Snapped Pushrods
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New User
Joined: Jul 2017
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From: South GA
Snapped Pushrods
Recently bought a 1969 F-250 Ranger with a 390 in it. After dealing with some electrical issues I got it up and running but noticed a ticking in the engine. Also the truck was not idling well. I've pulled the valve covers and found 2 completely snapped and 1 bent pushrod. The rocker arms are slightly worn but not too bad. The problem is the 2 snapped pushrods have dropped down where I can't get to them? Is there any way to get them out without pulling the intake manifold, it looks extremely heavy and I don't have a hoist. Or should I just open it up anyway to check for collateral damage? I have started taking out the bolts but am having trouble pulling the distributor, any suggestions for un-sticking it?
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New User
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From: South GA
It was only down for a day. It ran and ticked a little when I bought it but I had to drive 100 miles to get home, then it had some fuel pump, carb, and alt issues which I fixed. I'll try the magnet, I was just worried about stray pieces or lifter damage since they snapped completely. I'm not sure how cylinders are numbered but its the 2nd pushrod from the front on the passenger side and the 2nd pushrod from the back on the driver side.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 4,831
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From: Minnesota
Sounds like the pushrods could have broken some time ago. Does the engine seem to have the same power as when you drove it home? If so, then those were broken when you bought it.
Try the magnet and if you have an Autozone near you see if they have an inspection camera you can borrow. That way you can see what you are trying to get. You can also verify that the lifters are still in their bores.
Second, try tapping the top of the valve on the three with pushrod issues. You want to see if the valves are stuck before installing new pushrods.
Once the new pushrods are installed, crank the engine over by hand to verify everything is operating smoothly.
Lastly do a compression test to see if the rest of the engine is OK. You should have at least 115psi on each cylinder and they shouldn't vary much more than 10psi to each other.
I hope this is all you need to do.
Try the magnet and if you have an Autozone near you see if they have an inspection camera you can borrow. That way you can see what you are trying to get. You can also verify that the lifters are still in their bores.
Second, try tapping the top of the valve on the three with pushrod issues. You want to see if the valves are stuck before installing new pushrods.
Once the new pushrods are installed, crank the engine over by hand to verify everything is operating smoothly.
Lastly do a compression test to see if the rest of the engine is OK. You should have at least 115psi on each cylinder and they shouldn't vary much more than 10psi to each other.
I hope this is all you need to do.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 101
Likes: 2
From: Idaho
Just push down on the valve stem with a piece of wood. Cylinders are numbered from the front to the rear, passenger side is 1234, driver side 5678.
Don't push on the spring retainer you could knock the valve keepers loose...
Don't push on the spring retainer you could knock the valve keepers loose...
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2009
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From: Minnesota
What Glen said. Right on-top of the valve stem. If you have a small plastic or hard rubber mallet or push down with a piece of wood. The only reason I suggest tapping the valve is you get an audible response. Do all of them so you know how they feel or sound.
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New User
Joined: Jul 2017
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From: South GA
They are all moving except the one with the snapped pushrod on cylinder #8. The spark plug is very black and wet on that one too. I was able to get one of the snapped pushrods out with the magnet but the other one is laying flat down there and I can't get it out so I'm pulling the intake manifold anyway. I assume from reading other threads that I'm going to have to pull the heads to check them too if the valve is stuck. Any general advice on this process?
Before this week my most advanced mechanical procedure was a brake bleed...
Before this week my most advanced mechanical procedure was a brake bleed...
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 4,831
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From: Minnesota
So what did you do to check them? Did you push down or tap? If you tapped try hitting it a little harder. At this point you can't hurt it anymore. If it does move, you can then spray penetrating oil at it and keep working it.
There is a possibility the valve is bent and that's why its not moving. I wish I was closer to lend a hand. If you have to pull the heads, I would try and find a set of heads already done like these,
PAIR OF Ford FE 1958-1976 HEADs 352 360 390 C1AE | eBay
There is a possibility the valve is bent and that's why its not moving. I wish I was closer to lend a hand. If you have to pull the heads, I would try and find a set of heads already done like these,
PAIR OF Ford FE 1958-1976 HEADs 352 360 390 C1AE | eBay
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
Likes: 10
From: **** hole San Jose ca.
A close inspection is needed as these heads our being pulled down.
A High mileage motor can have the valves stems wear on one side unless it has the oem exh. rotators that may cause the worn step to catch an bind an bending the push rods.
Also kind of egg shaping the guide, if at a higher rpm may cause the valve to turn that could cause the valve stem to lock up in the guide.
A simple test is really noticeable after the valve spring has been removed an just turning each valve by hand 360*. This should be done any time the old valve are reused.
Since the exh valves get the hottest I'd replace them if the engine has over 75k.
For me I only have SS valves installed.
Orich
A High mileage motor can have the valves stems wear on one side unless it has the oem exh. rotators that may cause the worn step to catch an bind an bending the push rods.
Also kind of egg shaping the guide, if at a higher rpm may cause the valve to turn that could cause the valve stem to lock up in the guide.
A simple test is really noticeable after the valve spring has been removed an just turning each valve by hand 360*. This should be done any time the old valve are reused.
Since the exh valves get the hottest I'd replace them if the engine has over 75k.
For me I only have SS valves installed.
Orich
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 2,350
Likes: 7
From: Garland, Tx
2x with the wood. You keep smacking them with a hammer, your going to mushroom a valve or worst yet, pop the valve keepers and your next thread is going to be "how do I fix a dropped valve"
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New User
Joined: Jul 2017
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From: South GA
Okay, so far all I've done is tapped them with a rubber mallet to verify that one is stuck. I will try penetrating oil to un-stick it then go from there. I do have the Ford manual so my plan was to follow there step by step for removing and repairing the valve.
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