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1993 E350 RV Ignition Switch Replacement and Rekey / Recode

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1993 E350 RV Ignition Switch Replacement and Rekey / Recode

  #1  
Old 07-31-2017, 12:43 PM
mikeinri
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1993 E350 RV Ignition Switch Replacement and Rekey / Recode

Hey guys,

Just got done replacing a broken ignition switch over the weekend, thought I'd share some info and things I learned, to help anyone else dealing with this...

First, got the new switch at Advanced, but you can get them anywhere.

Removal and replacement was a piece of cake. Disconnect the battery (negative), and follow this: https://youtu.be/lrjkvDOEIaQ

I wanted to recode / rekey the new switch to use my old key (since it also works on the doors). This was much harder to find info on. I couldn't find any videos showing this vintage of cylinder, and it wasn't obvious to me how to remove the tumblers. Then I found this:
http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/23-technical-write-ups/128285-ignition-lock-cylinder-rekeying-2.html#/topics/128285

The pics are fuzzy but show the steps to follow. Basically, you disassemble the old and new ignition switches, and carefully lay out the tumblers so you swap them over in the proper order. There are limitless videos out there showing how to do this for any type or age of lock.

​​​​​​A few things I would mention:

Don't remove the sidebar (not necessary, and helps to have it in place when inserting the tumblers).

Be sure that the cover for the tumblers is very flat after you reinstall. I got my new switch jammed up because I didn't make this part flat enough. You want to be sure that no part of it sticks out of the cavity it's in. This is a thin metal part, and bends and distorts when you pry it out.

Be careful of the two pins and springs in the cylinder. These are needed to help the switch stay in the off position.

Hope this helps someone!

Mike
 
  #2  
Old 10-08-2018, 10:14 AM
mikeinri
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Ugh, this replacement switch lasted just over a year. Same problem as the old switch: outer ring spins, key doesn't.

I'd​​​​ bought the cheapest one from Advance ($17), and although it has a lifetime warranty, I'll be buying a better one (closer to $50), because this is not only a nuisance, but I'm afraid of being stranded somewhere with this thing.

I may ask around to see if I can get a locksmith to rekey it for me before installing. May be worth just buying one from the locksmith, and having them install it?

Mike
 
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Old 10-08-2018, 01:33 PM
mikeinri
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Of course, the real question is, what makes these break in this way? Outer ring/tabs spin free from key.

Mike
 
  #4  
Old 10-24-2018, 11:33 PM
mikeinri
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Tried to find a local locksmith with a retail store, no luck. I don't want to pay for a road service trip, so I rekeyed it myself. The old tumbler pins do appear to be worn, but seem to work just fine.

Interestingly, the old lock not only had a loose outer ring, but seemed to hang up a little when turning. Maybe that was the root cause, and the loose ring was the result of the hanging up. Hopefully, that wasn't caused by the worn pins (I doubt it, as the new lock seems to work great with the old key).

I'll try to get it back into the RV tomorrow night. Looks like camping season is over for the year, so I'm not in a rush to get it done before the weekend.

Mike
 
  #5  
Old 10-25-2018, 05:43 AM
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Originally Posted by mikeinri View Post
Of course, the real question is, what makes these break in this way? Outer ring/tabs spin free from key.
Mike
I'd bet this is your biggest issue \/ \/ \/

Originally Posted by mikeinri View Post
First, got the new switch at Advanced, but you can get them anywhere.
Just relating my own experience with replacing key cylinders going cheap "just because it fits......." is not the best move. I've used OEM parts to great success and within the past year came across these guys on eBay: Ford Lock Cylinders

Good write up but IMHO using bargain bin parts tends to bite one in the **** nearly every time.
 
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