When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
got my new generator the the other day so I installed that, polarized it etc. started truck And it ran terrible, I knew The points needed changed so I did that. The old ones were fried. Changed points according to a couple of videos online and info here, truck won't start. Re did everything like 5 times and I have no spark. My guess is I just did something stupid or am overlooking something simple. Anyone have any advice for me to start with? I have the ground wire under the points right now and could not remember the configuration of the hot and condenser wire so I'm hoping that has something to do with it. Thank you!
I changed the condenser and I did adjust on the high side of the lobe. There's no spark at all and if hadn't just started the truck before hand I would think it was coil related so in turn the only thing I can think of is something to do with the condenser and hot wire which I didn't 100 percent remember how it was before I re assembled
The ground wire goes under the screw that holds the points down.
the hot and ground go together at the points. If you can, use an ohm meter to make sure that the points are not grounding before you attach the ground wire.
Re-install the old condenser, that worked before, or one from the junkbox for test purposes, made before 1980 say.
I get confused with POS/NEG ground. It's the positive wire that is connected from the + terminal on the coil to the points, and is grounded when the points close. A test light or continuity tester should show this.
Pull the coil wire from the distributor, the terminal end should jump at least 1/2" to a good ground during crank, with a bright fat bluish spark. If this works OK, but then there is still no spark at the plugs when coil wire is reinstalled in the distributor cap, then there is a problem with the rotor, cap, plug wires, plugs, etc.
Dumb question but the hot and the condenser plug go together on the points right? And does it matter a washer separates them or not? I put the ground wire under the points at the hole nearest He motor like it was. Gonna try the other condenser now and see if I get anywhere
As long as the washer isn't a nylon or fiber (non-conductive) one, no problem. Make sure there are non-conductive washers where they are needed. That's usually between the spring that goes to the point on the arm and the base of the points (steel). The screw that holds the wire from the coil, the condenser and the spring to the point must be insulated from the base too. This is GM, but similar
Use a small screwdriver to open and close the points while the ignition is on. If the points are working, you will see a spark as they open.
well I did this test after changing The condenser back to what was in it and I finally have spark. Didn't start it because I have to go to work but I'll try it later. Thanks for the help hopefully it was just hecho en Mexico carquest condenser. I have one from autozone that was made here that will stay in there he glove box. I'll report back later
truck starts. Idles ok runs really rough when give it throttle so I think the timing is still off plus could have a vacuum issue maybe. Going to try to get it in time tomorrow and see where that leaves me. One plug wire ripped so I'll replace that too. Thanks for the help guys I was really losing patience and that stupid condenser was the problem
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
