire adaptor from controller to the trucks wiring or a pig tail from controller to......
Yes mount it as per instructions and mount it to the right of the column so you don't keep hitting it getting in & out of the truck. Even on the right you may hit it but no where as much if on the left.
