Motor cut out while driving. it restarted once then died. Wrench light came on.. checked DTC, it was P2291... motor ran again for a few seconds and has refused to start since.

The Lift pump/ filter housing underneath the truck has a leak that was only noticed after it initially stopped running.

Fuel Filters were changed and weren't all that dirty when taken out a nice easy brown color, not to dark.

i tried keying the lift pump to prime the engine but nada... cracked open the fuel filter in the engine bay and the bowl was DRY

left the bowl open and primed the engine... i could hear gurgling but after 4 key on and offs no fuel ever made it to the bowl... i figured it would have made it by then...

put 5 gallons in the tank because it was showing low.

i can hear and feel the pump humming when i flip the key on.


any advice for this?

 

My train of thought (and please correct me if i'm not thinking right here) is that
IF i ran the tank empty and air locked the system... when i put 5 gallons in the tank shouldn't the lift pump have sucked some fuel out and started priming the line? If not can i pour some diesel down the upper filter in the engine bay and try to prime it that way?

how can i tell that even though the pump is making noise and humming that its even pumping?

 

its not clear to me if this is a diesel...im going to assume yes since mentioned is being made of two filters , one in the engine bay.

do not operate the engine if this is a 6.4 , until you resolve the fuel flow problem....a HPFP could go bad if ran dry, since the fuel is the lube.

air in the system is possible if ran dry...more so if you changed the under chasis filter and did not use a motorcraft filter...motorcraft filters have a air bleed hole.

if ran dry, and if a diesel, gunk could be clogging your tank screen. the gunk is from years of accumulated gelling, algae, etc.

if you have a 6.4, most models have what looks like an air valve in the engine bay..located near the brake fluid tank...look for the fuel cooler and the fitting is on top of it. have someone key but not to start...and while keyed..but not attempting to start...press the air fitting pin with a key tip to bleed all the air out.

proceed with caution to prevent damage to your HPFP if a 6.4

 

youre refering to the schreader valve on the fuel cooler with the grey cap... ive pressed this in as well... but again correct me if im wrong, with the filter in the engine bay OPEN, wouldnt fuel hit the fuel filter before the cooler?

 

im talking about removing air in the system

you are looking for evidence of fuel flow.

there's a few YouTube videos that show how to drain your fuel tank using your lift pump...it involves disconnecting 1 hose...if you get pressurized fuel doing that...go back to the "get all the air out" mission.

if you don't get pressurized fuel from the lift pump...then your back to defective pump ( check power to the pump to rule out fuse/ cut off switch)...clogged filter...clogged pick screen in tank...etc

 

roger that

checked the two connectors to pump, confirmed which was power by disconnecting and hearing pump **** off. That had 12vDc

the other connector not to sure of its function but it had 4.5vDc roughly

ill YouTube bleeding videos and see what I can find thanks for the responses 😊

 

Okay, so I took the HFCM out completely, opened it up (already ordered a complete gasket kit for it)

first I took the bleeder valve plate off, popped the washers out and found the bottom one was barely seated because of a building up on a hard enamel like substance which I scraped out and now it's squeaky clean.
Secomd i I took the cover plate off to reveal the chambers behind. Immediately noticed the gasket was torn at the top. Explains the drip I have. Next I notice the bottom most chamber had some gel like crud in there, wasn't packed but it was definitely there. Cleaned all that out. Next I noticed the check valve, so I tested it out by blowing air thru the fees line from the tank and them sucking air from the tube, it appeared the check valve was doing its job only allowing one flow direction.

Thirdly I took the pump out, noticed the metal outside was kinda pitted up with some surface rust, honestly looked fairly normal for a 9 year old pump having seen plenty of gas engine fuel pumps look the same.

Put it all new gaskets and sealed it up for a bench test
ran a tube to the inlet tube and positioned a bucket to catch the outlet tube... I didn't put anything on the return tubes. Submerge the inlet tube in about a gallon of diesel. Applied 12v and waited... fuel never came...

guess I've identified my problem being a bad pump... I already ordered an air dog II 165, being so sure that problem was just the pump which it all points to it. So thank you for your advice and once I get it in I'll post an update and sorry for the long posts but I figure a detailed post might help someone else troubleshoot a similar problem.

