So I ordered this and I want to get a better filter as well. I heard mixed stuff about k&n. But heard also under high boost my filter can collapse because the box is a poor design. Now I have a factory turbo set up with the wastegate plugged (prevuous owner did this) I have been running the truck for a year. Never an issue. I'm guessing the turbo is only capable of 15 max psi but I also know that 11 12 psi is as high as I want to drive safely. So what psi rating will collapse that filter? And I want opinions on the k&n filter from experience. Or any idea of a higher flow filter that works good. And also I have no boost gauge yet. I plan on buying some pillar gauges within the next month or 2.

 

If the filter is clean its fine. Never heard of them collapsing, but any filter will if dirty enough. AFE makes their Pro dry filter that fits the factory filter housing for NA and turbo applications.

 

If you are running a K&N or K&N knock-off filter(cotton), make sure to use the "charger oil". They recommend a small amount of the oil, because too much "could" mess with intake air sensors.
As /we don't have any sensors in the intake/, use *plenty* of the oil on the filter. The more oil, the better it will trap dirt and keep it out of the engine.

The problem with K&N filters is that the holes in the media are larger than, say, a paper filter... so they can let dust through. This is why, if you want to run one, make sure it's well-oiled.

Also, I've never had any issues with air filters imploding on an IDI, even absolutely filthy ones.
And yes, I do push my IDIs to 12-15 PSI of boost.
This includes both the factory turbo box-type filters, as well as various (non-internally-supported) cheap cone-style filters that I use on Banks turbo kits.


Honestly, though... Keep the ford(ats) air box. It's actually a really good design, and paper air filters are reasonably priced. Replace them when they get dirty, and add a cold-air intake to the intake of the filter if you want, but leave it.
(If I can get 250 RWHP out of one of those boxes with a stock filter and not have any issues, you shouldn't have any at the 150-200 RWHP level you can get out of a stock IP, depending on how much you've turned it up)

 

how are you getting 250 rwhp? I'm very interested.

 

he has a built engine.

 

In my '93(truck in my avatar):
A stock 7.3 non-turbo block, with a Ford turbo setup on it.... And a RD2-110 IP on it.

That's pretty much all I did to this truck to make it. Bought it for $1950, Bolted my (oversized) IP on it, timed it, and took it to the dyno.

So far, I haven't blown any gaskets, despite no headstuds... though sooner or later it'll probably need a set of gaskets - I kind of overheated it a bit when my serpentine belt tensioner just... snapped back in February, and I had to limp it 3 miles down the road with no water pump. At 32F or so outside temps.
I saw coolant 'traces' coming down the block in multiple places from the head gasket right after that... and then nothing. It re-sealed itself apparently - No coolant leaks, I'm not using appreciable amounts of coolant, and the oil isn't turning milky either.


Not my '93(aside from the IP). I went that route on my '88, having it rebuilt(the shop screwed it up)... and I *still* never saw over 250 at the wheels out of it!

Pretty sure that the key to getting more than 250 at the wheels is a bigger turbo - the stock-type turbos(banks/ats/hypermax) simply can't handle more than that.

 

Well I installed my new hypermax cowl induction. This is my review. Firstly I'm a tech in a dealer and if been working on cars my whole life. Yeah I ask a lot of questions in these forums about my truck because just like everyone im not an expert on everything and I like to learn and ask questions and see opinions. Anyway it is supposed to be a quick easy instal and hust cut a hole in the firewall which isn't very hard. So I took the plastic cowl and tried to place it in its location to see how it fit. It almost doesn't fit at all I had to really squeeze into it's spot. I drew a line withba marker and removed it so I could cut the hole. I then drilled the little holes for the screws and then I wanted to see how the hose fit the cowl. What an event that was. It's such a tight fit it took me and another tech (who has been working on cars for 30+ years) 20 minutes to get it on and it's was such a struggle it almost ripped the hose. The directions say it fits right over the cowl and air box opening and doesn't require clamps to hold it. Well that's accurate about the clamps but wow what a even getting it on the cowl. Then I tried to get it on the air box. Even worse since the opening in box is so close to the valve cover it was horrible to get the hose on. Took me 30 minutes. And it's not even on that well. I had to use a life of tape to ensure it wouldn't come off because I had no clamps. And it started to rip. Now I need to say I made sure when I ordered it it was for the turbo model. My truck is a 93 7.3 idi with a factory turbo. Anyway then I used the sticky putty around the hole on fire wall that's ment to seal the cowl. Now I'm done. What i read in reviews is the turbo sometimes gets louder since it's pulling more air. For me that's false. I don't mind anyway. That's not why i bought it. Also it's supposed to have bettwr acceleration. My acceleration is identical to before. So no benefit for me there. And lastly it's supposed to lower egts. I can not review that because I do not have the guage yet. And even wen I get one I don't wanna hook the stock hose up and compare. And honestly I'm regretting any repair that involves removing my new hose cuz I'll probly throw it out cuz it was such a horrible event getting it on. I sort of wish I didn't buy it. I debated it for 9 months and finally bite the bullet and I'm disappointed all around. I'm glad others found it great. For myself I found no difference in anything. And the installation was a nightmare I can't stress enough. I even read the directions 5 times to ensure I wasn't missing something. And the directions are as simple as it gets. I'm not bashing the product at all. I'm just telling my experiences. Please inform me if I did something wrong. I'm always up for suggestions. Every day is learning experience in some sort of way.

 

I'm curious in a comparison of EGT vs the factory plumbing up by the rad support and vs engine bay temps. I noticed a roughly 50*-100* EGT drop while towing up steep grades with the factory ducting attached vs drawing warmer engine bay air.

If pulling from the cowl does better I may go that route. If the same as factory ducting, I still may go that route as I anticipate when I install an intercooler there will no longer be room for the factory cool air ducting.

I see no reason to expect a power or MPG increase with pulling from the cowl vs the factory location.

 

 

when I get my gauges I'll post what my readings are. I mean I would expect somewhat better throttle response considering the fact of pulling more air easily vs the factory tube. I also tried this with my stock filter and then after a test drive put my new k&n in to compare and my results performance wise were the same. So the hypermax total cost me 112 shipped. And the k&n cost me 53. So I'm 160 into it for no performance differences other than the fact I can not tell what My egts are. My pump is also turned up also. I didn't do it but when I give it lots of throttle u can barely see it in the mirrpr. Which from my research that's a comfortable place to be for smoke.

 

honestly the for over booster was east for me to get over. It was real tight but what ever the hose on other hand my word that would of stopped me from buying it. I debated buying it for 9 months and I finally did it and wished I didn't just cuz of the awful fit overall. Some guys have no issues but not me lol all problems and no benefits at all that i can notice

 

Search function on here is a beauty. Theres been a few people say that the cowl is overrated. The factory cold air intake does a dandy job. Even justin with his fancy air box didnt see any gains over the factory intake. Even though wix rates the filter at 125 cfm, ford and ATS apparently did their homework. Ive read enough to be convinced that the "soup bowl mod" is detrimental to power even.

 

No reason to expect a performance improvement. I believe the factory intake ducting flow more than a 7.3 will use at 3600 RPM. You haven't removed any restriction, only potentially lowered intake air temp.

 

Cad, i think the big assumption there is the cowl is higher pressure than the grille.

 

Well it has to be sucking more air. The mouth of it is twice the size of the factory one and cowl design always is easier to pull the air vs the factory one that is 1 inch high opening under the front of the hood. I tow here and there so of it help drop egt temps I'll be fine with it.