which is better?
which is better?
Rabbit-Hole Researcher
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 466
Likes: 6
From: Middle of Ohio
Definitely the 3G alternators are better. The regulator is smooth and long-lasting. Better for new accessories and electronics. There is one or two 'internal' fans, plus the outside one. They continue putting out higher currents even after extended times and higher temps. The diode heatsink is better, and there are replacements that are supposed to be extremely good.
Avoid the re-wound high-output aftermarket ones. They only work better at higher RPMs, and work worse at low Rs where we drive. Chrome and 'one-wire' are less desirable. You want the sensor wire going up under the dash, to sense voltage after resistance between the battery, and the headlight switch. (See topics on web.)
You may want a two-groove pulley. Cold-weather squeal can be a minor annoyance for a second or two. You can run it tighter as the belt stretches at the beginning.
Get the red plastic B+ insulating elbow to move the connection outboard, and give more clearance on the backside.
Cooling air goes in the back. I made a heat shield plate to go behind the alternator, so it breathes the cooler air in front, rather than the air off the exhaust manifold. It was a Las Vegas mod, for very high temps, so consider this extra.
Make two fusible links. Use the flame-proof fusible link wire. There is a formula for the wire size/length, but I don't have it handy. The expensive fuses are silly in my opinion. They are sized too large to avoid surge-pops, but you don't want that in the alternator-to-battery connection.
After this, you may put your headlights on relays, with short and heavy wires more directly. In any case, you will love the brighter lights all over the truck.
Avoid the re-wound high-output aftermarket ones. They only work better at higher RPMs, and work worse at low Rs where we drive. Chrome and 'one-wire' are less desirable. You want the sensor wire going up under the dash, to sense voltage after resistance between the battery, and the headlight switch. (See topics on web.)
You may want a two-groove pulley. Cold-weather squeal can be a minor annoyance for a second or two. You can run it tighter as the belt stretches at the beginning.
Get the red plastic B+ insulating elbow to move the connection outboard, and give more clearance on the backside.
Cooling air goes in the back. I made a heat shield plate to go behind the alternator, so it breathes the cooler air in front, rather than the air off the exhaust manifold. It was a Las Vegas mod, for very high temps, so consider this extra.
Make two fusible links. Use the flame-proof fusible link wire. There is a formula for the wire size/length, but I don't have it handy. The expensive fuses are silly in my opinion. They are sized too large to avoid surge-pops, but you don't want that in the alternator-to-battery connection.
After this, you may put your headlights on relays, with short and heavy wires more directly. In any case, you will love the brighter lights all over the truck.
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