~Matt

 

About th air dog....

love ve it so not bashing it...

i have one....

there are are different models of these things which basically just represent new stock, old stock, older stock.

my reseller swore up and down that the model he had was the one I needed.....

yoy basicakly can can get multiple versions to work on any truck so there is really this model is the only model that will work for you..

the problem is is if you don't get the latest version...the 4g....you are basically getting old stock...,

the airdog one has some issues wilth the deal between the motor and the pump...seal gives...fuel gets into pump and pump shorts out.

the air dog two has a suction problem and there's confusion about straw length vs use stock straw vs use the wiz bang airdog straw...the real andwer is to use the beans brand dump attachment.

since I have an airdog one( not of my choosing) with the potential seal problem...I ran my airdog between the tank and the stock lift pump.....that way I get the water and air separation while at the same time get redundant pumps. You can pop the fuse for either pump and the truck runs fine.

if you call airdog they will provide you filtervcross references....but most importantly info about a 10 micron filter which is better for cold weather.

some resellers offer a fuel heater for the air dog.

and, check your warranty card....it says if you don't mail it in your lifetime warranty becomes a 1 year warranty. Card only collects basic info so it's a pretty heavy penalty for a minor admin detail.

 

Hey guys, I just finished the installation of the AIRDOG II 4G, not too difficult but definitely involves some patience and self restraint from torching the truck. Bled the fuel system from the schreader valve on the cooler in the engine bay, took a minute of cranking after that and it started up and ran smooth.

The little wrench on the dash display went away. So next logical step is to go into the DTC and erase the code out of the computer.


to my surprise I found 2 extra DTCs, a p0269 and forgot the other code but they both said thing "p0269 cyl 3 + 8 injector circuit contribution/balance fault"

truck seems to idle nicely but it seems on start up that it takes abbot longer than it did before to start up. I cleared the DTC codes but the p0269 keeps coming back...

anyone rlse experience this?

 

Congrats on the airdog

the contribution balance codes could be

just dirty injectors - run some diesel injector cleaner thru it

could be a couple of worn rocker tips-had that code and a few tips were bare metal

could be a few bent push rods- out of 16, 12 of mine were bent. Roll them on a glass surface and you can spot bent ones.

could also be a lifter issue- could be oil is too thin to pressurize the lifters ...especially if you run 5w40

id start with the injector clean. I opened the engine fuel filter on mine and poured a few ounces in, recapped it, started it up for a few minutes, repeat a few times tip you use up the bottle.

if you here intake poping then more likely rocker tips.

 

thanks for answering so promptly! I'll start with the injector cleaner. Anything to stay away from or is any brand name diesel cleaner a solid choice?

 

I think they all use the same active ingredient

I used Lucas's deseil clean

bought 2 bottles

1 got poured a few oz's at a time into the engine bay filter, the other went into the tank.

fyi, bds sells a heater for the airdog for winter time use and the are also 15 micron filters for winter use if you are in the deep cold

 

Airdog filters




Here are the filters that can be used without modification to your airdog:

Fuel Water Separator

Baldwin BF1275

Seperates 99% of free water and 96.5% of emulsified water at 120 GPH




Secondary Fuel Filter

Donaldson P551315

3 micron absolute

99% efficient at 90 GPHHere are the filters that can be used without modification to your airdog:

Fuel Water Separator

Baldwin BF1275

Seperates 99% of free water and 96.5% of emulsified water at 120 GPH




Secondary Fuel Filter

Donaldson P551315

3 micron absolute

99% efficient at 90 GPH







also the Donaldson ELF7349 oil filter It's a 15 micron @ 99.9%

 

Update:

bought a a gallon of Lucas diesel fuel treatment/ injector cleaner...

dumped about 3/4 of a quart in the tank and a 1/4 of a quart in the filter housing in the engine bay... little trouble starting up... let it idle for a bit, took it to gas station tipped fuel off drive around a bit and WALLA no more DTC and the engine now starts nice and fast as it had before I had this issue...

tha k you for the filters information, I've already written it down... one last question before I hopefully close this thread down...

how often should I be putting this treatment stuff into the fuel? And should I be doing something similar for the oil or any other fluids?